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Old 09-06-2008, 04:50   #31
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Ahhh...THOOSE cats - now I understand
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Old 09-06-2008, 09:08   #32
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Originally Posted by Lancerbye View Post
All these problems disappear with a Vacu Flush Head.
Not all... you still should use a vented loop on the overboard discharge if the bowl is below the waterline.
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Old 07-07-2008, 12:49   #33
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A simple solution that seems to work well on my boat:

Holding tank mounted above waterline, so it won't fill with raw water.

Open valve at bottom of holding tank to empty where legal. This is gravity feed, so there is no waste pump to fail or clog. (deck pump out also available.)

Waste from head pumped into top of holding tank. Since its going into the top, the only way it could siphon back is if the holding tank is over full, eliminating the need for an anti-siphon. (If you try to cram too much into your holding tank, it's going to come back into your head weather or not you have an anti-siphon valve)

Can hold, let go overboard or pump out with no y-valve, no anti-siphon loops and no risk of siphoning. Also - through hull valve only needs to be opened for a few seconds to empty tank, then closed again, eliminating any risk of forgetting to close it. Deck pump out and vent as usual.

On my boat, the thru-hull is located in the cockpit locker which is a bit awkward, but I've been on boats that put it under the sink in the head, which makes it very convenient and simple.
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Old 07-07-2008, 13:11   #34
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It's often easy to lead the big pipe vent out on deck.
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Old 28-08-2008, 07:08   #35
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An interesting tutorial:
Vented Loop or Anti-Siphon Valves:
Boat marine Product Review/Test; Vented loops and anti-siphon valves ; how they work
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Old 28-08-2008, 07:41   #36
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Our slip meighbor has a Jeneau 42 fitted with two heads, neither of which has (had) vented loops. Not long ago he was called to the yacht club because his boat was "low" in the water. It was so as the forward head had developed a siphon through a not well functioning joker valve. The only thing that kept the boat from sinking entirely was the fact that the keel was resting on the bottom and the water level had reached equilibrium inside the boat. After the huge expense of repairs, he still refused to add vented loops. Predictably, perhaps--several months later he arrived at the boat to discover that a head--this time aft--was in the process of filling the boat again! Again he refused to fit vented loops. More recently, he arrived at the club to discover that his engine would not start-hydrolocked due to a siphon in his raw water intake!

The boat is now fitted with a nice new $16,000+ Yanmar engine--and vented loops!

(BTW, since head pumps operate on the suction rather than pressure side, on the vented loop in the inflow line, run a small tube from the vent to a small blulkhead fitting on the side of the cabinet or counter-top. This can be covered with ones thumb when necessary to pump the head.)

FWIW...

s/v HyLyte
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Old 28-08-2008, 10:16   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by svHyLyte View Post

...

(BTW, since head pumps operate on the suction rather than pressure side, on the vented loop in the inflow line, run a small tube from the vent to a small blulkhead fitting on the side of the cabinet or counter-top. This can be covered with ones thumb when necessary to pump the head.)

FWIW...

s/v HyLyte
Thanks - neat trick to know.
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Old 07-10-2008, 10:22   #38
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My boat (48 ft ) is heavy (19 ton) with a long, full deep keel/bilge
My wife absolutely hates the rotten egg smell from heads when not used for a couple days.
I have a large black water tank below the water line and both electric heads drain into it…..always.
I can pump this over the side (just above the waterline when at rest) or have it sucked out from a deck fitting.
I am considering installing another tank low in my huge bilge….this tank will supply the electric heads with water on board….
This tank can be filled with fresh water (via dockside / gravity from the two side bilge tanks) when I’m coastal cruising, which is my primary use.
The tank can be filled with sea water (also via gravity) for passages.
I can fill the tank with what ever I want and add what ever.
I can even put in one of those little blue things,...green...a green blue thing, of course!
The “flush supply tank” will not be hard plumbed to the fresh water system so there would be no possibility of cross contamination.

No intake or discharge loops or siphon vents of any kind.
Just tank vents??
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Old 07-10-2008, 12:21   #39
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It's a definite risk if you are below the waterline. If your seacock is free and easy to get to you could shut it whenever you leave the boat. On the other hand, every vented loop I've cleaned seems to be clogged/not functioning.... So do they really work?
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Old 13-12-2009, 22:26   #40
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I have the same experience with fouled vents...that’s why I went to the trouble to avoid using them.
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Old 14-12-2009, 04:29   #41
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Our only overboard discharge is via macerator our rinse is done via pressurised saltwater system. No loops required. Key switch for macerator satisfies coasties inspection, they like no direct discharge option.
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Old 14-12-2009, 04:55   #42
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My boat doesn't have a vented loop in the inlet line. When I got the boat this year I noticed that the head was always filling up. The head is electric and we would pump in down, which we learned filled the holding tank fairly fast. The line did have a valve in-line that was easy to closed because the thur vcalve is hard to get too. Turns out the in-line valve leaked and it took me a little time to figure it out. So when I went to replace the in-line I found out that the thur valve was stuck open (was able to hold the in-line valve above the water line to replace it). I have a good out of the wat place to install a vented loop in the line, but think I'm going to just stay with the manual in-line valve.
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