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Old 16-07-2016, 08:19   #46
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Re: Down and Dirty Dyneema Strops

[QUOTE=sneuman;2167547]Dyneema is easy to splice. That, I will give it. For anything else, it is highly overrated,

Over time you learn a few tricks. An easy way to tighten them up is to stick a piece of core inside a section of lifeline. 2' of 1/8" line will do wonders. Use turnbuckles instead of lashings is the best thing you can do. Little bits of cover here and there to protect wear spots.
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Old 16-07-2016, 08:32   #47
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Re: Down and Dirty Dyneema Strops

[QUOTE=Guy;2167559]
Quote:
Originally Posted by sneuman View Post
Dyneema is easy to splice. That, I will give it. For anything else, it is highly overrated,

Over time you learn a few tricks. An easy way to tighten them up is to stick a piece of core inside a section of lifeline. 2' of 1/8" line will do wonders. Use turnbuckles instead of lashings is the best thing you can do. Little bits of cover here and there to protect wear spots.
Never heard the first one. Not sure I entirely understand it. I have used stainless turnbuckles -- and lost three overboard when they spun out (despite being drum-tight, locked-in with nuts and Locktite).
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Old 16-07-2016, 10:32   #48
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Re: Down and Dirty Dyneema Strops

Here are the instructions for the above binding.

I have used 2mm double braid in the photos below, as the direction of the turns was hard to pick using the uniformly grey 2mm dyneema.

In the actual dyneema version above the low tension ring had a centre opening of 25mm. The strop was roughly equivalent to the thickness of 8mm dyneema with a central bury. The number of turns of binding I used was 8 on each side. Around 1.4 of 2mm dyneema was needed (I had cut 1.5m).

Note: The pattern of the turns used is not critical, nor is the number used. They are just used to lightly grip the dyneema loop, allowing it to still slide freely.
I tried a simpler cross over pattern, but the binding just felt too floppy. You can experiment and see what pattern appeals most. I found this one snug, while allowing the ends to be fed up easily still once the "lacing" was done.

Find the halfway mark, place it near the end of the main loop (the position is not important as the "lacing" will freely slide when it comes time to insert the ring) with one end passing under and one over the two legs. Leave the two legs just a little further apart than the low tension ring hole diameter:

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Old 16-07-2016, 10:48   #49
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Re: Down and Dirty Dyneema Strops

Definately like the approach SL. As it's purpose is only to keep the ring in place I might go with a less expensive more UV resistant line. I'm a fan of siene twine but that doesn't always fit.

Below is the benzel siezing I mentioned. This is with siezing twine and too small for the application, but it's all I have at the moment. For this I would probably use #40 black seine twine. It's started with a clove hitch and stopper knot but could be done a bunch of cleaner ways.

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Old 16-07-2016, 10:49   #50
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Re: Down and Dirty Dyneema Strops

after the wraps alternating hitches in the center. It can also be brought all the way around continuing the hitches on the other side depending on the size

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Old 16-07-2016, 10:50   #51
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Re: Down and Dirty Dyneema Strops

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Old 16-07-2016, 10:51   #52
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Re: Down and Dirty Dyneema Strops

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Old 16-07-2016, 10:52   #53
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Re: Down and Dirty Dyneema Strops

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Old 16-07-2016, 10:53   #54
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Re: Down and Dirty Dyneema Strops

This is leatherer one with a basic siezing, I'm not quite the purist on the angle so this works for me.

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Old 16-07-2016, 10:56   #55
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Re: Down and Dirty Dyneema Strops

Its just a stitched leather sock for UV. I am working on a boot and will post when its done. The strop was loaded tight on a primary winch to set the leather and strop in the ring then siezed.

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Old 16-07-2016, 11:29   #56
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Re: Down and Dirty Dyneema Strops

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cruisingscotts View Post
Definately like the approach SL. As it's purpose is only to keep the ring in place I might go with a less expensive more UV resistant line. I'm a fan of siene twine but that doesn't always fit.

Below is the benzel siezing I mentioned. This is with siezing twine and too small for the application, but it's all I have at the moment. For this I would probably use #40 black seine twine. It's started with a clove hitch and stopper knot but could be done a bunch of cleaner ways.
Many thanks for posting that. I was not familiar with benzel seizing and googling it proved fruitless.

It is a useful way of keeping the legs apart to widen the throat angle. It would need to grip the loop fairly firmly not to slide down though. I wonder if it would work tied loosely and the whipping twine looped over the ring under the dyneema loop. I like the idea of the legs of the loop being able to move freely to even out the load. Velcro has a lot going for it .

The leather work looks interesting. Probably particularly useful in providing chafe protection, UV bothers me less.

I'll have a play with this method later.

Again, thanks.

SWL
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Old 16-07-2016, 11:59   #57
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Re: Down and Dirty Dyneema Strops

So, the first step is the "lacing".
Basically this is just a means of keeping the legs a reasonable way apart.
You can experiment with what kind of lacing you like and how many turns you would like to give. It is not critical.

I found the pattern below filled the gap between the legs nice and snuggly.

Wind loosely, keeping the legs well apart initially. I kept them about 30mm apart for this ring, narrowing the gap as I went down.

Follow this under and over sequence:











This is how it looks after 4 turns on each side:




I stopped when I had 8 turns. You can use more or less:



At this stage grip the lacing on either side at the top and wriggle and tug. As you go down, dont pull the legs apart as much, but just wriggle it. This will even out the lacing nicely.
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Old 16-07-2016, 12:06   #58
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Re: Down and Dirty Dyneema Strops

Finish with an overhand knot as shown below. This puts the ends in a nice position to be fed under:


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Old 16-07-2016, 12:08   #59
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Re: Down and Dirty Dyneema Strops

Then just feed the ends up as shown. Everything is so loose that you can just use your fingers. No tools are needed.

Give the lacing another wriggle to even it out.
Dont tugs on the ends yet. Leave them looking like this:


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Old 16-07-2016, 12:23   #60
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Re: Down and Dirty Dyneema Strops

Next push the lacing down.
Insert the ring.
Cross the ends (see later photo, I forgot to photograph the crossing here). This will help grip the ring and eliminate the risk of it popping out.
Push the lacing up until it lies lightly against the ring.
Press the centre of the lacing between your fingers to make it nice and smooth.
Finally tug on the ends to pull them neatly through the lacing. Dont overtighten as it bunches up the lacing.



I think I was in a hurry to have dinner so I must have skipped photographing each of these little steps. If anything is unclear let me know and I will take more photos.
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