Sheet Lines

[SUSailor]

I am in the process of rebuilding a Santana 22. When I bought the boat, a lot of the running rigging was missing. As far as the jib sheets go, in my research I have seen 5/16" line recommended but also 3/8".

In the sails that I got with the boat there is a standard size (as far as I have been able to determine) set of sails and also a set with a 180 genoa.

Any recommendations you all have would be greatly appreciated.

[savoir]

The rope to buy is the one that feels best in your hands. If 5/16" feels too thin then get 3/8". Either Samson XLS or NER Sta Set will do the job so go for whichever is cheaper in your area.


Defender is a mail order chandler which sells Samson products and usually offers good prices so start your shopping there.
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?...79478&id=36459


Westmarine sell NER products
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/new-en...02_071_001_527


Maybe you can get a better deal somewhere else ?

[roverhi]

Doubt that you have a 180% genoa. Probably more likely a 150%. Sounds like you have 2 jibs, a working jib for heavier winds and the larger genoa for ligher conditions. If you two suits of sails, main and jib, either one set is original and the other newer replacements or if the boat was actively raced, a practice set made out of dacron and a race set usually out of some exotic laminate material.

As Savoir said, 5/16" is strong enough but too small a diameter for my hands. 3/8" is way easier on the hands. The thicker line is heavier and may negatively effect light air performance with that large genoa. The larger line is not much of a penalty for the mainsail sheet. Might want to get two different sets of sheets for the headsails.

[SUSailor]

There are two complete sets of sails that came with the boat. One is a factory set from Shock, the other is a set from Taylors in Montana. The set from Taylors were labeled "180 Genoa" on the bag that is also labeled from Taylors, so that is why I assumed it was a 180.

It sounds like the 3/8" may be the way to go if that is not a problem to have the heavier line. Also what set up would you all recommend for the main sheet? I have looked at several other 22's like mine at the local lake, but it seems as though everyone rigs them to their preference, so what would be a good starting set up?

[SkiprJohn]

Originally Posted by SUSailor

There are two complete sets of sails that came with the boat. One is a factory set from Shock, the other is a set from Taylors in Montana. The set from Taylors were labeled "180 Genoa" on the bag that is also labeled from Taylors, so that is why I assumed it was a 180.

It sounds like the 3/8" may be the way to go if that is not a problem to have the heavier line. Also what set up would you all recommend for the main sheet? I have looked at several other 22's like mine at the local lake, but it seems as though everyone rigs them to their preference, so what would be a good starting set up?

Get what feels right in your hands and will fit in your blocks. Whatever you get that fit those two criteria will be plenty strong enough. Was all that said already?

[SkiprJohn]

On a 22 having a traveler in the center and across of the cockpit gets in the way and you are always running into it with your shins. Having it on a traveler across the companionway hatch also gets in the way and may be lots of stress for mid-boom sheeting. If you look at lots of boats in your marina try to copy the ones that have end of boom to the top of the transom sheeting. That's to get you started. If you want to do some racing then you may want to change it later and copy the racers.

[SUSailor]

Originally Posted by SkiprJohn

On a 22 having a traveler in the center and across of the cockpit gets in the way and you are always running into it with your shins. Having it on a traveler across the companionway hatch also gets in the way and may be lots of stress for mid-boom sheeting. If you look at lots of boats in your marina try to copy the ones that have end of boom to the top of the transom sheeting. That's to get you started. If you want to do some racing then you may want to change it later and copy the racers.

Mine has the main sheeting going to a traveler at the transom now.

I just have not been able to find what the standard factory set up would consist of.

[savoir]

If it came off the end of the boom then it was probably a 3:1 system. You would be better off fitting a 4:1 system just to make life a little easier.

[SUSailor]

Originally Posted by savoir

If it came off the end of the boom then it was probably a 3:1 system. You would be better off fitting a 4:1 system just to make life a little easier.

I have seen pre-made sheets from various companies for the type of set-up I have. So would it be better to buy the pre-made version, or is it more cost effective to put it together myself?

[SkiprJohn]

Originally Posted by SUSailor

I have seen pre-made sheets from various companies for the type of set-up I have. So would it be better to buy the pre-made version, or is it more cost effective to put it together myself?

Just compare the cost of all the components separately to see what value there is in doing it yourself.

[SUSailor]

OK, I really appreciate the help. This is a steep learning curve for me so I need all the advice I can get. Again Thanks to all.

