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Old 09-12-2015, 12:24   #16
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Re: thruhull + seacock replacements - planning before pulling

While we're on the subject of seacocks, I recently brought in an interesting tool that will allow you, in some situations, to work on your seacocks while in the water.
It's called a Seabung and is made in England.

Seabung Breach Control


You can see several videos of it in use here: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=seabung
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Old 09-12-2015, 12:53   #17
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Re: thruhull + seacock replacements - planning before pulling

Can't tell from pics but I suggest you double hose clamp all underwater joints with the tightener bolts in opposing directions. Sure this is included in Maine's excellent guide.
You may need a "thruhull wrench" if you are dealing with mushrooms.

Good luck/ Len
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Old 09-12-2015, 13:32   #18
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Re: thruhull + seacock replacements - planning before pulling

Just leave then in place and soak with either Mystery Oil or WD-40. Let sit a week,andthen slowly wiggle the handle. Always routinely work your seacocks to keep them from freezing(not the temperature kind).
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Old 09-12-2015, 13:57   #19
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Re: thruhull + seacock replacements - planning before pulling

I'm curious, I know to double clamp hoses but what's the theory behind having the hose clamps run opposite ways from each other?

-- Bass

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Can't tell from pics but I suggest you double hose clamp all underwater joints with the tightener bolts in opposing directions.
Good luck/ Len
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Old 09-12-2015, 17:58   #20
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Re: thruhull + seacock replacements - planning before pulling

Clamps go opposite to b/c they 'pinch' one side as you tighten. you put the second screw on the other side to 'pinch' the other side... to even out the squeeze.

You can probably service your valves. I'd attempt that before replacing.

I have a 40 year old Tartan and none of the hull valves are flanged type. They are all ball valves screwed to the hull penetrations, which don't meet current ABYC standard.. oh well, they work for me. These type valves are $80ea for 1.5" diameter. A flanged ball valve from Apollo is ~$150 for 1.5" (Defender).

If cost conscious, do NOT buy from Mcmaster-carr. They are quick and have good knowledgable support, but you pay for it. For backing plates I use 1/2" thick GPO-3 available from on-line metals. 12" x 24" is only $29. and you can probably do 5, maybe 6 backing plates from that.. it's very cheap and is my go-to for backing plates.
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Old 09-12-2015, 18:25   #21
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Re: thruhull + seacock replacements - planning before pulling

I'm going to do the same this spring...replace all thruhulls and valves. I snapped off a 2" thruhull, while working on it and I'll tell you that watching the water pour in was a real fright! I can't tell much from your pictures but it is pretty easy to work on the valves while in the water. Just dive and put a wooden plug in the thruhull and it will do a great job of stopping the water from coming in. There are also a lot of other plugs, plastic, etc. Some folks even recommend the wax seals used for toilets.

I'm a big fan of G10 but if you've ever tried to cut it, it will dull your blade in a New York minute. So, my plan is to buy the premade backing plates. Don't forget that there is a lot of cleanup once you've removed the old thruhulls. You've got to get the 5200 cleaned off (or whatever sealant was used) and then you've got to clean the interior and sand it so the epoxy will hold the backing plate. Then there is time for sealants and epoxies to dry. I'm figuring a big bunch of days to do it all.

I'm going to get all of my parts from Hopkins-Carter. Their prices are competitive if not the absolute best and I've had great help from Parks Masterson and that is worth money in the bank.

I'm still in the last stages of planning so I've got a few things to get straight before I order stuff...but it's 7 thruhulls below the waterline. Looks like about $1200 or more in the bronze parts.

Bill
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Old 09-12-2015, 18:43   #22
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Re: thruhull + seacock replacements - planning before pulling

Thanks Bill! The check's in the mail.
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Old 09-12-2015, 19:27   #23
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Re: thruhull + seacock replacements - planning before pulling

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Originally Posted by Bill_E View Post
...I snapped off a 2" thruhull, while working on it and I'll tell you that watching the water pour in was a real fright! I can't tell much from your pictures but it is pretty easy to work on the valves while in the water...
Bill--I can't help but think that your recommending in-the-water repair, and snapping off a 2" thru-hull while working on it, should be sufficient warning to everyone NOT to do as you do.

This is a job that should be done during a haulout. Period.
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Old 09-12-2015, 20:39   #24
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Re: thruhull + seacock replacements - planning before pulling

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Bill--I can't help but think that your recommending in-the-water repair, and snapping off a 2" thru-hull while working on it, should be sufficient warning to everyone NOT to do as you do.

