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Old 06-03-2013, 20:51   #1
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standing rigging replacement

hey all, just wondering how many people have replaced their standing rigging without dropping the mast.
The mast, mast steps, spreaders and everything else is showing no signs of corrosion at all. I currently have 10mm gal wire that has surface rust on it, and am looking at going to stainless 10mm with eyes up top and possibly using a mechanical fitting such as sta lok or norseman at deck level. the mast is 15m and deck stepped, and im planning on using halyards to support the mast as i work through it.

I know a lot of people are going to tell me to drop the mast, but I am looking to hear from people who have done this with the mast standing.

I was going to start with the 4 lowers, then the 2 intermediates, 2 uppers, then the backstays and lastly the inner and fore stays.

Any tips or advice from people who have done this before would be greatly appreciated. Cheers all, Luke
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Old 06-03-2013, 20:54   #2
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Re: standing rigging replacement

We're in the process of a full rerig with our mast still up. Just finished replacing the bowsprit and bobstays, looking to to do the forward stays and start the side chainplates this weekend. With the bowsprit off we had to remove both forward stays at once. To compensate I rigged a bridle through the hawse holes and secured the jib halyard to it and secured the staysail halyard to the our big front deck cleats. Had no problems so far.
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Old 06-03-2013, 21:01   #3
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Re: standing rigging replacement

!x19 does not like to bend around a thimble unless it's really really large diameter. I'd go with Norseman/StaLok on both ends if you are going to use 1x19. 7x19 and 7x7 are quite stretchy though more pliable.

I rigged my current boat with the stick in place. Took down one stay at a time and used a halyard to replace it. For the lowers, don't think you have to do one at a time. Probably could do all 4 at one time or one on each side at the same time. I did the uppers first and then the lowers.
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Old 06-03-2013, 22:42   #4
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Re: standing rigging replacement

Luke,

You have three issues you need to address.

1) there is a large strength difference between galvanized steel and stainless. 10mm sounds like a reasonable size for your boat, but you may want to check with a competent rigger, or find the original specs on the boat before you make the switch.

2) eyes are a pretty terrible idea for wire. To maintain anything like full strength the bend radius needs to be 40:1, so you would really need to use 40mm thimbles. Any tighter bend will result in a weaker stay.

3) doing it mast up... It's possible by doing one wire at a time, but it takes a long time and when you get to the upper wires gets pretty dangerous. It is possible to lose a rig doing this, and frankly having someone up the rig were it to come down is a guaranteed major hospital bill. Unless you really can't get the rig down, I would highly recommend against trying it. Plus while it is down is a great time do inspect all the fittings, spreaders, sheaves, ect. And re-wire the lights and antennas.


Since it looks like you are going to be doing a full rerig anyway I would really recommend calling John at Colligio Marine and talk to him about redoing the boat with synthetics.
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Old 06-03-2013, 23:24   #5
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Re: standing rigging replacement

I did dyneema lifelines this past summer to learn how to do my splices and familiarize myself. Much cheaper and easier than trying to do it in stainless where I do not have the tools and also, self repair or replacement is easy. Was a test to learn so that I will feel confident doing my standing rigging. It is great stuff.
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Old 27-03-2013, 21:04   #6
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Re: standing rigging replacement

Starting the rigging next week, will let you all know how it goes
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Old 27-03-2013, 22:05   #7
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Re: standing rigging replacement

I replaced all mine, never took the mast off. I actually have taken the mast off, but that was for fixing the mast. Just replace one at a time. If you pop your backstay or forestay, run a halyard and crank tight. Not insane tight, but tight.

The lowers will honestly keep it in place. Support the boom when you pop the forestay.
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Old 28-03-2013, 00:19   #8
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Replaced all ours with the mast up. Riggers do it so why not.
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Old 28-03-2013, 00:58   #9
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Re: standing rigging replacement

You can take all the lowers off at the same time, but for the uppers you may consider backup halyards for the removed stays doing only one or two at a time.

I used dynemma I highly recommend this over stainless, but galv is a good choice as well.
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Old 28-03-2013, 01:09   #10
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Re: standing rigging replacement

Hi Catalpa I have just replaced my main mast rigging with mast up and I used a pro rigger. It is no ploblem just use halyard etc as mentioned above.
I am in Bluewater Marina so if you want to chat or even come over for coffee and chat PM and we can get to gether good luck Cheers Jacko
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Old 28-03-2013, 21:45   #11
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Re: standing rigging replacement

If you have more time than money, then replacing with mast up is the way to go. Friend of mine just did a Beneteau First 38 while on a mooring. I'd much prefer being at a dock for that job but he made it work, most of the time by himself.

The main reason to pull the rig is not so much to make replacing the rigging easier but to deal with any issues on the mast itself. Mast should be pulled for a major overhaul once every 10 years or so. Gives you a chance for a good inspection, replace sheaves, repair damage, treat corrosion, and do anything else needed. Contrary to popular thinking the mast itself is not maintenance free.
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Old 28-03-2013, 21:47   #12
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Re: standing rigging replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kestrahl View Post
Replaced all ours with the mast up. Riggers do it so why not.
If I was getting paid by the hour to re-rig a boat, I wouldn't want to have the mast pulled. Really cuts into billable hours.
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Old 28-03-2013, 23:17   #13
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Re: standing rigging replacement

I'm in the process of getting quotes for my rig. The two riggers I contacted both said it would be cheaper (due to less labour) to remove the mast ... and "there is always something else needing work". But at $1,400+ for the crane hire and labour for R & R alone, I am also investigating doing the job myself with the mast up.

I will be interested to follow this thread to help my decision. I have never been up a mast, so that in itself would be a new experience.
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Old 29-03-2013, 00:15   #14
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Re: standing rigging replacement

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Originally Posted by Wanderlust View Post
I'm in the process of getting quotes for my rig. The two riggers I contacted both said it would be cheaper (due to less labour) to remove the mast ... and "there is always something else needing work". But at $1,400+ for the crane hire and labour for R & R alone, I am also investigating doing the job myself with the mast up.

I will be interested to follow this thread to help my decision. I have never been up a mast, so that in itself would be a new experience.
The experience of doing it yourself with the Mast up will be worth1400! IMO..... If you Ebert have to replace anything by yourself, you will have three experience andchances are that it would be with the Mast up. Practice now in optimal conditions
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Old 29-03-2013, 00:35   #15
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I've done it a few times. I use spectra rope tied around the mast just above the spreaders or lashed to the masthead and set up securely to hold the mast while I replace the shrouds one by one. This gives you much more support than a halyard. It can be slow shifting the spectra each time but worth it for the extra security and lack of fear inducing wobble. Spreaders are the hardest part to deal with. I try to lash the spectra out to the end of the spreader but sometimes this isn't possible. In that case a bit of wood strapped to the top of the spreader might work.
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