Originally Posted by estarzinger
well the obvious way to be able to do all that is to use a removable 'code zero' style furler
(perhaps a facnor
). That gives you a furling
sail and stay that you can completely put away when you want.
Thanks Evans. Have looked at the links and they seem to be what I am looking for. It is just that I have 2 furlers already!
Originally Posted by hellosailor
I'd expect that what you want to do is perfectly feasible, the only real question is what bits of hardware
you'll need and who offers them. If you call someone who makes the fittings (in the US I'd say Harken
or Garhauer) to see what they offer that may solve the puzzle. Since you've either got a lot of math or some hands-on experimenting to get balance right, I'd suggest a robust low-profile track running fore/aft on the deck rather than trying to get a single attachment point in the right place. Then you can just fit whatever you want to try, and change it as need be.
Hellosailor: Good tip, just not sure about drilling even more holes into the deck
though. To complicate matters (or simplfy), there is a self tacking jib track and tackle installed as well. I would like to combine this with the 'new' solent stay to deploy a self tending staysail, thus making a cutter rig.
Once I have it clear in my mind, then it is simply doing the maths and collecting all the bits of hardware
to do it. Ain't boats wonderful?
Originally Posted by Jim Cate
Now I'm considering your concerns about rig loads. Analysis of stresses in our sweptback spreader rig are beyond me, and I wonder if you have any comments along those lines?
Hi Jim. Interesting read here
over at SA on this topic. Interesting to see that some with swept spreaders use ways to adjust the tension in the capping shrouds to avoid excessive backstay tension that Rich is talking about, but at the same time increase forestay tension and mast
Originally Posted by Weyalan
2. Attachment on the deck
There is a buckhead about 1.2m (4') back from the stem. I was planning to put the bottom hard point for the solent stay directly over this. The bulkhead is about 10mm (3/8") ply, glassed onto the underside of the deck and inside of the hull
. It has a fairly cut-out in it to allow acces forward, so there is probably only about 150mm (6") of bulkhead above around the deck and hull
sides.... i.e. it is more like a substantial ring-frame than a bulkhead. So, the question is, would this be likely to be strong enough for the loads associated with the solent stay attacment (via backing plates), or will I need to fashion some sort of tesioning strop down to the hull?
Weyalan: I am facing the exact same problem, except I have no bulkhead at all in the underneath area I want to make the attachment on the deck. My thought is to make a removable tensioning system with something like a Highfield Lever to connect when the Solent Stay is going to be used, to transfer the loading direct to the hull. In your case, I guess you could try it an see if the deck will deflect excessively, however if it goes, it will of course be at the most inopportune moment, lifting the deck and delaminating or worse. The temporary 'strop' should not be such a inconvenience, as I guess that if you have to deploy the storm sail, no one is going to be occupying the V Berth right?
Originally Posted by jjt
As I see it there are 2 possible solutions:
If the distance between the forestay and the solent stay is big (a slooter rig), the foresail should be a 110% high clew yankee, in this case I think you even need to furl partially the sail to tack.
If the distance beetween both stays is very small (a real solent rig), the obvious solution is to rig the bigger sail in the solent stay and to rig the storm sails
in the forestay so you can tack your big Genoa
as any other sloop
and you only need to furl a much smaller sail to tack (very seldom but in high winds)
JJT: A good option really, with minimal investment.
I guess my real goal is to have the option to use the removable stay as a cutter rig as well. Since the boat already has a true solent rig (the furler
drums are about 100mm apart on the bow), I would like to utilise what is already there. I am not sure I want to introduce a third stay, as this will complicate matters unnecessarily. Having said that, the suggestion from Evans using the Facnor or Karver style furler could solve the problem.
Thanks all for the discussion so far
Apologies to FJ again for the thread hijack