This is a job that should be done during a haulout. Period.
I would tend to agree. Thinking about a 2inch hole bleeding out is the last thing I want to deal with....even if I had a ceder plug seal the hole
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Old 10-12-2015, 05:53   #25
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Re: thruhull + seacock replacements - planning before pulling

Repair at sea

I have discovered a way to do work like this while still in the water, I use a plastic bucket, with a closed cell foam seal around the top, works great on flat surface, might have to modify the seal if the hull is too curved. Also a bucket can not stand too much pressure so a wood cross about halfway up is needed to keep the bucket round, 2 pieces of 1/2 in plywood with a bolt in the middle worked for me. Without the cross the bucket lasted about 10 minutes, slowly crushing, my first attempt was with a rubber horse bucket. that crushed immediately. Anyway you put all the big stuff you need outside in the bucket, open the sea cock a little to leak some, swim down with the bucket and hold it in place pushing to seal it then the water pressure does the rest. It's a challenge to work through the small hole but it can be done. I did some long term temporary patches to my steel hull this way, bolted in rectangular pre-painted patches, next time I pull out I will weld in a patch but for now it is fine. I even made a larger bucket out of a small plastic drum. After you get the bucket sealed, you then pump it dry with a small hose through the sea cock or hole. I would imagine a steel hoop around the outside of the bucket would keep it from crushing instead of the cross inside. This trick may come in handy some day. The plastic drum bottom curved to fit the hull shape better, I cut it so it wasn't as deep so didn't need a cross, but needed a support in the middle of the bottom that transmitted the force to the sides to help seal against the hull. The foam ring seal was cut from exercise floor mat and duct taped in position to hold it.

I would suggest a 120 volt sump pump plugged in and ready to handle a large leak flow, just for saftey.

for pictures see

Repair at Sea

If you read the whole page, I have since repaired the sailing dinghy with fiberglass, and then later cut in half to make it 2 pieces to store better, bow fits in stern backwards. It's another story all together. The steel patches still await my next haul out.

My opinion, most boats have far too many thru hull seacocks, I will probably cut my number in half next haul out.
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Old 10-12-2015, 07:01   #26
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Re: thruhull + seacock replacements - planning before pulling

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Hey everyone,
This seacock is used to drain the galley sink and the the icebox. As you can see there is a seacock, then a T fitting which has a ball valve. This ball valve is corroded like no other and also has poor drainage(the icebox).

The main seacock in place i believe is bronze, i attempted hand turning the little piece on the right side but was unable to. I believe its missing the handle though. As you can its turned blue, which i assume is the way bronze corrodes?

Anyways, does anyone have any recommendations on how to determine if the seacock and thru hull needs replacing?
Are your seacocks leaking?

I closed off all my seacocks. (on my 1974 Bristol 27)

The galley sink never seems to want to drain well anyway. I had a time freeing up my seacocks but finally got them working so I could close them. (Soaked them with PB Blaster etc ..... )

The pictures are a couple years old. The head seacock is now closed and the hose removed. Both of these are forward port side

And one thruhull has been plugged.
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Old 10-12-2015, 10:56   #27
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Re: thruhull + seacock replacements - planning before pulling

Man, that does not look right with just the seacock sitting there. You are assuming the handle will not move.
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Old 10-12-2015, 11:49   #28
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Re: thruhull + seacock replacements - planning before pulling

3 weeks ago, I replaced all 14 thru-hulls & ball valves on my boat. I know, I know, 14 thru-hulls is ridiculous.

Like the OP, I tried to purchase everything ahead of time to minimize cost and yard time.

I spent the first 3 days removing the old stuff and cleaning the old 5200 off and prepping the surfaces.

The fourth day, I had a helper and we installed all the new stuff.

Splashed the afternoon of the fifth day.

Yard crew sanded and painted the bottom during the first 3 days.



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Old 10-12-2015, 11:59   #29
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Re: thruhull + seacock replacements - planning before pulling

Are there issues in using stainless steel, A2/316, through hull fittings connected to A2/316 stainless valves with A2/316 balls. Some of the fittings will be below the waterline so salt water will be in contact with the metals. The hull is copper coated so the flanges of the SS skin fittings will be bedded next to the coppercoa ?
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Old 10-12-2015, 12:03   #30
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Re: thruhull + seacock replacements - planning before pulling

I would never use stainless for thru-hull fittings. Use bronze.
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