CDI question

[shellback]

Hey everyone!

I am running into something that I need help on.
My 1976 Oday 27 has an older CDI roller furler set up. the drum is not enclosed though (as most CDI furlers show to be).

What I'm concerned with, is when that the line that leads aft along my starboard side to the cockpit, is fed through a "feeder" which is mounted to the drum and should help keep the line coiling inside the drum when reefing the jib. However, I've noticed that when I unfurl the sail when sailing, the line doesn't coil inside the drum, rather it jumps upwards and coils above the drum. This doesn't affect the roller furling speed or function, but knowing it's not right, I want it fixed before distaster strikes.
I can probably take a digital photo of this next time I go out sailing.

is this a common problem? and how would I resolve it? FYI : the blocks that help lead the furling line aft , the first block is as close to 45 degrees from the drum, so it's not kinking up there.

[GordMay]

As with any furler, ensure that the furling line exits the drum at 90 degrees to the foil or headstay.

The pic is a newer unit (/w drum cup), but the principle is the same.

[delmarrey]

If you were to install a stanchion block to direct the line straight into the drum, would that help???



http://schaeferhardware.com//SearchR...CategoryID=380

[Maddog]

Gord has it right. Use a fairlead to guide the furling line at 90 degrees to the drum. I have a CDI and its a pretty good unit. Make sure your anti-rotation strap, (actually a metal u-bolt. Looks like a pad-eye)is in good shape. Mine sheared off and the furling line wrapped around the outside of the drum, then slipped off around the turn buckle of the forestay. Quite a mess. I spent the better pat of a .5 hour un-winding it in a 10 knt breeze and 3 foot seas. That was no fun.

[Ex-Calif]

We are probably like you. Shorter boat, shorter mast, sharper forestay angle to the deck. We have a stanchion block just like Delmarrey's photo to keep the furling line at 90 degrees to the drum.

Our problem has been some intermittent halyard wrapping ;-(

[delmarrey]

As for the furler halyard, the picture below explains the do's and don'ts in preventing halyard wrap at the mast head. Sorry about the quality, it's late. I take another tomorrow.
If you put a halyard lead a little ways down on the mast it creates a 10-15º angle so the upper bearing can not spin.

And the second picture is how mine is set for a straight shot to the drum.

[96 P-23]

My line did not exit at 90 degrees either, so it bent the drum and chafed the line. (one Harken roller short of a complete system) So I added the roller and cleaned the bearing while it was down and it works much more smoothly.

[GordMay]

The furling line should wrap onto the drum under a little tension, so either lightly restrain it by hand (when unfurling) or install a ratchet block to provide a little drag.

Ensure you are using the right diameter line, as specified by the manufacturer (some also recommend removing the core from the first 1/3 of the line on the drum).

As Del previously stated, halyard wrap is the number one reason for a jammed furling system.

[delmarrey]

Here's a better picture from the booklet above. This is for the Furlex unites, others may have a different angle but one should get the idea................._/)

[Maddog]

You can get the manual from CDI as a pdf. Google it.

[GordMay]

Excerpted from:
Fine-Tuning the Roller-Reefing System
Fine Tuning a Roller Reefing System

“... When a furling line jams in an open or a closed drum, even when the sail is completely unfurled, the sail can't be furled or reefed. First check that the furling line exits the drum at a 90-degree angle to the center of the drum.
If the line angles up, it can pile up on itself in the top of the drum; if it angles down, the same thing can happen at the bottom of the drum. Line can jump out of either the top or the bottom of an open drum, depending on the lead angle.
Make sure the furling line's lead block is mounted as close to the drum as possible; the bow pulpit is generally a good place. Lower or raise the first lead block until the exit angle is 90-degrees ...”