Made New Turnbuckle Bodies

[pdxsailordiver]

This Summer I had to cut the teak bulwarks off my boat because it was leaking and rotted the deck and shear clamp. After cutting the deck back 11" removing the chain plates that were laminated into the hull and laminating in 256 linear ft of mahogany shear clamp, re glassing the decks and installing cascade aluminum toe rail.Cascade toe rail is designed to have the rigging attach to the toe rail. The one year old rigging was now 5" to SHORT. So I made (8) 5/8" new turnbuckles. I used 304 stainless (1 3/16 dia)but I think over the winter I will find some old 1 1/4 " silicon bronze prop shafts and remake the bodies. Hardest part of this project is 5/8 turnbuckles are 5/8 - 16 thread. So I had to have taps made $$. But much cheaper then throwing away new rigging. Little more polishing and I will be done.

[SkiprJohn]

You're my newest hero. Gotta see your boat the next time I'm in town.

kind regards,

[stillbuilding]

Originally Posted by pdxsailordiver

This Summer I had to cut the teak bulwarks off my boat because it was leaking and rotted the deck and shear clamp. After cutting the deck back 11" removing the chain plates that were laminated into the hull and laminating in 256 linear ft of mahogany shear clamp, re glassing the decks and installing cascade aluminum toe rail.Cascade toe rail is designed to have the rigging attach to the toe rail. The one year old rigging was now 5" to SHORT. So I made (8) 5/8" new turnbuckles. I used 304 stainless (1 3/16 dia)but I think over the winter I will find some old 1 1/4 " silicon bronze prop shafts and remake the bodies. Hardest part of this project is 5/8 turnbuckles are 5/8 - 16 thread. So I had to have taps made $$. But much cheaper then throwing away new rigging. Little more polishing and I will be done.

Very impressive!
Can you elaborate on the milling required?

[pdxsailordiver]

Stillbuilding

I bought a 9' piece of 1 3/16"304 stainless for $75. So for the price I did not have much into it. I have the advantage of being the residential electric / industrial automation teacher in an amazing high school. The school has one of the best equipped machine shops in town. I love playing in that shop.
I center drilled the ends with a lathe set at 400 rpm ( drilling stainless is all about speed and feed). I drilled first with a 1/4" drill then a 9/16. Just standard bits.
For the slots I used a Bridgeport mill with a digital readout and power table.Digital readout and power table make it easier.
Milling machine bit was a 5/8" 2 flute high speed steel. Milling machine was at 425 rpm and the table drive was 1.5 inches a minute. I did each slot in 6 -8 passes. Start to finish each one took me about 1 1/2 hours. I had to order the taps as 5/8-16 thread is not standard, that was my biggest expense $98 ea.
Now I want to find silicone bronze and remake them so I don't have to worry about them galling. I will either buy some old 1 1/4 bronze prop shafts or a 12' lengths of rod for about $350. It would have been to easy and boring to buy new rigging.
I do not claim to be a machinist I just like to play one.
Tim

[Blue Stocking]

If I ever need a heart by-pass, you da man!!

Beautiful work

[SkiprJohn]

Taps needed to be right hand and left hand thread?

Did you use and 1/2"?

[hpeer]

I get the sense you enjoyed and are rightfully proud of the project.

I have a question I hesitate to ask. I presume you thought of using a few links of chain to make up the difference?

[pdxsailordiver]

John
My turnbuckles were 5/8 and I wanted to use the existing ends. I had to order a left and a right $98 ea.
Hpeer
I thought of all kinds of solutions including bolting tabs on to the toe rail.
But while looking for (2) 6-8'lengths of 1" polished stainless tube at a local industrial supply place (Alaska copper and brass) for another project. I found the round stock and, I bit on the challenge.
Tim

[Stumble]

Originally Posted by hpeer

I get the sense you enjoyed and are rightfully proud of the project.

I have a question I hesitate to ask. I presume you thought of using a few links of chain to make up the difference?

Chain has no where near the strength required to be in a rigging situation. While it may look incredibly strong, most chain has a rated load of less than the nylon line it attaches to for most anchors.

[Anonymous7500]

pdxsailordiver,

Machinists are a fussy bunch. Probably more than sailors. As a machinist I would like to offer some advice for future projects.

Originally Posted by pdxsailordiver

I center drilled the ends with a lathe set at 400 rpm ( drilling stainless is all about speed and feed). I drilled first with a 1/4" drill then a 9/16. Just standard bits.

Pre-drilling with the 1/4" is not necessary. Pre-drilling most likely made it more difficult to drill the 9/16" hole.

Originally Posted by pdxsailordiver

For the slots I used a Bridgeport mill with a digital readout and power table. Digital readout and power table make it easier. Milling machine bit was a 5/8" 2 flute high speed steel. Milling machine was at 425 rpm and the table drive was 1.5 inches a minute. I did each slot in 6 -8 passes. Start to finish each one took me about 1 1/2 hours. I had to order the taps as 5/8-16 thread is not standard, that was my biggest expense $98 ea.

Bit = end mill. McMaster Carr has the taps for about $45 each. They have a bunch of reasonably priced items for weekend machinists.

Originally Posted by pdxsailordiver

Now I want to find silicone bronze and remake them so I don't have to worry about them galling.

Silicon Bronze machining will make the stainless machining seem like a dream.

Originally Posted by pdxsailordiver

I do not claim to be a machinist I just like to play one.

The end product that you have produced looks better than a lot of "machinist" produced parts I have seen. Please, consider putting a significant milled chamfer around the slots or machine it to look like the original. The edge where the slot meets the OD of the stock will easily separate you from your flesh in it's current form.

[s/v 'Faith']

Nice work, and clever solution to your problem...

.... Nice work.

[svBeBe]

Originally Posted by pdxsailordiver

I used 304 stainless (1 3/16 dia)but I think over the winter I will find some old 1 1/4 " silicon bronze prop shafts and remake the bodies.

I am guessing the reason most turnbuckles are made of bronze then chrome plated is because bronze is stronger than stainless.

Did the difference in strength concern you?

Bill

[SkiprJohn]

Aloha PDX,
I've got an old 1" rudder shaft made of bronze. Too thin for what you want?
kind regards,

[SkiprJohn]

It's 68" long but I don't know if it's silicon bronze and don't know how to tell.

J