MAXWELL 2200 Windlass Problem

[Black Diamond]

I've recently replaced (an interesting problem) the chain counter sensor for the MAXWELL 2200 windlass on our Hylas 49. Everything worked fine and the chain counter is working again. At the time, I took the windlass apart and cleaned/re-greased it before putting it back together. It worked fine for about 2-3 weeks (many up and down cycles).

Yesterday, with 90 ft of chain out of course, it refused to take up the chain. The capstan just spins on top of the chain gypsy as it does when the clutch is not engaging. The windlass works fine electrically, and the capstan spins fine. I used the lever that came with the windlass to tighten the clutch, but even with cranking it down hard it just spins.

When I disassembled the windlass (in the middle of the harbor with power boats churning things up around me) everything looked fine except two things...

1. The clutch seems to just be metal on metal for contact. I'm not sure what its supposed to look like. The explosion diagrams don't show anything beyond shape, but I was wondering if there was some kind of coating (like an automotive clutch has) to assist it in grabbing the gypsy underneath. If so, its completely worn off. I'm not really sure how this is supposed to work if its metal on metal.
2. There are half-rings ("clutch retaining circlips") on the diagram that were just sitting on top of the clutch ring. There is no groove for them to sit in, nor any indication of where they are actually supposed to go. The diagram shows a groove, but there is no groove on the main shaft of the windlass. Not sure if they are right or wrong, but the "clutch retaining" aspect as me suspicious.

I was going to go to the boat next to me (who has the same windlass) and take it apart, but I know Barry reads this distribution list. Taking parts from his windlass might not be considered the act of a good neighbor. :-)


Anyone have any advice on this?


Rick & Bonnie Fricchione
S/V Black Diamond
Portsmouth, RI

[svHyLyte]

Originally Posted by Black Diamond

I've recently replaced (an interesting problem) the chain counter sensor for the MAXWELL 2200 windlass on our Hylas 49. Everything worked fine and the chain counter is working again. At the time, I took the windlass apart and cleaned/re-greased it before putting it back together. It worked fine for about 2-3 weeks (many up and down cycles).

Yesterday, with 90 ft of chain out of course, it refused to take up the chain. The capstan just spins on top of the chain gypsy as it does when the clutch is not engaging. The windlass works fine electrically, and the capstan spins fine. I used the lever that came with the windlass to tighten the clutch, but even with cranking it down hard it just spins.

When I disassembled the windlass (in the middle of the harbor with power boats churning things up around me) everything looked fine except two things...

1. The clutch seems to just be metal on metal for contact. I'm not sure what its supposed to look like. The explosion diagrams don't show anything beyond shape, but I was wondering if there was some kind of coating (like an automotive clutch has) to assist it in grabbing the gypsy underneath. If so, its completely worn off. I'm not really sure how this is supposed to work if its metal on metal.
2. There are half-rings ("clutch retaining circlips&quot on the diagram that were just sitting on top of the clutch ring. There is no groove for them to sit in, nor any indication of where they are actually supposed to go. The diagram shows a groove, but there is no groove on the main shaft of the windlass. Not sure if they are right or wrong, but the "clutch retaining" aspect as me suspicious.

I was going to go to the boat next to me (who has the same windlass) and take it apart, but I know Barry reads this distribution list. Taking parts from his windlass might not be considered the act of a good neighbor. :-)


Anyone have any advice on this?


Rick & Bonnie Fricchione
S/V Black Diamond
Portsmouth, RI

The half rings or cir-clips you describe should be above the spring and collar ring just above the crank collar and below the lower clutch cone. The lower clutch cone is then installed facing upward and a spring ring installed above that. The Chainwheel is then installed followed by a second spring ring, clutch cone and then the barrel of the capstan. There is no coating on the surfaces of the clutch cones. These, and the mating surfaces in the chainwheel and capstan barrel should be polished smooth with Emory cloth and wiped with a very little bit of light oil or T-9 to prevent corrosion but should be essentially dry when reassembled. Maxwell User Manuals are available at User Manuals .

[Jim Cate]

If tightening the clutch makes no difference in transmitted torque, then it seems likely that you have sheared one of the drive keys that link the clutches to their shafts.

Cheers,

Jim

[Black Diamond]

Good thoughts, both. I checked the keys when I took it apart. They look OK. The circlips I removed were *ABOVE* the lower clutch cone, not below as described in the prior note. Not sure why. I'll take a look at both again now that I am back at the dock.

