Wrap with elec tape and use a good 24 tooth hacksaw blade. A starret blade for example. Two blades will do a dozen lines easy.
I use a wood block with a hole drilled and a slot for the blade.
I prefer to avoid using cutoff tools due to the potential for heat induced microstructural changes. I wont bore you with the details but a background in aerospace welding (as a welder) and a masters of engineering in materials welding and joining means I dont like the potential for carbide migration and accelerated corrosion
from friction cutoff methods. These are not approved for load certification
methods so are not applicable for standing rigging IMHO. Microstructural analysis shows why this is so.
A dremel will not have the grunt to do the job.
It takes only a few seconds by hacksaw. Hint remove the paint
from the blade first.
Your biggest problem will be to find good ss wire. There is so much crap on the market that it's getting very difficult to determine the provenance of wire.
I recently rerigged with Alps wire sourced from Korea
and Staloks. I requested batch certification
data but have no way of knowing how good it is. Based on some early observations I'm starting my own parallel corrosion
and exposure test. The Staloks I love.
I wont trust swaged fittings after watching a few riggers and their old worn equipment
. I have good experience with swaging back in the 90s but that was with well maintained machines and a companion test program.
I consider Staloks to have the following advantages / disadvantages over swaging:
1) more consistent when built by me. (than riggers / machines I dont know)
2) similar price
3) should be assembled with sealant
to exclude moisture for lower fittings. (not mentioned in oem assembly procedure)
4) allow rigging to be replaced line by line. Which was more convenient for us in water
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