My topping lift goes to the end of the boom with a 3-1 purchase
and a jam cleat block. It's easy to adjust from the cockpit
except when the boom is way out. Would expect that you'd need at least a 3-1 and preferably a 4-1 purchase
if you are going to run topping lift down to the cabin
top unless you have a winch
Replaced the vinyl coated wire topping lift with a 12 strand Dyneema
line. Does not chafe the leech or flail around like the wire lift did as it's so light it blows off to leeward away from the sail. Went with 1/8th inch line but would go with something thicker. At anchor
or in the marina, that thin a line acts like a guitar string when it's holding the boom up in winds above 10k.
I've run the main halyard
and double line reefing back to the cabin
top. Tack reefing lines and halyard to stbd. side. Outhaul
and clew reefing lines to port. Works fantastically well and don't have to leave the shelter of the dodger
to reef. Can reef in about a minute. It's so easy, often do it just for the fun of it. Use halyard bags on the cabin face to keep the lines out of the way and easily accessed.
Unless you are using a single
line reefing system, can't see running the mainsail
control lines to just one side of the cabin top. I'm not a fan of single
line reefing. Way too much friction requiring a winch
to haul in much of the reefing line which makes it very slow on the boats I've sailed on. Went out on a 27 footer this past weekend and it took two of us to reef without a winch. With the double line set up doesn't require a winch for the tack lines and only for the last 2' or so on the clew line. But since it is 8 lines led back to the cockpit
, split them up, 1/2 to each side to make sorting out and control of the bitter ends way easy..
Wouldn't run the spinnaker
halyards back to the cabin top unless you'll always be sailing with a crew. Seems messing with the headsails always requires someone to work the halyard. If you are single handing or just having to communicate, it's a long ways back to the cockpit.