Re-rigging costs?

[tracker_46]

Hi, anybody know what it's going to cost me to re-rig my Tayana 37 with oversize diameter rigging? (just the standing rigging).. I'm scared to hear the $ amount, but I want to know anyway!
Thanks

[h20nutt]

Great Big Question.

To oversize think about your chain plate holes. Pin size will determine which turnbuckles you will use. Turnbuckles will determine what wire size.
Your roller furler is probably configured for a certain wire size. It may or may not permit an oversized headstay.
With staloks and some wire you can do it your self.
Uou can remove rig and send it to a shop for duplication.
A mobil rigger can do it in abouy a day at your dock.

The only non variable here. Don't, please don't cut any corners.

Referrals available.
The waternut

[Paul L]

Originally Posted by tracker_46

... with oversize diameter rigging?...

Why are you going with oversized rigging? Do you think that this is somehow safer? You are adding significant weight to the rig thus reducing the stability of your boat. You can't easily add extra weight to the keel to compensate. To get the larger diameter wire tight enough you will have to tune the rig tighter. This will put additional wear and stress on the boat. Larger rigging does not equal safer. You might want to check with Bob Perry on what he thinks is the right sized rigging for your boat as you plan to use it. Paul

[btrayfors]

It ain't gonna be cheap. Here are some figures for rerigging my 42' Perry sloop about six years ago. Work was done in the BVI by a master rigger.
Sorry for the bad formatting....I don't know how to insert a table.

Quantity Item Each ($) Cost ($)

332.00 Feet 10mm 1x19 type 316 British ropes 3.35 1,112.20
7.00 10mm Norseman eyes 69.00 483.00
7.00 10mm Norseman studs 72.00 504.00
7.00 5/8" Gibb toggle blanks 77.00 539.00
6.00 stainless steel mast tangs 90.00 540.00
6.00 stainless steel bushings 40.00 240.00
3.00 stainless steel ½" bolts w/locknuts 10.00 30.00
3.00 boom pad eyes 40.00 120.00
1.00 backstay top toggle 75.00 75.00
2.00 3/8" U-bolts for masthead crane 30.00 60.00
6.00 5/8" stainless steel clevis pins 7.00 42.00
1.00 crane service 225.00 225.00
- miscellaneous - 40.00
29.00 labor 29 hours @ $55 55.00 1,595.00

TOTAL $5,605.20
Actual $5,883.00

Bill

[delmarrey]

on Paul L's reply........................................_/)

[Weyalan]

Just as an additional comment on the limited benefit from oversize rigging: you can oversize the rigging as much as you want, but this may not make your rig any stronger at all if your chainplates are not up-sized to suit. Keep in mind that your yacht's designer will have had a pretty good idea of what loads might be generated by your sail-plan and how this would be translated into loads on the standing rigging, so would have designed the rigging with this in mind.

Having said all that, if you really want to "strengthen" your rigging, rather than going with heavier gauge wire, you could go for similar gauge, but Dyform, which is slightly stronger that the standard type...that way you don't take a hit in decreased stability fromt he additional weight up high.

[coaster]

I just paid $2100.00 to re-rig my Seafarer. Sty locks, 1/4" 316 1X19 wire, eyes and turnbuckles.

[Joli]

Bout $18k for us.

[GordMay]

“Dyform” compacted strand wire has both (about) 30% higher breaking strength & 30% higher weight than an equivalent sized “conventional” 1 x 19 wire. The compacted finish (smoother) gives lower aerodynamic drag, and “Dyform” has very low elastic stretch. Unfortunately it is also 50 percent more expensive.

I suspect most professional riggers would recommend utilizing smaller diameters of “Dyform” to achieve similar strength & weight aloft, with the added benefits of (25%?) Less stretch, and less windage (aerodynamic drag) .

Were you to go for similar gauge, but Dyform (to increase strength, as suggested by Weylan), you would also be increasing weight aloft (nearly) proportionally to the increased strength (though aero drag may be reduced).

[seafox]

I paid just over $5000 kiwi for rerigging a 35 foot sloop. (Lotus 10.6)

[Pblais]

I had an estimate and it was about 50% labor and 50% wire. They were going to reuse the staylocks and replace the wedges only. The esitimates you see above are not bad at all. Bill's price is a pretty good deal if you get it. I would also agree on the over sized arguments. It's not likely you would break the wire in most events that might break in the standing rigging unless it was a failure of the wire due to age. The fittings would be the thing to worry about in older rigging. Sea water inside the staylocks is also pretty deadly. They need a proper sealant. Chain plates would be the tough call you need to make.

[FrankZ]

I had my rigging redone at the begining of last season. I went up one size, to what the specs for the boat recommended not what someone had used. In the process I also found out that someone had used a D shackle to attach a shroud to the chain plate. It was all done with nicropress fittings. Once I realized what I had I considered smacking myself for sailing with it.

In the end I spent just under $700 for all of it, including labor and materials. The trade off was I had to deliver the old and pick up the new rigging from the shop. It was about a 45 minute drive at lunch or after work so no big deal. They quoted me 10 day turn around then ended up with next day as a scheduled job fell through.

http://www.chesapeakerigging.com/main.html