Help me Work out my Foredeck Layout

[sully75]

I'm rebuilding my foredeck on a 29' Pearson Triton.

Problems with the old arrangement, there was a sort of bowsprit thing with the anchor roller on it. It was right against the headstay and when I brought the anchor up it would interfere with the furler, I ended up breaking part of the drum off at one point. No good. I also am adding a manual windlass to the deck and changing out the chain pipe (used to have a dorade vent thing as a chain pipe that you couldn't close.

Anyway, this is what I'm thinking so far. The bow rail is getting in the way of me moving the anchor roller over any further. The one change I'm planning from this picture is to move the larger of the two cleats in line with the anchor roller.

I've pondered making a tapered bass for the anchor roller so that the aft edge of it is flat with the deck but it still makes it over the toe rail, making a better lead to the cleat and the windlass. But I'm not sure about that.

My other big question is where to put the fair-leads. Currently there is only one, far forward by the head stay. I can't put another one on starboard because of the anchor roller. And then I can put them right aft of that because of the bow rail. So they end up being quite a bit farther aft in this arrangement. I'm not sure if that's a problem or not. I don't really see it on other boats but my bow is narrower than a lot of other boats + a pretty big roller.

I like the big roller btw...I use a 35lb Mantus that sits in it and I'm at anchor a lot when I'm on the boat so like having some oversized tackle up there.

All ears if you have any thoughts.

[sully75]

Anyone?


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[Ex-Calif]

OK - I'll take a stab...

You can make this a total front end rebuild (hard) or do some things to make this a little more workable.

1. Reinforce & widen the bulwarks back to just in front of the second stanchion - maybe 2 inch wide bulwarks
2. Ditch all the fairleads
3. Install cleats on newly widen bulwarks aft of the first pulpit stanchions
4. Ditch the foredeck cleats
5. Manufacture a bowsprit to move the anchor guide forward and away from the furling drum. This can have an "offset" feed to the gypsy. The only thing passing close to the furling drum would be a low profile chain "channel" - there may also be a sprit maker out there that can do a custom one for your boat.

Options

6. Relocate the gypsy? Partially bury the gypsy in the deck?
7. Relocate the chain locker

And that's the "easy" solution that I came up with - LOL

Mods 1-5 simplify the foredeck cleating and will unfoul the furling drum.

If you want to keep the fairleads - say to be able to attach a bridle for a storm anchor or something you might have to figure out how to reincorporate the fairleads.

[JPA Cate]

First, determine just how much further forward the roller needs to be for the Mantus to clear the furler drum. It may be only an inch or two.

Remove the anchor guide, and replace it that ~ 1-1/2 inches further forward. You'll be drilling new holes in the guide so that you still have 6, and you'll need a new backing plate for it. If you buy a sheet to make up plates from, about 1/4" s/s will do, and also make backing plates for your deck cleats. If you want to use the two aft fairleads, put the deck cleats on mounting blocks to keep the lines clear of the toerail itself. I'd place them ahead of the stanchions, but as close as possible to the toerail. You really don't want foot-clutter if you can avoid it. If you want a strong point on or near the the mid-line, backing plate time again, but you might consider one of the Wichard folding pad eyes--check the strength first.

I did not see a chain hawse in the picture. Have you installed the windlass yet? It, too, will require a backing plate. Is there a chain locker? Bow chain lockers need to be self-draining, and you'll need access for cleaning from time to time. [For our stern chain locker on our first Insatiable, we used two milk crates, the bottom cut out of the upper one, then lashed together, to make a chain locker. It was never ideal, but it worked okay for 18 yrs.! However, it drained to the bilge and we pumped the water out. I'm assuming you don't want it to drain into your V-berth.

If you singlehand the boat, you might consider adding jack line pad eyes at this time; and yes, they'll need backing plates, too.

Ann

[Ex-Calif]

Good catch Ann - I didn't even notice that this was all in mock up and not bolted down...

[sully75]

Thanks! I should have said, this is a mockup. I just pulled the old bowsprit thing off and I'm rebuilding the deck structure. Below is the "before". Nothing on it really worked very well and it also created some moisture damage which I'm fixing now.

I've backed the whole foredeck area with 1/2" marine plywood. The boat is old, I was concerned about the moisture damage and I wanted to be able to really crank on the windlass if I needed to. The windlass comes with a backing plate.

As far as backing plates for everything else, could I use 1/4" G10 instead of SS? I actually hadn't really thought of backing plates, I was hoping that the plywood I installed underneath would provide enough backing + fender washers for everything. I'm hearing "no" on that?

The position the roller is in now will have the Mantus clearing the drum. But it does prevent me from putting the fairlead in front of the bow rail. So that what I'm trying to figure out...is there a real problem if the fairleads are a bit aft?

I think I read you wrong initially...you're saying that if I want to use the fairleads where they are, I should put the cleats forward of where they are in the picture?

I have a bunch of stainless pad eyes to install for a harness system. I'm planning on permanent pad eyes as I'll be mostly singlehanding and don't think I'll be pulling the lines very often.

I'd really rather not make another "bowsprit" type structure because I feel like it puts a lot of leverage over the bow and I don't see the point. I may end up not using the forward set of bolt holes on the roller but I'm pretty sure I can do without them as long as the forward end is supported on the toe rail.

Thanks, I appreciate your advice!


Here's the "Before":

[sully75]

oh and I have an oval chain pipe that I bought that I was planning on putting under the chain gypsy on the windlass.

[Zach]

Leave enough room to slide a clevis pin through the gap to install the forestay with your mock up... Add the toggle width to it!

[sully75]

Zach the bottom picture is the old setup that I removed. That was the one that had the roller right up against the headstay. It sucked...

[sully75]

Would 1/4" g10 work for backing plates?


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[markpierce]

With a heavy-duty anchor roller, attachment points for forestay and and roller-furled jib can be an integral part of the anchor roller (forestay and jib not installed when this photo was taken) and avoid interference:

[Ex-Calif]

Originally Posted by markpierce

With a heavy-duty anchor roller, attachment points for forestay and and roller-furled jib can be an integral part of the anchor roller (forestay and jib not installed when this photo was taken) and avoid interference:

Yeah - that's what I was eluding to earlier as the "hard" way. Now you gotta shorten the forestay, recut the genoa etc. But it makes sense from a clean installation standpoint.

Sully - my fairlead comment was to eliminate them - why do you need them?

Stick the cleats on the rail and tie of at the rail.

I still think in your case some sort of purpose designed sprit is useful. You have the anchor roller and forestay competing for the same real estate. Unless you move the anchor roller or the forestay it will be an exercise in getting them as close as possible to each other without them interfering each other and then every time you do a sail change or every time you work with the anchor you'll say - I wish these damn things weren't in the way.

Tough decision.

[markpierce]

This photo better shows the very adequate clearance but unfortunately includes me:



But merely shortening the jib a bit and raising the furler so it rides higher should accomplish the same thing.

[Stu Jackson]

I agree with Mar, raise the drum.

Singlehanded Anchor Retrieval & Chain Hook Flix

The drum's so high it's out of the picture!

[Ex-Calif]

Originally Posted by markpierce

This photo better shows the very adequate clearance but unfortunately includes me:



But merely shortening the jib a bit and raising the furler so it rides higher should accomplish the same thing.

Wow - you can look at something 100 times and miss the obvious...

Your photo prompted me to go back and look at Sully's first proposal.

With the anchor roller in the first position - no sprit - I am not sure the anchor when stowed is not going to be fouling on the bow itself - i.e. will the hook clear?

That could be a show stopper.