Starboard Backing Plates

[Benjamaphone]

We do all kinds of backing plates out of cast Almag 35 (aluminum-magnesium). This eliminates corrosion from the SS nuts/bolts and is much stronger, and often lighter, than many polycarbonates, let alone regular aluminum. We carry backing plates from 6"x6" all the way up to 12"x16" all by about 1/2" thick. These get used for mounting cranes and davits off the transom of powerboats so they are well strong. Send me a private message for more info.
I have worked with StarBoard in the past and find it is much more useful as an engine room cover, etc. It is easy to work with and does not melt when you cut it.

[GordMay]

Originally Posted by rtbates

Gorilla Glue will glue it and most anything else you can imagine

Gorrilla Glue is just a Polyurethane adhesive, not unlike (but not as good as) 3M "5200".
It does, what it does.

[Farlander]

You guys are tripping, starboard is fine as backing plate. Better than what was there before and definitely better than plywood, golly.

I want to know can I use 5" thick staboard 12"x12" as a mast step for my Morgan 41 OI?? It's about 40% the cost of G10.

[mlydon]

Best backing plate is g-10 plate - stiff, tough, bonds well, corrosion proof....

https://www.jamestowndistributors.co...ct-detail/8758

Matt

[Jammer]

For heavy loads, I use G-10 backing plates with stainless steel fender washers. I would not use starboard for that.

[Knotical]

Zombie thread

Originally Posted by Farlander

You guys are tripping, starboard is fine as backing plate. Better than what was there before and definitely better than plywood, golly.

I want to know can I use 5" thick staboard 12"x12" as a mast step for my Morgan 41 OI?? It's about 40% the cost of G10.

[alaskanviking]

For the love of the gods don't use starboard or plastic sheeting as a backing plate. Starboard compressed and can crack with the right load. Hardware can pull through it with enough force.

Aluminum is ok, yes there is a dissimilar metal issue with stainless or hardware. But it will last longer than starboard. I wouldn't use aluminum for a structural item like a cleat.

Stainless backing plates is better. Stainless can be a pain to drill. Slowest speed (100-200rpm is ideal) you can get your drill to go with high pressure, and cutting fluid. I pulse my hand drill with slow speeds, seems to help. Going full bore on stainless will harden it and overheat your bits losing temper and dulling them permanently.

Some people use hard wood with fender washers. Depends on Circumstances. Wood rots, and this isn't a permanent solution.

G10 is the best I think. Structural epoxy plate that's cured at high heat and at pressure. You can drill and tap this stuff. You can work it like wood, but I find it's similar to metal and you need to go slow with pressure. It's an abrasive so it will do a number on bits, and sawteeth, router bits. Carbide stuff will last a bit but it will all dull eventually. Go full speed and watch you saw blade glow red hot. You can Epoxy it into the correct spot for a permanent solution. Round or 45 the edges so it doesn't make a hard spot. Be careful sanding this stuff you don't want to breath it in. I have a Milwaukee mini metal band saw on a stand that works excellent with this stuff. Doesn't rot, waterproof. Serious strength. Expensive. but reasonable and comparable to the other materials. I love G10 wouldn't recommend anything else. I use it for all my backing plates

[SeaStory]

Another vote for G10.