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Old 19-08-2013, 08:04   #1
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Washdown Pump Install

I intend to install a wash down pump. The supply will T off the pickup for the head. Do I need use a check-valve in each branch supply line to prevent back flow from the appliance not being used ? Or would it be better (safer) to use a 3-way selector valve off the pick-up to direct the water to the appliance in use ?

thanks, Bob
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Old 19-08-2013, 08:06   #2
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Re: washdown pump install

Just T it in. That's the way mine is and I've never had a problem.
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Old 19-08-2013, 08:20   #3
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Re: Washdown Pump Install

If your head pickup is located near the surface (mine is), that may be a problem. We use the deck wash down pump for showers while underway. With the boat heeled, even slightly to expose the intake through-hull, the pump may be sucking air. Consequences are, at worst, burning up the pump impeller; at the least, creating an air lock that will have to be bled before the pump will function again. I moved my pickup point to the generator seacock which is located just above the keel.
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Old 19-08-2013, 09:12   #4
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Re: Washdown Pump Install

When I installed my Jabsco Flush-Mount Hosecoil Washdown on the bow of my boat, I added a new dedicated through hull, seacock, strainer, pump, all using the largest diameter hoses possible, necking it down right at the Hosecoil.

The pump is wired to be powered whenever the windlass is powered.

Note that the Hosecoil lid does not float. (IMO that is very dumb). So, I've already entertained others at the anchorage by jumping off my boat to retreive the sinking lid. Now I snap the anchor safety cable to the lid handle whenever I remove the lid.

This configuration has worked very well for me for over a decade.
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Old 19-08-2013, 13:01   #5
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Re: Washdown Pump Install

On the boat I am destroying, the washdown pump sucks from a) either the bilge or from b) the seacock (cockpit drain) then it can pump either to the c) bow outlet or to d) an overboard thruhull - this way it doubles as an emergency bilge pump (No 3) on this boat.

Just an idea.

b.
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Old 19-08-2013, 17:36   #6
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Re: Washdown Pump Install

thanks for all the good advice, all my thu-hulls are under one panel at the bottom of the companionway stairs, so they are on the centre line of the boat, just behind the keel. We will most probably just use the wash down for the anchor or cleaning up after cleaning a fish. Unlikely to be used while sailing, but it should not be an issue if we did.

I have T's and a valve and a barb on all of the the thru-hulls. These are used to flush all the salt water out when the boat is hauled for storage. I can open the valves and close the thru-hulls in an emergency to use the engine and generator as extra bilge pumps. So I could do the same with the washdown if it were T'ed into the head pickup.

The head is an electric macerator but I don't think that should impact the install. We usually close all the thru-hulls if we leave the boat at all.

I may power my pump through a fuse off the windlass circuit, it makes sense, good tip. Sounds like I do not need to worry about check-valves, I will just T it off the head pickup.......

thanks again, Bob
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Old 19-08-2013, 18:01   #7
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Re: Washdown Pump Install

I was going to put the pump in the forepeak but got to thinking about the length of the electrical run. Thinking now of mounting it in available space in the head and just running the hoses up forward. Shortens the electrical by half and probably the necessary of electrical wiring.

I'd hesitate to pull power for the pump off the windlass circuit. In most cases, will be using the washdown pump to clean the chain at the same time the windlass is pulling the chain up. Assume the recommended cable size for the windlass is the minimum needed to operate it. Any additional load, will cheat the windlass of needed amperage/volts and greatly increase the heat generated in the cables.
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Old 19-08-2013, 18:58   #8
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Re: Washdown Pump Install

Quote:
Originally Posted by roverhi View Post
I'd hesitate to pull power for the pump off the windlass circuit. In most cases, will be using the washdown pump to clean the chain at the same time the windlass is pulling the chain up. Assume the recommended cable size for the windlass is the minimum needed to operate it. Any additional load, will cheat the windlass of needed amperage/volts and greatly increase the heat generated in the cables.
That would not apply if the pump is wired like on my boat.

On my boat, the windlass power is energized / de-energized by a momentary switch that toggles a two-state contactor fed by 2/0 wire. The windlass power goes through a 110A circuit breaker to the windlass. The pump power goes through a 20A circuit breaker to the pump.

There is no issue on my boat w/ "starving" either component for power, even when both are used concurrently.
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