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Old 09-01-2010, 06:29   #16
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Wait a minute, this is not something that should be advised since the length of the unsuported panel changes. Remember Euler.
Critical Load

If you are going to do this plan on new chain plates, contact a spar maker for the engineering, and talk with the yacht maker.

Will it help? Sure, you're adding horsepower (changing sa/d). Is it worth it? Seems to me you've decided it is worth it to you. What does it cost? Send out a request for bid to several spar makers and talk to your sailmaker.

Speaking from experience our boat was re-rigged in the 80's. It required new chain plates, changing from 2 to 3 spreaders and then new rigging. We are very happy that they did this for the simple reason we now cruise with non overlapping jibs. Palmer Jihnson did the work and Offshore Spars built the rig. They added 9 feet.

Good luck whatever you decide.



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Originally Posted by svHyLyte View Post
FWIW this matter has previously been discussed at length. The most simple solution is the addition of length to the bottom of the mast by using a piece of the same extrusion as the existing mast and a sleave, The mast, particularly near the base, experiences very little bending so a sleaved extension will work quite easily.
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Old 09-01-2010, 06:47   #17
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I would not extend the mast. For light conditions, invest in specialized light air sails and sheets instead. Reachers, screamers, code-zeros, big light genoas, spinnakers etc.

Like others mention, check out the hull and fair it before putting on another layer of anti fouling. Change to a folding prop.

When you increase roach, you are changing the balance of the rig. You might be able to balance by adjusting the rake of the mast but sometimes it needs to be positioned further forward so keep that in mind before ordering expensive sails and cars etc.

cheers,
Nick.
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Old 09-01-2010, 08:45   #18
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Originally Posted by s/v Jedi View Post
I would not extend the mast. For light conditions, invest in specialized light air sails and sheets instead. Reachers, screamers, code-zeros, big light genoas, spinnakers etc.

Like others mention, check out the hull and fair it before putting on another layer of anti fouling. Change to a folding prop.

When you increase roach, you are changing the balance of the rig. You might be able to balance by adjusting the rake of the mast but sometimes it needs to be positioned further forward so keep that in mind before ordering expensive sails and cars etc.

cheers,
Nick.
I am with Nick on this one - An Endevour does not feature a rapidly accelerating boat design; you'll likely heel more with negligible return on investment in speed. Best bang for the buck would likely be a good folding/feathering prop, a very clean bottom and a code zero or similar.

You also mentioned a mast high over water of <65': Are you planning on doing any ICW routes? My slip neighbor (a Passport ~46') has a 63' mast and he has already collided with a Florida ICW bridge light fixture(!)

Good luck!

Sailndive
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Old 09-01-2010, 15:06   #19
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I would first try for cheaper solutions:
- getting a few lessons from a pro trimmer,
- getting new, well designed main and jib (roached main, overlapping genoa),
- getting a light wind genoa,
- getting an MPR,

You can get much power from getting a main with plenty of roach, and a genoa with overlap. I think this alone would give you about 20% gain in SA without going for a longer stick.

b.
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Old 10-01-2010, 07:31   #20
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All good suggestions...
Thanks for taking time to post those.
Adding roach to a main is a consideration, as is a code zero jib/spiniker.
The bottom we will be redoing in a few years, hauling it out, removing all gel coat under the water line, drying it out and then re coating.
Whats a MPR barnakiel?
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Old 10-01-2010, 18:22   #21
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Multi Purpose Reacher.

Say, a half way between a light genoa (luff length same with masthead to bow distance, so it can be kept tight), and a gennaker (pretty full and made of nylon).

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Old 11-01-2010, 01:57   #22
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Be careful with adding roach to the main alone. This WILL move the centre or aerodynamic pressure further aft which will affect the balance of the boat. It will tend to point up more.
You'd need to do something similar to your normal Jib sail, more overlap?
My Prout CAT has a battened main with a big roach, I'm sure it has unbalanced the boat a good bit, or it could be poor sail trimming!
From many threads the folding prop is very cost effective, a clean bottom is next, your labour is cheap. But if you are going to replace the standing rigging and sails, well that's the time to make the decision AFTER getting the costs for design, build and install.
It does bring an older boat up to modern standards of performance but the old skipper has to be aware of a more tender boat. For a cruiser an old proven boat with a better 24hr range is useful, if you're pottering along, coast hopping, then run the engine a bit more, with a manually (hydraulic) adjustable pitch prop that feathers. Low revs when sailing in light winds keeps the speed up making sure you arrive before dark etc..
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