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Old 30-05-2014, 11:18   #1
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Stanchion Issue

We removed a stanchion in order to work on the deck issues around it and realized that the stanchion may have caused the deck issues. The base (it is one solid piece) and the bolts are quite bent up.

Is this something that a welder could straighten out or do we just need to replace the stanchion?

If we need to replace the stanchion, is there anyplace that sells prefab solid stanchions or are we going to have to chose between having one manufactured and converting to a base plus stanchion?
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Old 30-05-2014, 11:23   #2
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Re: Stanchion issue

Also, whatever they used as sealant came off as a pad. There will be very little clean up involved, just a little seam around the outer edges. What kind of sealant would act this way?
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Old 30-05-2014, 11:42   #3
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Re: Stanchion issue

Can you show some photos? Of the stanchion and the pad material?
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Old 30-05-2014, 12:08   #4
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Re: Stanchion issue

I think we threw out the pad. They stick out from the bases themselves by about 1/4". The exposed part is cracked, but basically, they look like pliable, dirty white rectangles with four screw holes.

As for the stanchion currently being worked on:
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Old 30-05-2014, 12:44   #5
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Re: Stanchion issue

Green:
It appears to me, that the stanchion was already severely bent and then straightened in place. This resulted in the deck damage you have seen. The pad you mentioned is likely a white rubber material used as an alternate to bedding caulk. You could probably fix the deck, and straighten the base and re-install, but the metal will have been weakened.
Good Luck!
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Old 30-05-2014, 12:55   #6
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Re: Stanchion issue

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Originally Posted by 1affiah View Post
Green:
It appears to me, that the stanchion was already severely bent and then straightened in place. This resulted in the deck damage you have seen. The pad you mentioned is likely a white rubber material used as an alternate to bedding caulk. You could probably fix the deck, and straighten the base and re-install, but the metal will have been weakened.
Good Luck!
Larry
You should see the bolts! I can't believe we were able to get the nuts off.

As for sealant, I have already ordered butyl tape, I was just curious. I guess part of me wants to know how high a priority it is to rebed the rest of the rails and stanchions.
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Old 30-05-2014, 13:03   #7
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Re: Stanchion issue

Stancions are often a source of leaks as they do bend as your did. Your stanchion is not at all unusual... from what I can see. You may be able to find a new on at used marine stores or e bay etc. Even possible it's still made. Is it tapered or same diameter all the way up?
That stanchion looks readily fixable from what I can tell but cant see the whole thing. It appears just the base is bent..? A smart fabricator can flatten it well. Hat may be required in which case you want to have it electropolished after.
Some have a horseshoe shaped gusset instead of just the loop that has two end on the base. For a less than perfectly flat base I would use excessive sealant, let it semi harden with the bolts marginally tight then tighten completely later.
Or as mentioned, maybe it's a good application for Butyl as it stays somewhat pliable right? Not sure that's great for something that will be compressing it from leverage /force often though.
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Old 30-05-2014, 13:07   #8
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Re: Stanchion issue

Green,

It is possible to fix it, but I don't think its worth it. That type of bend work hardens the steel, so to fix it requires more than just bending it back into shape, you also need to anneal it again. All in all it's just cheaper and easier to replace it.

Given this type of damage I think it is time for a good inspection of the rest of the stations, but I wouldn't be in a hurry to replace them all. Just because they are old doesn't mean much so long as they are in good repair.

Rebedding is something that needs to be done every 10 years or so. If they are that old, then it is time to pull them off. I always replace the nuts and bolts when I do this, no matter their condition, but the hardware itself is often reusable.
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Old 30-05-2014, 13:08   #9
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Re: Stanchion issue

I feel your pain. Historically, hardware on production boats was never correctly or adequately bedded, or were the holes correctly sealed, for that matter. Consult books by Nigel Calder or Don Casey for more on this.
Matching the stanchions is tough, because of many hardware mfg'ers have come and gone since your boat was built. Maybe consult the Pearson Owners Group for this, and check with whitewatermarine.com, Garhauer, Schaefer, etc.
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Old 30-05-2014, 13:12   #10
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Re: Stanchion issue

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Originally Posted by Stumble View Post
Green,

It is possible to fix it, but I don't think its worth it. That type of bend work hardens the steel, so to fix it requires more than just bending it back into shape, you also need to anneal it again. All in all it's just cheaper and easier to replace it.

Given this type of damage I think it is time for a good inspection of the rest of the stations, but I wouldn't be in a hurry to replace them all. Just because they are old doesn't mean much so long as they are in good repair.

Rebedding is something that needs to be done every 10 years or so. If they are that old, then it is time to pull them off. I always replace the nuts and bolts when I do this, no matter their condition, but the hardware itself is often reusable.
Actually with that minor a bend the SS will be stronger than the rest of the stancions ... if it can be flattened. No fear of weakness. Most good SS has to withstand a 180 degree end test.. and often doesn't present cracking with that!
I agree easier to replace if he can find one though.
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Old 02-06-2014, 16:24   #11
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Re: Stanchion issue

Cut off the base plate have a new one made and welded on, provided it is straight.
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Old 02-06-2014, 18:34   #12
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Re: Stanchion issue

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tempo Spars View Post
Cut off the base plate have a new one made and welded on, provided it is straight.
OR....make a spacer, same shape or a bit bigger, maybe a bit beefier, and fit it like a shim, under the stanchion base. Whack the stanchion base flat. Weld the two bits together if you like. Stronger AND cheaper.
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Old 02-06-2014, 19:00   #13
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Re: Stanchion Issue

I took it to a welder/fabricator for a quote and he spent a grand total of maybe as much as 3 minutes pounding it back into place and even grinding off a little bit of corrosion. For free.

We have done the work on the deck and the butyl tape has arrived in the mail. We will reattach the stanchion as soon as my husband can get enough time off work to hold the tops of the bolts while I tighten the nuts.
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