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Cadence · 20-03-2018, 08:26

God bless you with a wooden boat in a not so great condition.

kismet · 20-03-2018, 08:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by CanadianAlien

Also! In your experience do you think I would need a crane to step it?
it's 30 ft.
Nautical novice right here <<
only ever sailed a 28' clipper
So.. Mast, bowsprit, boom.
I've gotta sort this out by Friday to get it stepped or it will cost more in the future.

By the looks and sound of things, it will most certainly cost more in the future.

CanadianAlien · 20-03-2018, 09:51

Thank you all so very much! , I am understanding the rigging more now.
Getting someone with more experience rigging different boats to come help me figure out exactly what I'm missing first hand.

So richard, first I should sand the beast right?
It's got lots of old peeling lacquer,
then coat the wood in linseed oil 3-5 times.
then move onto your recipe?
or use your recipe to replace the linseed oil entirely?
After this should I stain and lacquer the wood as well?

If anyone is interested my lady and I keep an Instagram about our adventures out on the sea, @boatbugatti

a video I took fishing with some friends in a cove

the boat is named after a lake or sea monster, Tsayta, planning on asking some natives in the area of Tsayta lake if they have any stories about a lake monster.

ArmyDaveNY · 20-03-2018, 12:00

It might help if you can lay out the main sail. It's always possible that you have a gaff rigged main sail. If you do the sail would be would be roughly trapezoidal.

Based upon the photos my first guess is you have, as pointed out already, a mast, a boom, and a bowsprit. If it turns out it isn't a bowsprit, it may be a gaff. Good luck.

**TrentePieds** · 20-03-2018, 12:27

Alien:

That video depicts somewhere in the Salish Sea, though there is no feature on the shore distinctive enuff that I can tell just where it is.

I'm near Vancouver this week, and I'll be in Ladysmith just before Easter. If you are anywhere within reasonable distance of me, I can come and give the boat a butcher's for you.

If you think I can help you, drop me a private message via this forum :-)

TP

seasick · 20-03-2018, 13:11

I am curious if this is a vessel built by John T. Taylor in 1968?

It could be that the spar with the flattened end (notched) is the gaff minus the cheek blocks. In that the mast has a sheave a foot down from the top leads me to believe Tsayta is a gaff rigged vessel possibly with a loose footed main (no boom.)

You will be pleased by the improved motion, rock & roll of your boat once the mast is up.

Richard5 · 20-03-2018, 13:52

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cadence

God bless you with a wooden boat in a not so great condition.

I second the honor.

Cadence · 20-03-2018, 13:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by seasick

I am curious if this is a vessel built by John T. Taylor in 1968?

It could be that the spar with the flattened end (notched) is the gaff minus the cheek blocks. In that the mast has a sheave a foot down from the top leads me to believe Tsayta is a gaff rigged vessel possibly with a loose footed main (no boom.)

You will be pleased by the improved motion, rock & roll of your boat once the mast is up.

Maybe not a loose foot he still has one more spar of some kind. My money is on a gaff rig.

Richard5 · 20-03-2018, 14:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by CanadianAlien

Thank you all so very much! , I am understanding the rigging more now.
Getting someone with more experience rigging different boats to come help me figure out exactly what I'm missing first hand.

So richard, first I should sand the beast right?
It's got lots of old peeling lacquer,
then coat the wood in linseed oil 3-5 times.
then move onto your recipe?
or use your recipe to replace the linseed oil entirely?
After this should I stain and lacquer the wood as well?

You're moving forward!

I am not too fond of sanding especially with the wood in the condition as it appears in your case. I would scrape the existing lacquer. It will likely come up easily in small chips. Just concentrate on getting the lacquer off.

Then start applying linseed with turpentine. It will soak into that thirsty would right before your eyes. I reckon you have some mahogany, spruce, teak, maybe some white oak.

After the wood has soaked up enough - you can tell when the time to soak in begins to lengthen, you can sand. This because the oil will raise the wood grain anyway. Then, any sanding is just a light scuff to bond flatten the grain and bond the next coat.

If you have opened grain and splinters then sanding is not the right process.

Only after the would has regain it's luster would you start with the shellac or bees wax. And no need to stain as that mixture imparts a rich color in the wood. It's gorgeous.

hamburking · 20-03-2018, 14:37

A beautiful boat like that may have a gaff as well as a boom. I suggest you layout the main sail and take some measurements. And count the sides...3 or 4? You have what looks like a beautiful boat. But I suggest you read a book about sailing before posting again...so we can get past the nomenclature and focus on your rigging. Best of luck to you. And more pictures please!!!

CanadianAlien · 21-03-2018, 08:50

It was built by John T. Taylor!

Thanks so much for the info.
Taking measurements of sails today!

Capt_Lima · 21-03-2018, 09:14

I would agree that the spar with the square-ish end would be the the bowsprit, there is a piece that goes over the top called a cranse iron, it should look similar to the stainless crotch on the top of the stem all the way forward. It doesn't look to me like you don't have a gooseneck (part the attaches the boom, the other shorter spar) to the mast, but don't worry about that yet. I also didn't see a sail track for the mainsail on the mast, but some of the older woodies used to lace their sails to the mast, or use mast hoops, (personally given the choice I would have laces as they are easier on the masts finish) now to get into the rigging.
Right near the waterline all the way forward there should be something that resembles a padeye with straps that angle back and down from the stem, this is where the bobstay attaches to the hull (piece of standing rigging that holds the bow sprit down, and is usually a non corrosive chain but I have seen wire used, if it's missing and you have the choice go with stainless chain, it's worth the price lasts much better than the wire and you'll be glad you did) from there it goes to a collar on the end of the bowsprit and scratches to the bottom, leading up and aft from there we switch to wire, and that leads to the top of the mast to another collar on the forward side of the mast. Now on either side of the masthead collar there are two more points (one each side) and these are used to attach the shrouds, these lead down to the chainplates ( on old wood boats usually straps that run down the side of the hull toward the waterline and sometimes angled slightly forward) the shrouds are attached to the chainplates via turnbuckles, which are used to apply even tension on the shrouds to keep the mast vertical. Spreaders may or may not be present depending on the vessels age and rig( if the mast is taller than the length of the boat assume that they are missing, and have a rigger come take a look at things)
Now for the back stay there are quite a few ways these were done the most usual being a double backstay, or a split back stay, either way you will see 2 hard points at or near the quarters (corners where the transom meets the sides) I see no reason that if the rigging is missing to not go with a split backstay.
But all that is just my two cents, also i see no reason why a sail track couldn't be added to the mast and boom. Again just my 2 cents.

seasick · 21-03-2018, 09:31

On second look, I'd say that the spar with the flattened end is the bowsprit and that the flattened end gets sandwiched in between the upright Sampson posts at the bow.