Originally Posted by Kestrahl
Cunningham is not really required for cruising but if you like playing with strings then you could add it.
As said all battens hang up on the lazy jacks. One idea is to have battens that feed in from the luff with adjustable box's so the aft end of the pockets can be very streamlined.
Tides track is good but requires a lot of slides so sail stack height is quite high. There are some good low friction sliders available that fit most standard tracks.
The best chafe protection is on the spreader, rather than on the sail.
A Cunningham is FAR more than just a "Racer's Toy". Unless you're REALLY into coming up head
constantly, & re-adjusting the main halyard
It's a great/the best tool for draft
control, & subsequently sail shape on the main. So, up until you reef, it's one which is in constant use as the wind
speed & angle changes. And can even be used to avoid needing that reef, if conditions are right on the edge of going back & forth between needing one & not (by cranking it on tight, & blading out the sail). Also, it can be used to flatten the sail out it's super light.
Wind don't like making sharp turns when it's moving slow.
Plus, given that it's the primary tool for draft
control, when used properly, it can add a good bit of speed, as well as keeping you from sailing on your ear. And unlike the halyard
being used for this purpose, it doesn't require you to either come up close to head to wind, or to full on flog the main (luffing hard) so that you can tune the halyard. And the bigger the boat, the more this is true/the more useful it is.
Basically it lets you tune your main (especially when used with other trim controls) from an A-cup to a C/D-cup & back, just by pulling on this one control line.
As to stack height, & what track system you choose, such is governed more by prudent choices of the type & placement of the various kinds of sliders, than it is by who makes them. Especially as, generally speaking, those from Harken & other heavy duty/pricey slides, tend to be taller, individually, than those by Tides.
So, work with your sailmaker
to place the right kinds of slides intelligently to cope with the differing loads in different sections of your main. That'll make the biggest difference in minimizing stack height.
When I'm putting together a fittings plan for a main, for me, or someone else, the easiest way is to pull out the sketch pad. And start by adding in the reefs, & their necessitated mast hardware
. And also including tack & clew, rings/blocks.
From there, you can optimize (full, & 3/4 length) batten placement, & the required mast/track hardware
Followed by general attachment points, evenly spread out so as not to create stress points in the sail/cloth. Which lets you minimize how many of them which you need.
- Ah, & it's vital too, when doing this, to have a listing of the sizes of the various slider types on hand when doing your sketching & math.
Basically, more, & beefier/longer slides in higher load areas, such as reef points & batten cars, & fewer, smaller ones where there aren't any heavy lead concentrations in the sail.
By going this way, as opposed to sticking to a semi-generic formula, you can cut the stack height by 1/3 or more.