Toy Bilge Pumps?

[Dockhead]

I just installed a Whale Supersub 1100 smart bilge pump with a non-return valve, to prevent a recurrence of my bilge pump cycling problem which killed my batts last year.

Boy is it tiny, light, seemingly insubstantial - sort of toy-like, compared to the Rule one it replaced. I know it's late to be asking this, but do these things hold up?

[psneeld]

It's probably more like a Whale 100 (one hundred) especially with the non return valve.

If you are just trying to keep misc water out of the bilge it may be fine if it doesn't have to run much.

I'm not sure I would count on it for real damage control..but then I don't trust most electric recreational 12V bilge pumps to come anywhere near their ratings, last long or not catch fire...

[sailorboy1]

Guess it all depends on how often, if ever, it runs.

Being a ex-pump engineer guy; it probably never comes down to the pump itself. it's the motor and would bet most bilge pump motors are pretty much the same as to construction for a given power rating. The biggest thing that kills motors is rapid start/stops and the worst case is when the leakage in is half of the pump capacity.. Some auto pumps have the start/stop so close together combined with a small sump that the motors just beat themselves.

But then if a bilge pump is running than once a day there is a bigger problem to me.

[barnakiel]

Small light pumps are OK for intermittent work. The fine Rule / Jonson pumps will have stronger motors and better materials / design - these are better for emergency pumps.

b.

[sailvayu]

I know this does not really answer the question and I hope it does not cause thread drift but keep in mind a check (or non-return) valve in the outlet can reduce the pump capacity by as much as 50%. There are better ways to correct cycling, such as a small loop in the hose or adjusting the placement of the float switch

[GordMay]

Whilst the Open Flow Rate is specified at 1050 US Gal/Hr (66 l/min), the more realistic rate @ 3 Feet (1m) of head is only 750 US Gal/Hr (47 l/min). Any decrease from the nominal 13.0 VDC input will impose further reductions, as will the installation of a check valve, use of corrugated hose, & etc.

On the positive side, they do specify tinned Cu. leads, & "Soft" Start/Stop.

[westsail42]

I recently installed a SuperSub 1100, but without a non-return valve. The pump has a joker valve built in. My tests have shown it to be ok in preventing water return into the bilge. Once debris gets in there, things will change.

I installed it as a "dry" pump to help keep the bilge dry. The SuperSub is the ideal shape to get to the very bottom of the bilge (in my case).

I have higher capacity, more robust pumps for "crash" pumps.

But yes, the construction of these small pumps seems a bit flimsy.

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by westsail42

I recently installed a SuperSub 1100, but without a non-return valve. The pump has a joker valve built in. My tests have shown it to be ok in preventing water return into the bilge. Once debris gets in there, things will change.

I installed it as a "dry" pump to help keep the bilge dry. The SuperSub is the ideal shape to get to the very bottom of the bilge (in my case).

I have higher capacity, more robust pumps for "crash" pumps.

But yes, the construction of these small pumps seems a bit flimsy.

Yes, I'm using the built in joker as a non-return.

Mine is installed like yours, as a maintenance pump. It replaced a Rule 1350 which had been the sole electric bilge pump on board. A couple of years ago I installed a big Rule 3500 discharging through a new 2" line and new through hull as the primary pump. The big Rule has no non-return and killed my battery bank last year when it got started to start and stop continuously, re-pumping over and over again the water in the big 2" line

[westsail42]

Originally Posted by Dockhead

Yes, I'm using the built in joker as a non-return.

Mine is installed like yours, as a maintenance pump. It replaced a Rule 1350 which had been the sole electric bilge pump on board. A couple of years ago I installed a big Rule 3500 discharging through a new 2" line and new through hull as the primary pump. The big Rule has no non-return and killed my battery bank last year when it got started to start and stop continuously, re-pumping over and over again the water in the big 2" line

Been there done that! LOL. Yeah, I did the exact same thing on my initial pump installation. That is what prompted the second "dry" pump. The crash pump float switches are slightly elevated to act as the "second line of defense".

FWIW here are the sordid details

[osirissail]

I also have one of those Whale Supersub 1100 in my main bilge. It has worked fine for a couple of years now. I needed something "low profile" to fit down underneath hoses and other stuff and this one fit perfectly. I have had to clean it once when "cat hair" and other debris clogged the little screen on the end.

But it is being used as the "maintenance" bilge pump - that is, it is there to pump out water from intentional purposes like cleaning or minor amounts like from air conditioners. I have a large high capacity electric bilge pump set on an elevated pump switch that turns on if excessive water is flooding the bilge that the little pump cannot handle.