Fortunately, with electric winches for my sheets, I was able to hook an S-Hook to the chain and drag back about 40' at a time to haul it up. I then got it all back in the chain locker. Now that I am back at my marina, I'll work on the windlass.

Rick

[Black Diamond]

OK... took it all apart and found that the clutch retention circlips were in the wrong place and the spring clip/ring was broken. Now I just have to find out where I can get the parts... Anyone know of a good place in the US to buy MAXWELL spares? I'd like to get what I need and have a full set of spares still when I am done.

Rick

[Delfin]

Originally Posted by Black Diamond

OK... took it all apart and found that the clutch retention circlips were in the wrong place and the spring clip/ring was broken. Now I just have to find out where I can get the parts... Anyone know of a good place in the US to buy MAXWELL spares? I'd like to get what I need and have a full set of spares still when I am done.

Rick

West Marine or Defender should be able to order what you need. Regarding lubrication on the clutch cones, I have used grease for 30 years and never had any problems, and I think you'll find that is what Maxwell recommends. You should release the tension on the clutch regularly to let it freewheel as they tend to weld themselves together if you don't. My method is to use the motor to lower the anchor to the seabed and lay out most of the scope I want. Then I attach the snub line and freewheel the chain out over the snubber.

If you have trouble getting the parts from West, here is Maxwell's U.S. office address:

2907 South Croddy Way
Santa Ana, CA 92627-6302
USA
PHONE: +(1) 714 689 2900

[Black Diamond]

I cannot recall ever free-wheeling the anchor out. Even when I hook the snubber line to the chain, I do it by putting on the hook and then using the windlass to lay out more line.

I have to call Defender or West. They don't seem to have it in their catalog, but a phone call can tell me what they have. Not open on Sunday.

Appreciate the advice on the grease.

Rick

[Delfin]

Originally Posted by Black Diamond

I cannot recall ever free-wheeling the anchor out. Even when I hook the snubber line to the chain, I do it by putting on the hook and then using the windlass to lay out more line.

I have to call Defender or West. They don't seem to have it in their catalog, but a phone call can tell me what they have. Not open on Sunday.

Appreciate the advice on the grease.

Rick

Long fiber Lubriplate seems to stay put the best.

[Ian R]

It pays to make sure the free wheeling works so you can still drop the anchor if the motor fails. I had to remove the cone washer between the clutch plates to make the clutch grip ,due to wear,on a freedom 800. The winch doesn't freewheel well without the washer removed,but it doesn't slip.

[Jim Cate]

Rick, if you have the broken bits you could simply take them to a nearby bearing and seal type vendor. They will be able to match them up and charge you far less than the OEM or West Marine will. Same goes for seals and replacement bearings in the windlass gear box too! And for that matter, many of the parts for typical marine diesels and their accessories as well.

Cheers,

Jim

[Tantalus1]

Hello chaps,
I too have a Maxwell 2200 anchor winch with issues. It slows right down when under load, and then eventually trips.
So, I stripped the above deck parts today. Have cleaned, greased and oiled it all and put it together. The clutches were quite tightly locked, nescessecitating percussive activities to separate them from the chain drum. When re-assembling, in notice four holes drilled into the bottom clutch? The manual calls for four springs in these holes, making sense, to help split the clutch when needing a manual chain dump. Anyway, I've re-assembled it without these four springs, will need to order them asap.
Question 1) the below deck gear box has a view glass plug to check the gearbox oil. It is halfway up the glass as recommended in the manual. How does one drain and replenish this oil without removing the whole damn thing? And is it necessary to change this oil?
Question 2) the slowing down: - can this be the brushes in the electric motor?

[Tantalus1]

Four little springs, four little PVC studs and one spring washer = $108.00 kerching!

[Tantalus1]

Oh dear, still not working correctly. Went fishing yesterday and, when raising the anchor, it tripped out again.
Could this be a sign it needs new brushes?

[Tantalus1]

Anyone out there?

[donradcliffe]

Originally Posted by Tantalus1

Oh dear, still not working correctly. Went fishing yesterday and, when raising the anchor, it tripped out again.
Could this be a sign it needs new brushes?

Its much more likely a sign that the windlass isn't getting enough electrical juice. Start at the battery and clean every contact.