Hawse hole... Only half-completed? Rope slips out... So Weld shut?

[SteelCruiser]

I bought a steel yacht, one reason because then I can attach stuff to it with some sense that they won't simply rip off at the first big tug.
Like big mooring cleats etc.

However, the previous owner / builder made the hawse holes only half round.

See picture

So the rope can easily jump out as she bucks and rears to any swell.... And then there be bigger issues of chafe etc.
I'm thinking that having a welder weld on a part-round piece to complete the circle would be one solution.

Suggestions ? Other ideas?


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[FSMike]

Being that they're open, I would call them chocks instead of hawse pipes. If you don't like them being open I see no reason why you shouldn't weld them closed, as long as there are no rough edges left behind.

[steve77]

First, some others will probably chime in here for proper nautical nomenclature. What you are referring to as a "hawse hole', I would call a fairlead.

You are correct in that your docklines or anchor bridle may jump out of the fairlead. However, there is a lot of convenience in being able to drop your lines in from an opening at the top. Perhaps it would be worth it to leave a one inch opening in the middle to allow this, while still keeping the line from easily jumping out.

And you are absolutely correct that you want the fairlead to be as rounded as possible to avoid chafe. Are you in a location where you can walk the docks and look at solutions others have come up with?

Cheers!

Steve

[StuM]

I generally find that hawse holes are a PITA and much prefer a chock. But those ones are very open.

I'd go along with welding horn extension(s) on but leave a gap so that you can still drop your largest line and any anti-chafe gear through it.

[UNCIVILIZED]

IMO, Probably the best option would be to weld in pieces which have a sliding top gate. So that they can be "opened & closed", much as is an anchor shackle. Only in this case, they'd obviously have a much wider opening, & space for more heavy line(s) than does a standard shackle.

But if you configure them this way, & so that the "shackle pins" both; stay locked open, when opened; as well as locked shut, when closed. All of this, sans tools; in both instances.
And so that the "gate pins" are configured so that they're out of the way, & cannot accidentally get bent when the fair leads ("shackles") are open. Then you pretty much get the best of both worlds.

Basically something which looks & functions much like this WINDLINE LOCKING LINE CHOCK Windline LC1 Sailboat Supplies, Engine Parts and Boat Parts
But with a bit more room inside of it when closed, so as to accomadate multiple large diameter lines, when wrapped with heavy chafing gear.
And they need to be designed so that the pin both locks open & closed, as well as being protected from bending/damage, as described above.

Although if you want a KISS solution, you could just have some large, stainless steel, Wichard shackles with captive, self-locking pins welded into those locations. Perhaps even having 2 such shackles welded into each opening, with small gussets welded into the spaces in between them, to fill up the space. And to more firmly secure things in place.

However, a Crosby shackle, with a threaded cross pin, with a hole for a safety wire in it's end, might be even better. But it'd be a bit more abrasive on lines, due to it's galvanized finish. Vs. the slick, polished surfaces of a stainless shackle.
I'm speaking of ones akin to these http://www.thecrosbygroup.com/catalo...or-shackles-4/

That said, I'm sure that you could have someone make up a hybrid of the two shackle types. Having the best features of both. And that used a common sized stainless bolt for it's cross pin. After drilling it's end for a ring, or split pin, of course. Plus drilling a hole for a retention, safety wire into the bolt's head. So that it can't accidentally go swimming.

Also, there are bolts specifically made to function as locking cross pins. In that they have a small slot cut into their tips, which house pivoting, rectangular metal cross pieces. Who's function is to keep the cross pin from accidentally opening up.
But sadly, I don't know the correct terminology for such an item, or who might make them. Perhaps another CF member does?

[JPA Cate]

Steel Cruiser, does the boat have all chain rode?

If so, you will not have a problem at anchor, because chain is heavy, and will hold the bridle or snubber line down, and it will be cleated off to that good sized sampson post on your foredeck to secure it to. If you've had line at anchor pop out of there, I think you need more chain below. At the dock, having those open chocks is brilliant, easy to tie up, in such a way they won't try and come out.

If you and the boat are somewhere there is a huge tide range, you will want to spring the boat fore and aft, as well as securing it bow and stern. This will allow you to go up and down with the tides, but still stay located centrally between piles or cleats on a dock that is non-gloating.

ann -- who thinks if it isn't broke, don't fix it.

[Jim Cate]

There is a common solution to this problem: On the outboard aft side of the opening weld a stout pin leading forward and covering around 2/3 of the gap. On the inboard forward side of the opening, weld a similar pin leading aft. Arrange the pins so that there is a gap between them, large enough to pass the largest line that you plan to use between the pins. You can then slip the unloaded line oriented fore and aft between the pins, but when it is loaded it can not escape.

I'm kinda knackered right now or I'd draw a diagram of this system and figure out how to post it, but i bet you can visualize it.

Jim

[Terra Nova]

A proper chock has its opening on an angle so the line cannot easily pop out.

[Triumphant]

We used 5/16 Stainless steel bar for ours when we replaced the rusty mild steel ones that we inherited which solved the rust problem and smoother on the ropes (We also made the holes bigger)

[reed1v]

Looks like those chocks were designed for chain, not rope. Chain needs room to jump. Cover those chocks and chain will jam.

[Cadence]

Originally Posted by StuM

I generally find that hawse holes are a PITA and much prefer a chock. But those ones are very open.

I'd go along with welding horn extension(s) on but leave a gap so that you can still drop your largest line and any anti-chafe gear through it.

Stu has my preference. You make hawse holes out of them by closing them off. Do you want to only be able to use them by threading a line through them?

[Cadence]

Originally Posted by Cadence

Stu has my preference. You make hawse holes out of them by closing them off. Do you want to only be able to use them by threading a line through them?

PS, You may want to angle the forward extension outboard and the aft one inboard. Chamfering or rounding the ends.

[Orion Jim]

Mine are bronze with a stainless pin which is retractable and captive. You may want to use this as an example to design your replacement or modification. This is a 32 year old Spartan Marine fitting. Still good as new