Originally Posted by estarzinger
This is really in the vast category of "decorative work" where there is a ton of history
but it is not well documented.
I have only done a cursory examination of the approaches. Essentially you have two "systems" for maintaining the trapezoid - on option is various crosses and hitches in the whipping between the two main strands. You see a cross in the pretty pic you posted. These prevent consecutive wraps from slipping over each other, and some to varying degrees also clamp the main strands. The second option is staggered central 90 degree turns - like the central turns you used, but staggered so there are more at the top than the bottom.
If one or a couple of us played around with this and agreed on a good/best approach a bet grog would list it on his site with credit, because there is not (to my knowledge) an agreed documented best solution.
I suspect for development it would be easier to work with a huge scale prototype - like 3/4" main strands and Para cord whipping. Next time I get to out storage
shed I will try to remember to pull out some material to work with.
Thanks for all this info, plus that on lock stitching.
A CF team effort should be able to come up with something good regarding the trapezoid shaped whipping. Anyone here with decorative rope
work skills that can chime in? Apart from a Turk's Head, my knowledge and skills are next to zero when it comes to decorative rope
work so I am handicapped here, not that this will stop me trying
. I will have a play with this later.
Regarding the general concept
of securing a low tension ring, I think it would help to know what would be the ideal features we are aiming for.
Here are my thoughts:
• The low tension ring is secure when used - we shouldn't lose sight of the primary aim
• The binding is secure, it should not have any tendency to slide down
• The strength of the strop is not compromised, so:
- The throat angle of the dyneema is soft near the ring (min 2:1)
- Minimal stress is put on the dyneema with the binding (no tight clamping or separation of the strands)
• Relatively quick
• Suits the skills of most people tying these strops
• Doesn't need lots of equipment
or hard to source supplies
• Not offensive to the eye
Any comments or anything else to add?
Looking at the list, my thought is that all this would be hard to achieve with whipping twine or paracord alone. I would love to learn how to do the trapezoid whipping such as you posted a photo
of and it would be fantastic to have online instructions for this, but this would almost certainly not be a quick thing to do and a lot of patience would be needed to get the symmetry and tension right. It probably would not suit most people making these strops for low tension rings.
Given that I think complicated whipping falls short of an ideal solution for binding the ring, at the moment my thoughts go back to using 2mm cord. It does not cut into the dyneema and it is also very forgiving when it comes to precision. Its bulk makes it quick to work with.
I had a go using some 2mm double braid a few weeks ago (see photo
in post #29 above), but it was awkward and looked a bit clunky, as securing braid neatly was not easy. To hide ends of the braid, I buried them in the spliced dyneema (I doubt this is a good thing to do).
I think the easiest way of securing the loose ends and hiding them would be to use 2mm dyneema, not double braid, and simply splice the ends together around the low tension ring.
So with that in mind, I gave it a go.
Here is the result. The reverse side looks absolutely identical:
I think it meets all the criteria except for the last item on my list above. It used 1.4 m of 2mm dyneema. This is not as cheap
as whipping twine or cord or even velcro, but then again it would not add a lot to the total cost of the strop and ring.
The dyneema strop can actually run reasonably freely around the ring, which I really like. This means regardless of how the strop is finally secured, the tension in the two legs can equalise easily. The binding can't slide down, but the strop is not penetrated at all.
I think the binding is secure. The dyneema cord is spliced around the ring.
Before I go to the trouble of writing instructions and taking photos to explain the procedure, what do you think of the concept