Originally Posted by robwilk37
so im at the point in this build where i have to commit to the rig. too many interior
projects on hold because i dont know exactly what my rig geometry will be. sent off a request to ballenger spars and got a quote, now i need another pair(s) of eyes to check me and make sure im not missing any opportunities at this early stage.
the boat is 40', 9ton, deck-stepped, solent-rigged, short-handed cruiser. i value simple and utilitarian. planning dux standing rigging
w/coligo terminals. composite chains. removable inner stay at the single spreaders, single line reefing at the mast. the foredeck on furlers including sprit-flown gennacker.
ballenger will install mast head and deck light conduits, 4 sheave head box plus spinny crane. im looking for insight as to the miscellany, nice-to-haves or wish-i-dids. crowd sourcing lessons learned from hardened cruisers please.
thanks so much...
It's smart to consider what you want in a rig now, as you're doing. Since it costs little to tweak things, before they're built, vs. having regrets about it's features later.
And to some degree I'm not sure how much info to provide, or questions to ask, as the spec sheet for a rig, can & should, cover many pages. With the list of options & features for same, is several times that size.
Another big component to figure out now, is the number of winches & where they'll be, in terms of handling halyards, & reefing. Ditto on; line clutches/stoppers, conventional cleats
, turning blocks, reefing setup, lines led aft, etc.
And if you give us more spec's on the boat, the proposed rig & sailplan, it will allows for a lot more in the way of suggestions. The more details which you can provide, the better.
That said, here are some thinks:
- A high SADR (Sail Area Displacement
Ratio) is Really
nice to have, especially as cruising boats tend to run heavy & also be under-canvassed. Which, if you want the boat to sail well, generally means having a spar who's length (height from deck) is 1.3x-1.4x LOA
of the boat.
Light air performance ain't just for racers. Ditto on upwind performance.
Or, if a taller spar is ruled out ONLY due to stablity considerations (which are easily solvable at the building stage). Then look into a bow sprit/longer sprit, & a longer boom. As well as a roachy, full battened main. Or, much as I hate them, a Boomkin.
Some of my stressing the point of a tall spar, & lots of canvas
, is that you mention a single spreader rig. Which, on a 40' boat, it's tough to have a tall enough single spreader spar from which to hang sufficient canvas
, unless the mast tube is the size of a Sequoia, section wise. With all of the negative aspects which accompany such a (needlessly) heavy mast.
- I'm not a huge fan of composite chainplates, unless there's any easy way to add conventional ones later. As if composite ones get damaged, I gather they're pretty tough to repair. Being that they're integral to the boat, & that fixing them would likely entail a major structural redo of the boat's structure.
Also, Titanium chainplates only cost marginally more than Stainless ones. While not having corrosion
issues, & they're have much better strength, lifespan, etc.
- It's nice to have more than 4 halyards. With them being almost exclusively Internal. For example;
1 Main, plus a spare sheave on the aft side of the mast. Generally for a Topping Lift
or spare Main halyard
. Or as a Trysail halyard
, seperate from the Main halyard.
2 Spinnaker's; one of which can possibly double as a Spare Jib
halyard, or as a full height, free flying Staysail halyard.
Both can be used for various light air sails
, that are flown in front of the Headstay.
1 Staysail, which also doubles as a Topping Lift
2nd Topping Lift (optional) for 2nd Spin/Whisker Pole to run downwind, wing & wing.
That probably sound like a lot to some, but it's much easier to set up the spar for them now vs. later. And the usefulness of most of them should be pretty apparent.
Not to sound overly critical, but here are a few key questions based on the provided info. And I ask, in attempts to help you fully think through your rig setup desires:
~ What purpose does the inner forestay half way up the mast serve? Since, really, it's too short to hang any sails
~ Why single line reefing? A 2-line setup performs much better, especially on big boats, & is also more reliable.
Also, go with sheaves in the boom's outboard
end, so that you can run the reefing lines internally. And spec the boom so that it has 1-2 more sheaves than you ever forsee needing. As you can't add them later.
~ Your thoughts on/plans for using conventional compression
tubes, with doublers, & tang bolts are?
~ Plans for mast mounted; Lights, Radar
, Instruments, Antennas, etc., are? As such will determine conduit sizes & locations.
~ How did you got a quote for the rig, when much of it's details have yet to be determined? Or so it sounds.
~ And are your choices experience based, coming from tens of thousands of ocean miles, or what you've read that works (in theory)? As, frankly, much of the info out there on rig setups, comes out of the backside of a male bovine.
The bottom line is that the best way to design this, is to have built things many times over in your mind, & then on paper. Right down to the last bolt & rivet. Based on lots of experience sailing, as well as having built/spec'd & repaired many rigs, rigging, & sails.
And once you have it on paper, run it by several (each) professional; Riggers, Sailmakers, & Spar builders, for critiquing.