[EDIT: THE WHIPPING SHOWN BELOW DOES NOT WORK. SEE SEVERAL ALTERNATIVES WAYS OF CAPTURING THE RING DEVELOPED IN THE THREAD BELOW.]
Ropework is not one of my -- ahem -- several talents. I don't know why, but I don't have the right kind of imagination for it. I like ropes, but alas -- they don't seem to like me. I have difficulty following the various types of instructions, especially the videos which are now so popular.
However, splicing muss sein
, and lots of it. We changed back to my blade jib
from the yankee in anticipation of a 1000 miles of bashing upwind, and I needed to put together at last the final dyneema
strops with low friction eyes which I use for sheet leads. Besides that, tons of other uses for these have appeared, such as turning blocks, snatch blocks for barber haulers, etc., etc. I need about 8 of them.
I struggled with different ways of doing them. The last batch had brummel eyes at either end, both put around the low friction ring, then seized in place. I had initially thought, foolishly, that I could make the eyes tight around the low friction ring -- hah. But a little seizing solved
That seemed like a decent solution, but I spend a day on a Swan 60 racer
with dozens of these all over (and not a conventional block in sight), which were simple spliced loops with a velcro seizing -- nice. And I realized that a simple spliced loop would probably be stronger and more elegant, and that retaining the ring is not really the biggest problem.
So I struggled through different instructions on making spliced loops, and finally hit upon one which made sense to me, here: Grog Sling | How to tie the Grog Sling | Splicing Knots
As usual the instructions were as clear as mud, so I decided that maybe I could help other sailors who lack the ropework gene by explaining in a more straightforward way how to do it.
So here's how I'm now doing it, and it takes less than 10 minutes per strop.
1. Gather your tools. I am now using the expensive but worth it D-Splicer and the special dyneema
scissors from them (even more expensive and even more worth it). This is not necessary. You can use a really sharp knife and a piece of monel seizing wire instead, and this works almost as well. But the D-Splicer tools are a real pleasure which many will find worthwhile.
So -- splicer (or monel wire), scissors (or sharp knife). Then: Ball point pen, ruler, sail needles, waxed whipping twine, the raw material (I'm using 6mm 12 strand single
2. Measure off 1.65 meters of your single
braid and cut it off.
3. Middle it, and mark the mid-point with the ball point pen.
4. Middle it again, and mark the two quarter-points with the ball point pen.
5. Make two marks down-rope from the two quarter points, about an inch down. This is where you'll do the brummel thread-throughs.
6. Take your ball point pen, scrunch the rope
together a bit at one of the thread-through points, then gently stick the pen through and expand the rope
around it to open up an eye. Let's call that leg "A".
7. Thread the other leg, "B", through the eye you just made in "A".
8. Now make a similar eye at the thread-through point in leg "B", and thread the end of leg "A" through it, and snug these two points together.
9. Now, take your splicing tool (or monel wire), and stick it into the rope at the mid point. Scrunch the rope up to expand and open it up, then gently thread the splicing tool down through the hollow center until you reach the interlocked brummel eyes. Let the splicing tool come out just opposite the leg which is obvious for threading through that leg, and a couple of strands away from the interlocked brummel eyes.
10. Then grab the end of that leg in your splicing tool, and gently thread it through, expanding the outer part so that the inner part can go through easily. In practice, it's just a little tricky to get the end inside, after which it goes right through. Pull the inner part all the way out, scrunching up and pulling back the outer part as much as possible to get it out of the way.
11. Now taper the inner part. Snip alternate left and right strands at even intervals.
12. Now "milk" the outer part down over the inner part.
13. Repeat with the other side and you're doing with the loop.
14. Now put your low friction ring in place. I am putting it right where the interlocked brummel eyes make a bump.
15. Take a piece of whipping twine and thread your sail needle with it. Stick it through both legs of the rope, wrap the two ends in opposite directions and tie them down with a reef knot.
16. Cut the thread at the middle where the needle is, and wrap both ends in opposite directions. Tie them off with a reef knot, and trim the loose ends.
15. Secure the ring using one of the methods developed in the thread below.
1.65 meters of 6mm dyneema yields a 450mm long strop -- a handy length.
This is a full 72x long bury which should be nearly the full strength of the rope.
It's not very pretty (I am in awe of those talented rope-workers on here like Seaworthy
Lass who are able to make these into works of art, but that is beyond my meagre talents), but strong and good.
It's possible that there are some mistakes
in the technique, which is partially derived from different instructions, and partially intuited (dangerous coming from me), so I will be grateful if any more knowledgeable person will point out any flaws.