Moving head tang of inner stay

[iWeb]

Hello All
I'm considering using my inner forestay (baby stay on a track on foredeck) to set my storm jib and need advice on how to move the stay attachment point up 6 inches. This'll take it above the sheave I'll use for the jib halyard (will still have another for pole topping lift).
From the photo (hopefully attached) it looks like 6 rivets to drill out, but then what? Will the fitting be able to be extracted and re let in to a new aperture cut above the sheave? I'm having trouble visualising how the tang can be extracted.
By the way this is on a S&S34 which I'll be taking cruising around Tasmania, so both the boat and myself have to be prepared for some uncomfortable conditions along the way.
Thanks for your help,
Webby

[iWeb]

Another pic (also pretty average) which might help. Hard to take photos when swinging around in the bosuns chair at night.
Cheers Webby

[GordMay]

Greetings and welcome aboard the CF, Webby.

I suspect that your tang may be inserted (thru a slot) from inside the mast.

[iWeb]

Thanks, would that mean it can't be moved?
Any ideas for other options,
Cheers Webby

[Sailmonkey]

If the tang is built as a two piece unit as is this one

Adjusters / accessories for babystay attachment / babystay tang

It can be removed from the mast and moved to another location, but in order to do so a slot must be cut in the mast.

[iWeb]

Hi Sailmonkey
Thanks for the link, I hadn't seen those. The tang on my mast is one piece as far as I can see, but I could just leave it there and insert a 2 piece higher up. Cheers, webby

[gjordan]

Is there some reason why you cant leave the tang where it is, and put a new halyard below it? It might be a lot easier? I really like the idea of getting the storm jib off of the forestay for cruising. Good Luck._____Grant.

[iWeb]

Hi Grant
I think you're right, I'll add a sheave below the tang. Anything I should know about cutting into my mast? Any tips on how to do this properly much appreciated,
Cheers Webby

[foolishsailor]

Originally Posted by iWeb

Hi Grant
I think you're right, I'll add a sheave below the tang. Anything I should know about cutting into my mast? Any tips on how to do this properly much appreciated,
Cheers Webby

Usually the best bet is to

1. Find the proper drill bit size for the top and bottom radius of the slot
2. Measure out the distance from Center to Center of the two radius points so you can use a Center punch to start your drilling.
3. Drill the two holes
4. Depending on how comfortable you are using a fine cutting blade on a grinder while in a bosuns chair you connect the two holes with a grinder. Better yet if you have a Fine Multimaster you can use its metal cutting blade to better effect. Or you can use a offset handle on a metal hack saw blade.
5. Clean any burrs with a file
6. Drill the rivet holes for the sheave plate
7. Intstall

[roverhi]

The fitting looks like a stainless weldment mounted from inside the mast. They cut a slot in the mast to slip the tang of the fitting through and then riveted the backing plate in place. The rivets don't do much except keep the fitting from falling inside the mast. You can move it if you can get access to the interior of the mast. Sometimes these fittings are put on before the masthead is welded on so your only access will be from the bottom. Doing it from the bottom with all the wires and halyards in the way can be a challenge. Trying to install or add this type of fitting with the mast stepped is something I wouldn't even think of trying.

Personally, I'd buy an external fitting for a Staysail. That will have the stay and block attachment pukas already built in. Use tapped machine screws to fasten it to the mast. These fittings are really common and you should be able to find one easily. Best place to start would be the supplier of the mast.

How high up the mast is the Baby stay. Aren't these at the spreaders?? If so, that is probably too low for the storm jib or staysail stay.

[iWeb]

Hi Foolishsailor
Thanks for the step by step, just what was looking for. I have access to a Fein so will go that route. I also have an unused halyard exit lower down the mast which with a turning block I'll run back to the cockpit. I'll be sailing mostly short handed with my wife, so am trying set the boat up for single handing. I'll be looking for opinions on topping lift and main halyard positioning for shorthanded sailing advice soon.
My baby stay tang is attached just below the second spreaders (tall rig S&S 34), so the height is about right for staysail/storm jib, although up just a little would have been good, but no can do without pulling the stick, $$$.
Thanks for help, it's good to more experienced people out there,
Cheers, webby

[gjordan]

My thoughts would be to use an external halyard to avoid cutting another slot in the mast. I am not a rigger, so maybe it is not a real worry, but I dont like to do anything to weaken a mast. Get ahold of the original manufacturer of the mast and see what they say. ___Good Luck with it._____Grant.

[Jim Cate]

The location sounds just fine for a storm staysail IMO. But, do consider that you may need to add some runners to support the mast in way of the new loads from the storm jib. They don't have to be heroic in size... on our previous boat (old IOR one-tonner with a telephone pole like mast) we used some discarded 3/16 inch wire halyards for such runners and they worked ok.

Cheers,

Jim

[iWeb]

Hi Jim
Thanks fir the good advice on supporting the mast. As luck would have it, there are already runners, currently stowed at the chain plates. I'm planning on installing self tailing secondary cockpit winches and appropriate blocks to tension the runner and trisail on alternate sides.
Thanks for your help, webby

[islandplanet]

Be sure and use something like Tefgel or Lanocote on the stainless steel fasteners to prevent dissimilar metal corrosion. Whenever I install a stainless fitting on a mast, I'll put something between the steel and the aluminum. I've used everything from EPDM rubber to material from a plastic milk jug.