There are a lot of "details" to this and they are VERY important, as some filters will actually grow bacteria and make the water
less safe and some are certified to make remove everything down to viruses. To gloss over the fine print is equivalent to saying that paint
, and to use latex house paint on the top and bottom of your boat; at best sub-optimal and at worst harmful. Most filters that are purchased serve no useful purpose because they are mis-specified, but the owners swear by them. For most folks, if there is some carbon to remove chlorine, that is all they will notice, and there is also a placebo effect.
I posted a few thoughts here, not refined, that discuss that water
treatment has many components. The final tap filter is only one. Each step requires that you understand what you are trying to accomplish.
Sail Delmarva: Drinking Water Filtration--The Short Version
Target 9000. The engineering is simple. Go to Filters Fast and order a G3 2x10 housing and a Floplus-10 filter. This is NSF rated for cycsts and will stop most bacteria. You can go one step further and order a P231 filter (DVG-50), which is independently certified for all disease organisms. Both combination are far cheaper than the Seagull route
, and parts
are available world-wide. By the way, Seagull is NOT certified by NSF or any other recognized testing organization to remove microorganisms (NSF 53 or NSF P231), though the advertising would suggest otherwise. Their budget
does not allow for NSF/ANSI certification
; I guess it is a price-point product. I think the Seagull is a very good filter, it is just that it's mythical status is undeserved. There are many excellent and more economical products out there now, the result of keen interest in drinking water
and global competition. Many apply to boating
and we should take advantage of that.
A64. I did not answer my own question (can a foot pump manage a 0.2 micron carbon block or ceramic filter). I would honestly like to know the answer. I only observed that flow is restricted even with a pressure pump. I don't know much about foot pumps and didn't suggest that I did. I was trying to broach a central concern, which is that filters are extremely variable, with different characteristics and functions. The OP did not say which type, and he needed to. I believe that most people that have studied the subject would agree that either a NSF 53 rated filter or no filter is best.
Silver impregnation is intended to reduce growth inside the filter on the element, but many authorities do not agree that this is effective and there is no certification
mechanism; the bacteria can easily grow on junk that accumulates in the filter without touching the carbon granules. These filters are suited to home use where the water is continuously chlorinated and are not suited to application like boats where chlorination is hit-or-miss. This information can be found on filter manufacture web sites. Home filtration and boat filtration have very different problems and very different objectives.
KDF filters are in a different class, better suited to intermittent use. But I think there are better options for the tap.
So, has anyone used very fine filter (ceramic, carbon block, or Seagull) with a foot pump?