[savoir]

Don't buy a premade system - too expen$ive. There are several brands of boat hardware out there but I suggest Ronstan which gives better bang for the buck. Harken is better quality but won't make your boat any faster, just more expensive.

Take a look at this page
All Purpose BlocksÂ*Series 50mm | Ronstan Sailboat Hardware US
It looks to me like you need the RF51530 for the bottom (on the stern) and the RF51500 for the top (on the boom). Tie the mainsheet rope to the pin on the top of the 51530 fitting and then loop it around the pulleys and through the cleat - eeezzeee

If you don't have a mainsheet, the stuff you want is generally called "fuzzy" rope. It is cheap and soft on your hands. When you look at it in the store it is not shiny and has a few loose fibers hanging out. The Samson product is called Trophy Braid and the NER product is called Regatta Braid.

Next time you are on the boat tie some string to the mainsheet fitting on the end of the boom. Push the boom out until it hits the side stay. Use the string to measure the distance back to the traveler car on the stern. Multiply by 4 and add 3 feet and that is how much mainsheet rope you should buy.

[SUSailor]

Originally Posted by savoir

Don't buy a premade system - too expen$ive. There are several brands of boat hardware out there but I suggest Ronstan which gives better bang for the buck. Harken is better quality but won't make your boat any faster, just more expensive.

Take a look at this page
All Purpose BlocksÂ*Series 50mm | Ronstan Sailboat Hardware US
It looks to me like you need the RF51530 for the bottom (on the stern) and the RF51500 for the top (on the boom). Tie the mainsheet rope to the pin on the top of the 51530 fitting and then loop it around the pulleys and through the cleat - eeezzeee

If you don't have a mainsheet, the stuff you want is generally called "fuzzy" rope. It is cheap and soft on your hands. When you look at it in the store it is not shiny and has a few loose fibers hanging out. The Samson product is called Trophy Braid and the NER product is called Regatta Braid.

Next time you are on the boat tie some string to the mainsheet fitting on the end of the boom. Push the boom out until it hits the side stay. Use the string to measure the distance back to the traveler car on the stern. Multiply by 4 and add 3 feet and that is how much mainsheet rope you should buy.

Thank You very much for the info. This clears it up for me. Where I live there are not any sailing supply stores, so now I will find a good place to order and be good to go on that aspect. Would you recommend the same line for the Boom Vang as well?

[savoir]

A boom vang system should be the same general shape as the mainsheet system only smaller. You probably want 40mm series blocks for that job. Before buying any blocks think about where you want to cleat. There might already be a cleat on the cabin top somewhere saving some money or you might prefer a cleat mounted with the blocks like on the mainsheet.

The basic idea with the vang is 3:1 or 4:1 power ratio and 1/4" or 5/16" rope coupled with 40mm size blocks.

As for suppliers, if you have no one local then try these guys. www.defender.com I have been using them for 9 years and their prices are always fair and sometimes the best. I just checked on what they have in stock and found a great deal on Lewmar 50mm blocks for the mainsheet. Lewmar is a top quality world famous brand that doesn't usually come so cheap. You'd be nuts not to grab them.
Lewmar 50 mm Synchro Fiddle Block
Lewmar 50 mm Synchro Fiddle Block

[SUSailor]

Originally Posted by savoir

A boom vang system should be the same general shape as the mainsheet system only smaller. You probably want 40mm series blocks for that job. Before buying any blocks think about where you want to cleat. There might already be a cleat on the cabin top somewhere saving some money or you might prefer a cleat mounted with the blocks like on the mainsheet.

The basic idea with the vang is 3:1 or 4:1 power ratio and 1/4" or 5/16" rope coupled with 40mm size blocks.

As for suppliers, if you have no one local then try these guys. www.defender.com I have been using them for 9 years and their prices are always fair and sometimes the best. I just checked on what they have in stock and found a great deal on Lewmar 50mm blocks for the mainsheet. Lewmar is a top quality world famous brand that doesn't usually come so cheap. You'd be nuts not to grab them.
Lewmar 50 mm Synchro Fiddle Block
Lewmar 50 mm Synchro Fiddle Block

Just ordered. I will have to figure out the length for the Main Sheet line. I can do that tomorrow and then all I will need is the line and the main sheet will be done. Thanks for the link, it is much appreciated.