Troubleshooting a propane solenoid?

[Calypso52]

Our solenoid, appeared to be allowing some propane to flow when the switch was in the OFF position. (burner could be lit at a very very low flame.) I removed the solenoid and tested it on a 12v source. Strong position click on click off. Can the seal on a solenoid wear slightly to allow gas to pass? A strong spring forces it closed when the magnet is de-energized, correct?

Any ideas here other than replace it? Any suggestions for a source of a lower cost solenoid. The name brand ones are a little steep. Thanks!

[Roy M]

Why worry about a cheaper solenoid? After all, it's just a safety issue. If you are really that hard up for money, just remove the solenoid and depend on the propane tank valve being opened and shut each time you want to boil a pot of water. After a few times, going out in the rain or gloom of night, the more costly, dependable solenoid will seem a bargain. Much more so than the cheapo unit that allowed gas to flow into the bilge and blow the cabin top off. Come on now, you've got a 50 foot boat. You really need to have a better sense of proportion here. Save your money in other ways.

[donradcliffe]

Try blowing through it to test it.

[djmarchand]

I have always considered propane solenoids an expendable, maintenance item, just like impellers. They don't last very long and need to be replaced periodically. Replace it with a good Trident or Fireboy/Xintex unit.

David

[sailorchic34]

I assume the solenoid valve is installed after the pressure regulator as it should be and not before it. Solenoid valves don't have springs strong enough for tight shutoff if installed upstream of the regulator. The seats in any valve can wire draw and leak over time. Its a $100-$125 valve at defender, so not too bad price wise.

[MarkSF]

The fireboy-xintex sv-1 valve is about $60 all over the interweb.

[MarkSF]

Originally Posted by donradcliffe

Try blowing through it to test it.

Yeah, because that will totally tell if the valve has a small leak.

[Saltyhog]

I'm pretty sure this is one of those times it's prudent to just replace a wear item. I'm also pretty sure this is one of those times where the "marine" version of a part is just an industrial part marked up *a lot*. Check here for a solenoid valve that will work for you.
-Tom

[Lake-Effect]

Consider propane valves and solenoids to be safety items. If it wasn't designed to be a field-serviceable unit... the most realistic option is simply to replace it.

[donradcliffe]

Originally Posted by MarkSF

Yeah, because that will totally tell if the valve has a small leak.

Actually, sucking on the outlet works better than blowing for small leaks and is quite accurate. You can also blow in the inlet and put a soap solution over the output--any leak big enough to support a burner will make a big bubble quite quickly.

[86Cruiser]

Originally Posted by Roy M

Why worry about a cheaper solenoid? After all, it's just a safety issue. If you are really that hard up for money, just remove the solenoid and depend on the propane tank valve being opened and shut each time you want to boil a pot of water. After a few times, going out in the rain or gloom of night, the more costly, dependable solenoid will seem a bargain. Much more so than the cheapo unit that allowed gas to flow into the bilge and blow the cabin top off. Come on now, you've got a 50 foot boat. You really need to have a better sense of proportion here. Save your money in other ways.

Sorry but it is incorrect to ever think bypassing a solenoid would ever blow up anything. The only purpose for a Solenoid is for Auto-Fuel-Shut-Off. If you plan on Manual Operations then all you have to do is replace the Solenoid Junk with a straight pipe or hose. After that you'll just have to open and close the Propane's Manual Valve yourself each time you use it. In FACT it is actually safer to throw out the Solenoid for the very reason of this thread. However, if anyone is too lazy to turn the valve on or off themselves then they shouldn't even own propane tanks because if Roy is serious in what he thinks then he'll actually be the first to blow himself up (I pray that never happens, Roy)!

*Roy, you must be thinking of a Regulator, NOT a Solenoid!*

[GordMay]

Greetings and welcome aboard the CF, 86.

[undercutter]

Originally Posted by MarkSF

The fireboy-xintex sv-1 valve is about $60 all over the interweb.

Pretty sure they are a lot less than that. I think I paid $39.00 from Defender in the spring. Bought 6 as they only last 6 months to a year and I have never had one fail open.

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by djmarchand

I have always considered propane solenoids an expendable, maintenance item, just like impellers. They don't last very long and need to be replaced periodically. Replace it with a good Trident or Fireboy/Xintex unit.

David

This.


Mine don't typically last more than 2 years. Keep a spare on board and be happy.

[a64pilot]

First one I replaced, I did so when I bought the boat. It worked but the reg, hose was old and the solenoid rusty, so I just replaced it all.
6 years later, it’s rusty and looks like hell, but is still going.
I have a theory, that is that a solenoid of course builds heat, but a propane solenoid is cooled by the cold gas flowing through it, so be sure to turn it off as soon as you turn off the stove, don’t leave it on without gas flowing through it.