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Old 07-10-2015, 21:11   #1
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Basic hardware rebedding

Hey all I've got a cat27 with wooden hatch slides. There was a slight leak at two of the screws holding the slides. Time to rebed. I've bought some butyl tape and some six10. I've removed the hardware, scrapped away old dried up sealant, drilled out and countersunk larger holes, filled with six10 and let cure. I've also scraped the sealant off of the slides and I'm wondering how I should best seal the wood. I'm thinking Cetol will be my choice for the little wood work I've got, but don't want to discover later on that cetol or varnish or teak oil or polyurethane... Reacts poorly to butyl tape.

Thanks
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Old 08-10-2015, 14:09   #2
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Re: Basic hardware rebedding

Varnished handrails bedded with butyl, so far no problems or changes to the finish at all. Was actually checking them out last Sunday when we hauled out our boats for winter.
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Old 08-10-2015, 15:19   #3
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Re: Basic hardware rebedding

Butyl is dissolved by paint thinner/mineral spirits. You can bed varnished parts in Butyl but have to be careful not to flood the base of the part with varnish where the piece meets the butyl. Don't know how it works with Cetol.
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Old 08-10-2015, 16:23   #4
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Re: Basic hardware rebedding

Best thing I've found for screws in wood is squirt a little epoxy in the hole when you drive the screw. Not only does it lube and grip better, water can't work down the threads and into the wood.
Another method is an oversized hole filled with epoxy. Later drilled for the screw and again lubed with epoxy.
As a shipwright, I've seen boats I worked on come back 20 years later and the screws were still tight and no rot below. Works really good on lifeline stanchions or anything taking side force.
I use to use Boatlife Caulk, but it's got expensive enough that the tubes sit on the shelf too long. Lately the ones I've bought are half cured in the tube so I've gone to a silicone type product called Lexel. It comes in colors and clear. Has a good stretch like silicone, but is paintable.
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Old 08-10-2015, 16:54   #5
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Re: Basic hardware rebedding

Thanks Lepke, hadn't thought about polysulfides or something else being half cured on the shelf. Wonder if they have a manufactured date on them.

I did just find this fairly in-depth article for those interested in really knowing your pros and cons on the different sealants and adhesives. (Now I'm curious about an upcoming thru hull replacement, ahh yes, more to learn. Impressive to see how many sealants were labelled incompatible with plastic.) Anyway they did not have a particular recommendation for wood.

It did mention butyl not being chemically resistant, so not to use near fill valves and vents.

I'm thinking I'll go with varnish, let it cure, then bed it.
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