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Old 17-09-2010, 03:39   #16
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[QUOTE=estarzinger;522021]Did you try moving the sheeting point out to the toe rail?

/QUOTE]

The boat has a teak toe rail with no fittings to attach snatch blocks that far forward, I suppose I could have tried to use the D ring usewd for the spinnamker guy, at least that will take the sheet outboard some. Give it a go next time.
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Old 17-09-2010, 06:45   #17
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[QUOTE=nigel1;522997]
Quote:
Originally Posted by estarzinger View Post
Did you try moving the sheeting point out to the toe rail?

/QUOTE]

The boat has a teak toe rail with no fittings to attach snatch blocks that far forward, I suppose I could have tried to use the D ring usewd for the spinnamker guy, at least that will take the sheet outboard some. Give it a go next time.
Just looking at some pics on B473 foredeck & toerail and see what you mean - not many attachment points up there. You might be able to lash a snatch block to one of the stanchion bases, if they are strong enough and happen to be in roughly the right place. Running deep the block loads are a lot less than upwind.

We move the jib sheeting out to the toerail when the wind goes aft of about 60 or 70 degrees, and you can see a noticable improvement in jib shape and boat speed. Unfortunately, the designers figure you are hoisting a chute at that point and the builders want to save money, so neither bother with correct jib sheeting points for sailing at any point other than quite close.

We also have preventer connection points on the toerail, which happen to be at exactly the right point for sheeting our biggest staysail.
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Old 17-09-2010, 07:52   #18
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Racing? 180 to the wind, with preventer on, and the sails goosewinged. It's the fastest path between B and A!

Cruising? Depends what's comfortable, but probably still 180 to the wind with less sail!
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