A DIY Sticky -> Line Care, Laundering, & Life Extension

[UNCIVILIZED]

I've created this DIY Sticky since, as we all know, modern cordage ain't cheap. And there are some common misconceptions about how best to care for running rigging, including some simple things that can be done to add YEARS to it's longevity. Especially as these questions come up so frequently.
And if this "sticky" doesn't answer your big cordage queries, by all means ask

When it comes to cleaning or washing lines: Skip the bleach, seriously!!! Ditto on anything resembling a fabric softener. As some fibers, like aramids for example (Kevlar, Technora, etc.), have serious bleach allergies. It will eat them up quite literally. And some of these chemicals are also Bad Juju for the line's proprietary anti-abrasion/anti-UV coatings (see below).

Also personally, I pass on machine washing any lines that have parallel fiber cores. Particularly the ones which have cores that are encased in a proprietary fibrous tape, such as StaSet-X for example. As I'm thinking that washing such lines in a machine, might damage the coils & stacked wraps of their internal structures. That, or possible hockle or kink such types of cores.

And, both before & after washing, make sure that you're lines are fully free of internal hockles or twists. Routinely nspecting their entire length by hand (touch) for such "herniations". As you don't want to set up the lines for a preventable, early demise. And it's good practice to check all lines for such things regularly anyway.

Otherwise, washing running rigging in the machine is okay. I've always just used a mild detergent in the washing machine. Sometimes dish soap, or even baby shampoo. And you shouldn't have a problem washing lines in most types of washers.
Then, once they're finished being washed & rinsed, just let them hang/drip dry.

If you're worried about the lines potentially jamming the washing machine spindle, seize the loops of the lines together into a large (O-shaped) coil, in several places around the perimeter. And if you like, pad the shackles with an old sock folded over several times, lashed into place.

Bottom line, you're trying to get the salt & dirt out of the fibers of the line, as that's what eats them up when they're under load, due to internal abrasion. Think of the salt crystals & dirt as tiny belt sanders inside of the line. So to get the stuff out, some mild agitation while they're being washed helps.

However, if you wash them too frequently or aggressively, you'll wash out/off the protective coatings which are built into them. Such as the Samthane on Samson Ropes.
Such coatings are what makes them shiny & slippery; both internally, & externally, when they're new. With a big part of the coating’s function being to enhance the abrasion resistance of the line; between the core & the line’s cover, as well as against external sources of wear.
As, for example, New England Ropes touts the coatings on their anchor rodes as being a key factor in what makes them significantly more abrasion resistant than other manufacturer's anchor rodes.

Also, see this thread -> http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...ml#post2153283


The biggest thing that you can do to extend the life of your running rigging is to prevent chafe, & to keep them out of the Sun. The latter is pretty easy to do, as crazy as it may sound. Simply put a reeving splice into the tail of all of your halyards & reefing lines. Which takes 10 min per line to do, if that. And once that's done, it then literally takes all of 3 min (max) to change out a halyard, or to pull it out for inspection.
https://www.jamestowndistributors.co...ing+Eye+Splice

Which, if you won't be using the boat for more than a week or two, take out your halyards, & replace them with halyard leaders. Leaders being purpose made substitute lines, made from 4-5mm cord. Stuff that costs all of $0.10/ft for example Samson Solid Braid Nylon Rope

It's fairly common to remove halyards on racing boats after every regatta for just this reason, as it extends their service lives by YEARS. So given the cost of running rigging, it's well worth doing.

Also, take steps to lessen the chafe on your running rigging by:
-> Adding an extra layer of cover onto your halyards in high wear areas, such as where they pass through line clutches, over sheaves, or are subject to heavy winching loads.
-> Paint them in high wear areas with a line protectant such as Maxi Jacket II, or RP25. It increases their lifespan by 30-50%. See the below linked post.
-> Ensure that all of your lines have fair leads.
-> Ensure that your sheaves are properly sized for your lines. Both in terms of sheave diameter (minimum 8x rope diameter), sheave width, & sheave groove profile.
-> Regularly inspect your lines for chafe. Ditto your sheaves for any scoring that will accelerate line wear & abrasion.
-> Secure them via the self-tailing jaws in a winch, or on a (traditional) horn cleat, NOT primarily by means of a line clutch or jammer. Cleat them off, & then release the load on the clutch.
-> Don't undersize your lines, thinking you'll be saving money. Stretch is pretty much the #1 line killer out there. And it’s usually caused by thin, stretchy lines (especially in/with double braid Dacron or Polyester). Since as lines stretch, their fibers rub against each other internally, as well as externally, thus wearing them out prematurely. And this movement under load also causes them to rub on sheaves, etc. Again, vastly accelerating their aging.
-> Buy low stretch lines, such as Spectra, Vectran, & Technora, etc. Including for sheets & furling lines: They cost more initially, but more than make up for this price difference in the long run. Especially Spectra, as it’s the most slippery line fiber available out there. Plus it's incredibly chafe resistant. So it vastly outlasts things like Dacron/Polyester.
-> End for end your lines regularly, so as to spread out the loading & chafe which the different sections of them routinely see. And with 12-strand single braids, when you notice chafe on their ends, snip off worn splices, & throw in a new one.

NOTE: ALL of the above also applies to; Docklines, Anchor Rodes, Roller Furling Lines, etc. With the exception of using high modulus lines for mooring & anchoring.
Maxi Jacket/Maxi Jacket II, & RP 25: What they are, & why you'll want to use them -->http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...ml#post2367869

Tips on checking running rigging for stretch, AKA excessive fiber breakdown (otherwise known as wear) -->
http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...ml#post2367470


EDIT: When storing cordage on or off of the boat for any length of time, put something in with them to keep mice at bay. Such as several old socks filled with Moth Balls, or cotton balls soaked in Peppermint Oil (replacing them regularly).
And, yep, you guessed it, storage off of the boat's usually preferred.

[rognvald]

Great job, UC! I'm going to check out the line protectant paint. Best, R

[Scot McPherson]

Originally Posted by UNCIVILIZED

EDIT: When storing cordage on or off of the boat for any length of time, put something in with them to keep mice at bay. Such as several old socks filled with Moth Balls, or cotton balls soaked in Peppermint Oil (replacing them regularly).
And, yep, you guessed it, storage off of the boat's usually preferred.

When on a boat, stowing away is often the only way to keep spare lines, but when I bring them home my preference is to coil then hang my lines. I prefer to hang them under my deck where they are out of the sun, but can get wet when it rains and not stored completely dry for over long.

New lines are different that old lines. New lines don't dry out. Old lines can and do.

[Steadman Uhlich]

UNCIVILIZED that is an outstanding post.
Thanks for taking the time to put it together.
I will refer others to it.
Good sticky!