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Old 27-02-2009, 08:43   #46
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Often the big double Bowlines would hang up on my staysail stay....
They do not only hang up, but way too often also break the UV-protection of the staysail. I just sent mine to NortSails to be fixed. I asked them to sew in a harder piece on that very spot. Would there have been a smarter way to protect the staysail from the genoa sheet knots going back and forth?
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Old 01-03-2009, 15:42   #47
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OK Guys the whipping I use works and you can still tie and untie the sail providing you have left about a foot before the whipping. I reckon rigging tape will certainly work short time.
Hud3 says
"That knot is called a "Lark's Head", and slides through the slot nicely. That's what I use."
I'm not (knot haha) farmiliar with this knot any details will be gratefully received by me (and probably many others).
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Old 02-03-2009, 08:21   #48
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You need a one piece line to use as both sheets. Bend a loop at the center point of the line. Pass the loop a few inches through the clew cringle and then just pass the ends through the loop. pull the ends all the way through. It is very strong and makes an almost non existant knot. Doesnt chafe either because it's tight on the cringle.
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Old 02-03-2009, 16:04   #49
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You need a one piece line to use as both sheets. Bend a loop at the center point of the line. Pass the loop a few inches through the clew cringle and then just pass the ends through the loop. pull the ends all the way through. It is very strong and makes an almost non existant knot. Doesnt chafe either because it's tight on the cringle.
Oh right we call that a 'cow hitch'
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Old 02-03-2009, 19:01   #50
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The trouble with knots is a cow hitch is the same knot as a larks head. Technically, the cow hitch has a bitter end. The lark's head is associated with macramé and does not.
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Old 02-03-2009, 19:44   #51
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Some have called it a "Yankee", but seeing as the boat is named The Belle of Virginia, I rejected that appelation.
I run a yankee and staysail on our cutter rig; works like a champ. The staysail is on a boom so it's self tacking. Never had any problems.

I'm not a genoa guy anyway; in good wind we'll run the yankee and staysail together, and in strong wind the staysail with a reefed main makes the boat quite well balanced. I favor a drifter for light winds; folds up nicely and barely takes any room (compared to a full genoa, at least).
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Old 02-03-2009, 21:10   #52
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Before using your genoa in high winds like 40-50 knots, check the windspeed it was designed for. Most of them are for 25 knots... apparent wind!!

The reason for not using foam is mildew and deteriation. Best thing to do in high winds is furl it completely and set a staysail or smaller jib.

When we ordered new sails we decided to do without the foam (our old jib did have it) but we reduced the size from 100% to 95%. We also used hydranet material instead of dacron and tri-radial cut instead of cross-cut. The result is a much faster sail with less surface area. It still works okay for furling it a bit but we almost never need that because the new material and cut (and 5% less surface) let it keep it's shape so much better (can be pulled flat as a blade) in high winds that furling isn't needed up to 25 knots.

I think too many cruisers concentrate on big size (wow! 140%) genoa's but forget that for anything other than downwind sailing, the shape is more important (and there's better sails for downwind anyway). Combined with the trend for changing to in-mast furling it is something I have a hard time understanding. The main looses so much surface and the resulting shape looses so much efficiency, it's almost like one tries to make up for that with a bigger genoa. But that results in a unbalanced sailplan, way too much heeling and so much less performance that it's no wonder many choose to use the engine instead... hmpff, got that off my chest ;-)

Catamarans do better; they tend to go more and more to high efficiency, full battened, big roach bat-wing-shaped mainsails so that today almost all of them have that. Shame they put that rig on two hulls with some sticks in between ;-)

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Old 03-03-2009, 22:35   #53
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I've used both having the staysail up and what I thought was called the "trycing line" . Both work. Leaving the staysail up is easier. We were having to short-tack up a river a few years ago; about 25 seconds per side. Leaving the (self-tending) staysail up was the only thing that could work tacks this fast. The trycing line works too but it is a bit awkward. I just led a single line from the cockpit through a turning block behind the jib furler to the jib clew; dump the jib sheet, pull the clew forward of the inner forestay, trim the opposite jib sheet while releasing the trycing line.

An additional advantage to having the staysail up in these conditions is that a cutter should point about 5 degrees closer to the wind when flying both headsails; at least mine does.

BTW, I'm sure you know that a cutter is not a sloop with an extra stay; the mast is also 5-10% DWL farther aft. For this reason you are right in not trying to remove the inner forestay. Those detachable things are for sloops masquerading as cutters.
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Old 03-03-2009, 23:03   #54
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BTW, I'm sure you know that a cutter is not a sloop with an extra stay; the mast is also 5-10% DWL farther aft. For this reason you are right in not trying to remove the inner forestay. Those detachable things are for sloops masquerading as cutters.
Exactly. And if you fit a cutter-stay on a sloop, you must add the running backstays too.

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Old 04-03-2009, 03:20   #55
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My experience is similar to Kamaloa's. Better pointing with the staysail, and better boatspeed (0.5-0.6 kts). In heavy weather, up to 45 kts or so, I still like to have some of my 110% high cut foresail rolled out, enough that it just overlaps the inner forestay.

I've tried sailing in heavy conditions with deeply reefed main and the just the staysail. Adding the heavily furled foresail adds power to help punch through steep waves. However, the only reason this works for me is that I had foam luff pads sewn in the foresail to keep it flat when roller-furled. Without the pads, the sail was a liability when heavily furled.
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Old 04-03-2009, 06:22   #56
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My experience is similar to Kamaloa's. Better pointing with the staysail, and better boatspeed (0.5-0.6 kts). In heavy weather, up to 45 kts or so, I still like to have some of my 110% high cut foresail rolled out, enough that it just overlaps the inner forestay.

I've tried sailing in heavy conditions with deeply reefed main and the just the staysail. Adding the heavily furled foresail adds power to help punch through steep waves. However, the only reason this works for me is that I had foam luff pads sewn in the foresail to keep it flat when roller-furled. Without the pads, the sail was a liability when heavily furled.
You're a braver man than I. At 45 knots I'm getting ready to heave to. 10 knots more and it's some serious stuff going on.
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Old 27-04-2009, 02:04   #57
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T-Clewring

I have recently purchased a Privilege 435 and have an inner forestay that grabs hold of the Genoa every time we do a tack. In looking for a solution I came across a company that seemed to have it sorted. I will be fitting it soon and will provide feedback.
T-Clewring, Revolutionising sail to sheet connections.
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