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Old 13-01-2015, 17:24   #16
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Re: Stripping lifelines

Remember that once you have used bare wire, Dyneema is quite problematic. In fact, all of the documented Dyneema failures were as a direct result of race boats going from bare wire with rail meat grinding it into the stanchions, to rail meat grinding the Dyneema on the burrs.

If switching from bare wire (or really anything, to be safe) it is IMPERATIVE that holes be polished. A chafe guard is a good idea too (NE rope makes a very durable Dyneema cover). Better yet, no rail meat.
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Old 13-01-2015, 17:51   #17
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Re: Stripping lifelines

If you plan to race, be aware that (after being previously approved) Dyneema lifelines have been once again prohibited for certain categories of race. Look at the latest U.S. Sailing and OSF rules.

I switched over to bare 1x19 stainless lifelines, but before pulling the coated lifelines I stripped off a few feet of the old plastic coating, using a knife and a "shaving" motion. The plastic was still pretty new, so I had no problem taking it off. I discovered that the stainless had surface corrosion, and some of the fine wires were in bad shape. I would not have wanted to depend on that 7x7 stripped wire. The 1x19 wire has held up great for ten years now, and it looks good for at least a few years more.
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Old 13-01-2015, 20:37   #18
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Re: Stripping lifelines

I went with 1/19 wire replacement. To fill the gap in the stanchions I just split a piece of fuel line hose lengthwise, slipped it over the 1/19 and tucked it into the stanchion holes after lubeing with dish detergent. They tuck in tight if you get the proper size and you'll never hear your lifelines thrumming in a strong breeze.
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