Suspected years of solidified waste in fiberglass tank

[gscriba]

I've search and have not found an answer to this.
How to break up and liquefy suspected years of waste and and calcium/salts that have solidified in a built in fiberglass holding tank. There are no access ports and the tank is not accessible without MAJOR interior demo.
Is there anything that will break down the concrete-like substance that will not eat a hole through fiberglass and tank hose?
Thanks!

[svHyLyte]

Try SewClean by TRAC Ecological. It works but on much older tanks may take more than one treatment cycle.

[Lake-Effect]

Originally Posted by gscriba

How to break up and liquefy suspected years of waste and and calcium/salts that have solidified in a built in fiberglass holding tank. There are no access ports and the tank is not accessible without MAJOR interior demo.

If the tank's so inaccessible, are you certain you have a problem?

There are a number of cheap boroscope cameras around that would enable you have a look inside the tank, through the pumpout. I have a $20 boroscope that works with my android tablet.

[catbird]

I had the same issue with my boat. 25 gallon tank. I tried most of the chemical fixes - none succeeded. I tired Noflex Digestor (enzyme based) - not successful.

I finally found the product at this site TankTechsRX | Totally Green, Totally Clean!.

I have some professional experience in bacteria-based organics. I spoke at length with the owner of tanktechsrx. Everything he told me about the product and how to use it checked out with my own knowledge of organics. I bought the product and used it as he suggested and it worked. I have had zero issue with the tank and pumping out since.

It involves no hazmats.

[peghall]

If you have a serious buildup of sea water minerals in the tank, your hoses are likely to be full of 'em too. Sew Clean Sew Clean will clean out the hoses and the tank, although it may require more than one application if the buildup is very deep. READ AND FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS!



However, as with most problems, prevention is always easier and cheaper than cure. Holding tanks should be at least nominally rinsed out after every pumpout or dump out and thoroughly flushed out 2-3x/season and especially in preparation for winter or other extended layup. It's not difficult, nor does it require filling up a tank. Put about 6" of water into the tank via the deck pumpout fitting--'cuz that sends the water into the tank at the bottom to stir up any sludge and hold it in suspension...pump or dump that out. Repeat, repeat, until you're pumping or dumping clean water. You can use a hose at the dock or sea water using a washdown pump. If using a pumpout, be sure to run any overboard discharge pump as your last step...to flush out the pump and that plumbing.


--Peggie

[SV_Harbinger]

Hmm... Makes me suspicious of my tank, I haven't paid it much attention...ever...just fill and pump/dump and repeat...

[gscriba]

As anyone who has ever replaced their head drain hose knows, the old hose lining is thick with calcification. I can only imagine what the bottom and sides of my tank must look like.
I understand the need for prevention and on-going maintenance; always good to be reminded.
I'll look into the Sew Clean.
Thanks.

[gamayun]

I doubt any chemical short of toxic annihilation will help. This is a picture of one of my head hoses almost 50% occluded. On the Raritan pump, I had soaked it several times over in a calcium-remover bath, and while it fizzed and helped lift a little bit, I still had to use a screwdriver and a lot of effort to chip away at the stuff, which was like concrete. I suggest you make a port opening and try to get at it that way. It would at least allow you to take a peak inside and see if this is the actual problem. You might want to get a new tank, if it is. If your holding tank is buried behind a bulkhead, like mine is, you might also need to cut a panel for access. Good luck! It's a PITA!!

[GeneM]

I have a 50 gal stainless tank. The suction line going close to the tank bottom begins to attach to the bottom with crud. I pump out and flush well. Then I add a gallon of Prep and Etch from Home Depot with some water. It's the least expensive phosphoric acid I found.

Then I go for a ride outside for some good sloshing, maybe most of a day. Then I pump out 3 miles + and flush. It seems to work well.

Change your vent line unless you know it's good.

The best venting is from both sides to separate goose necks on opposite sides of the tank. That keeps O2 in the tank and promotes good bugs - no smell.

[Sailshabby]

We went with Miss Peggy’s Woolite recommendation to loosen up our tank waste. Worked nicely, but I’m not sure how long I’ll have to wait before I can get the aroma out of my mind! Lol

[sailorboy1]

Some muriatic acid will take that scale right out of there!!!!

[peghall]

Originally Posted by Sailshabby

We went with Miss Peggy’s Woolite recommendation to loosen up our tank waste. Worked nicely, but I’m not sure how long I’ll have to wait before I can get the aroma out of my mind! Lol

I always like being credited for a good idea, even when it wasn't my idea. And that one wasn't! I've never even heard of using Woolite to descale a tank or anything else...I can't even imagine how Woolite could do that. A strong solution of detergent (Wisk, or better yet an engine degreaser) in water to dissolve the animal fat buildup on tank walls, but that won't break up scale.



--Peggie

[john61ct]

Only mention I can find here is

Eliminating Diesel Fuel Odors