Trying to get information about VD14 + CU95 combination

[onefastdaddy]

Hello,
I just finished the install (very simple) of a WAECO CU95 ad VD14 in a 160L ice box (top load). It's a replacement for the old 230v system that came with our Lagoon 410.
I'm very impressed how plug and play it was. Literally mount, make the connections (self-sealing), connect the labeled wires, power up.
The system has been up and running for about 8 hours now and the freezer has gotten very cold, almost icy cold.The compressor did finally turn off not long ago.
I now have questions about actually using it. I could not find anywhere in the manual about the thermostat...there's a blue knob with markings 1-10 that I can't read (just embossed in the blue plastic). Is it just clockwise colder or the reverse?
The power consumption is great. The compressor is so quiet I had to put my hand on it to feel the vibrations.
On paper the CU95 can deliver 100w and the VD14 draws 80 and can freeze 200L and cool 400. The ice box is mostly empty with just about 12 soda cans, a gallon of milk, some food containers and misc. It's cooled down to almost freezing. I'm really happy with it and just want more details. Anyone have a photo of their wiring harness connected up? There was a black cable that came with it and no information whatsoever. I guess it's a resistor of some sort. I found a photo online and it appeared they connected it to the 3rd connector down. There's a few double connections as well where you connect two wires. I'm pretty sure I got it right as it's all working but a photo of actual connections (i.e. manual wiring diagram didn't show any of the split connections or that resistor). Also any guide on how hot the compressor should get. Mine gets so hot I can only touch it briefly.
I'll use soap and check for leaks at the fittings but I doubt it. The old compressor that came out got just as hot. We are in Grenada and it's hot here, and humid.

[onestepcsy37]

Keep the fridge full as possible. Air space doesn't retain cold as well as "stuff" in the fridge. As to which setting to use, that will come to you with trial and error. Keep a thermostat in the fridge so you know it's always below 40 degrees farenheit.

I had a VD14 style evaporator and didn't like it very much. Exchanged it for an O shaped freezer box style evaporator. But the VD14 might work better in your box depending on shape and insulation.

[Richard Kollmann]

I manufactured over 75 fan cooled evaporators twenty years ago for pleasure boats an found they had one big problem, frost build up in moist climates if allowed to operate at temperatures below 32 degrees. Adler Barbour starting selling their VD fan evaporators before WAECO took control of AB. If you are able to find on the web AB's old web forum you will see the complaints about fan cooled none self defrosting fin coiled evaporators.

This fan cooled evaporator needs to be located high in box and lid or door seals must be tight enough to prevent air infiltration when closed. Best Btu performance and least energy consumed is when cooling fins are not blocked with frost.

[onestepcsy37]

Yes Mr Kollmann, thats the unit I had - the Adler Barbour. Exchanged it for the O style freezer box and no complaints since.
Onefastdaddy, I incorrectly said "keep a thermostat in the fridge". Should have said "thermometer".

[Richard Kollmann]

In an icebox conversion refrigeration unit it is necessary to calibrate thermostat. The advantage of a fan cooled evaporator over a static air plate is it does not tend to have major different temperature layers from top to bottom of box. Static air evaporators require natural tumbling of air to absorb and dispose of heat.

Thermostats are available in different temperature application ranges Cooler, Refrigerator, and Freezer. Their control knobs are normally marked with numbers instead of degrees like 1 to 7, with 7 the coldest setting. I find the best and quickest way to calibrate the thermostat knob setting is to place an inexpensive thermometer on a small cardboard box holding thermometer 4 to 6 inches above box floor. Set knob to maximum cold and when desired temperature on thermometer is reached lower knob setting until compressor stops. All thermostats have a temperature differential of 6 to 18 degrees form stopping to restarting compressor so calibrate at point when compressor stops. The actual box temperature difference as thermostat cycles will only be 1 to 6 degree.

[onefastdaddy]

That's GTK on the calib info. I will try that. The thermometer I put in from the hardware store says currently the temp at the top of the food area is 40F with the knob on 6.
The box dimensions are 27" tall, 15" wide, 25 deep. So there is a big air gap from the top of the food to the lid. Top loading. Seal is good as it is a heavy lid.

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[onefastdaddy]

Thanks everyone for the info. Final post here now two weeks after installing the CU95 and VD14. It was plug and play. I did it myself. The parts come pre charged with self sealing fittings. Although the specs said my 160L of space should freeze it does not. It does get down to just above freezing. We open and close the lid often in the day. The compressor is unbelievably quiet which is impressive. The drain I would guess it's right at the specs at 6-7A (80w/12v). It's running about 70pct of the time and I just get through 24hrs OK battery wise if it's sunny and breezy. I have a single 250w solar panel and a Sunforce 400w wind turbine. My battery bank is two 4D lifeline AGMs. I think one additional 250w panel would give me the extra power back in to get through the night with more to spare.
Just hope this info is helpful. I am glad with my choice and suggest to always buy more cooling than you need as it seems the specs are very optimistic. In this case the flat evaporators that had enough cooling were to large. My box is 25" tall by 27" long by 15" wide. So the VD14 for in there perfectly. I reused the holes from the existing system after removing it.

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