a 1/4 inch line that doesn't twist?

[mestrezat]

We have one of the Forespar cranes on board for lifting our outboard. Over the years, the line for the lifting has frayed and is in need of replacing. So far, every line we've bought for replacement twists badly when we do the lifting making getting it up much harder. Right now, I'm using a polyester line with a polyester core or at least that's what the company that sold it to us said and it twists badly also. Once the motor is up, I have to untwist the line so it's not so bad the next time. A pain in the "A"
Anyone have any suggestions? My wife(she pulls on the line) is getting really frustrated by this.

[Sailmonkey]

Are you using good cordage? Like Yale,Samson,or New England? I would think a 1/4" dinghy control line would be perfect for this.

[Cotemar]

You may want to try Spectra, Dyneema or Amsteel which are all different brand names for the same thing.

[UNCIVILIZED]

Go to a single braid line. Also, read this thread http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...em-184089.html

[savoir]

Maybe you are putting the twists in when you hank up the line. Do you unhank the line and check that twists are removed before you lower the motor ?

[HopCar]

Take a look at Samson Accessory Cord. The call it "torque free". Not sure what that means but it might mean "doesn't twist".

Product

It's my favorite small stuff.

[mestrezat]

I bought local line(made by an unnamed company) and it twisted badly in the crane. I then had Defender ship in line(Samson I think) and it twisted also. After each time we pull up, we backtrack the line between the blocks and untangle the line not only taking it from where it joins the Motor Mate but through all the blocks and out taking the line to the bow of the boat and then slowly untwisting the line till it's straight. That's good for only the next pull at the crane, then we do it again. Pain in the "A"!! The last line I brought in is a polyester cover over a polyester core thinking it might be better but it still twists. We've tried Nylon as well but still it twists.
Wife is getting pissed and that's not a good thing!!!

[thinwater]

Originally Posted by savoir

Maybe you are putting the twists in when you hank up the line. Do you unhank the line and check that twists are removed before you lower the motor ?

This. No other suggestion accounts for the amount of twist so easily. Stop coiling the rope. Figure 8 or bag. This is NOT the rope, it is the method.

[Dave22q]

Coiling can induce twists or kinks. Flake (figure 8) it instead of coiling or drop the coil on deck and loosely run it through your fingers before lowering. Both work for me on my davits, jib furler and sheets. But my lines are generally larger than 1/4.

[mestrezat]

We always coil in a figure eight. Reputed to be the best way to avoid the kinks and twists I keep getting.
I sent my question about what type of line Forespar uses to them and they are going to send me a replacement line for free! How's that for customer service!
If what they send kinks and twists as well, I'll let everyone know but thanks for the help. Any other suggestions would still be appreciated

[buzzstar]

Send you inquiry via email to Yale, Samson, and New England to see what each has and suggests.

[thunderhoof]

If you use multiple sheave blocks in your rig there is a built in twisting moment that cannot be overcome by line selection. I replace any configuration with two- or three- sheave blocks with a cascade arrangement that uses only single sheave blocks. Also you can use double blocks with the sheaves in the same plane rather than side by side.

[Sailmonkey]

Originally Posted by thunderhoof

If you use multiple sheave blocks in your rig there is a built in twisting moment that cannot be overcome by line selection. I replace any configuration with two- or three- sheave blocks with a cascade arrangement that uses only single sheave blocks. Also you can use double blocks with the sheaves in the same plane rather than side by side.

I don't know about that. I regularly heave and ease a 12:1 purchase with quite a bit of load. The blocks are all in different planes and directions, never to we end up with twists. If the line did twist and jam I can promise that the results would be horrendus(for me at least)

[thinwater]

Originally Posted by thunderhoof

If you use multiple sheave blocks in your rig there is a built in twisting moment that cannot be overcome by line selection. I replace any configuration with two- or three- sheave blocks with a cascade arrangement that uses only single sheave blocks. Also you can use double blocks with the sheaves in the same plane rather than side by side.

I don't think so. The cure is to reeve muilt-part blocks in specific patterns that prevent this. The pattern varies with the purchase selection. For example:



Counter intuitive, but it works. I've been doing this on mainsheets and davit tackles for decades with all sorts of line. Never a twist or jam. I also never coil the tail.