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07-04-2009, 00:02
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Beirut Lebanon
Boat: 1986 aloa 27 - KAVALA
Posts: 136
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stupid fridge compressor
cheers every one
here is one for you: how come the WAECO compressor of my 12V fridge doesn't start unless I am hooked to the shore power or motoring??
my batteries are brand new and read 13V
with the shore power connected they read 14+ the same thing when the alternator of the engine charges them
I guess the compressor needs that kind of voltage to function normally
is there a way to increase the output of the batteries when sailing ?? how can I keep the compressor running on the available otherwise very adequate voltage of the batteries ?
thanks
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07-04-2009, 01:04
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#2
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Moderator

Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Mooloolaba, Qld, Oz
Boat: Steel Roberts Offshore 44
Posts: 4,678
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Terminals, wire gauge and length, fuses, switches etc.
Have you measured the voltage at the compressor, compressor off and compressor on?
Have you checked:-
Battery terminals for corrosion, snug fit?
The gauge of the wire used? If there is a long run and the wire is too small then you could expect a significant voltage drop.
That the fuses and switches will carry the current?
I havn't put in a refrigerator yet but calculations suggest a startup current of 5 amps or more. Heavier cables from the battery to the fuse/switch to the compressor may be indicated.
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07-04-2009, 02:23
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Beirut Lebanon
Boat: 1986 aloa 27 - KAVALA
Posts: 136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boracay
Have you measured the voltage at the compressor, compressor off and compressor on?
Have you checked:-
Battery terminals for corrosion, snug fit?
The gauge of the wire used? If there is a long run and the wire is too small then you could expect a significant voltage drop.
That the fuses and switches will carry the current?
I havn't put in a refrigerator yet but calculations suggest a startup current of 5 amps or more. Heavier cables from the battery to the fuse/switch to the compressor may be indicated.
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thanks B for the info
the run from the batteries to the fridge is no more than 2 .5 meters
I haven't check the other things yet I will this week end
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live your dream don't dream your life
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07-04-2009, 02:41
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#4
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Commercial Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Wherever the wind blows
Boat: Catalac Catamaran
Posts: 2,348
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Although your wiring length seems normal, you might want to measure voltage at the compressor when it's attempting to start. Either under battery power or at the dock. Compare this reading against the 13 or 14 volts you described as your system voltage. I suspect what you'll discover is the voltage at the compressor is considerably lower.
As a previous poster mentioned, this can be caused by corrosion on connections. You will have to disassemble, clean and reconnect every connection. Also, estimate the wire size running to the compressor. There are wire size charts versus distance of wire runs for a given current draw. Make sure the wiring is adequate.
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07-04-2009, 03:05
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Beirut Lebanon
Boat: 1986 aloa 27 - KAVALA
Posts: 136
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hi tropic cat
when you say every connection you mean all the connections running from thr compressor to the battery or only the ones on the compressor relay
another thing, since I am not an electric wizard and in order to be on the safe side what gage of wire do you recommend I use
thanks
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live your dream don't dream your life
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07-04-2009, 03:29
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#6
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C.L.O.D.

Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario - 48-29N x 89-20W
Boat: (Cruiser Living On Dirt)
Posts: 23,089
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbendaly
... to be on the safe side what gage of wire do you recommend I use
thanks
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What is the current (Amps) or power (Watts) demand (nemeplate rating) of the compressor, and what is the length of cable (Batt to Motor)?
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Gord May
"If you didn't have the time or money to do it right in the first place, when will you get the time/$ to fix it?"
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07-04-2009, 03:41
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Beirut Lebanon
Boat: 1986 aloa 27 - KAVALA
Posts: 136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GordMay
What is the current (Amps) or power (Watts) demand (nemeplate rating) of the compressor, and what is the length of cable (Batt to Motor)?
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to be honest I have no idea I have to look it up once on the boat but as suggested by Boracay the compressor must draw around 5 amps the cabe run doesnot exceed 3 meters.
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07-04-2009, 04:01
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Somewhere in the Caribbean
Boat: Beneteau First 38
Posts: 238
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May sound stupid, but are you sure it is a 12 volt compressor?
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As I sit, a swirling sea of passion gives it's poems in waves underneath me.
The whispers of the sun in my eyes, a silence within.
Rhythm of the surf, drums of the sea. Thoughts tumble and toss about the deep blue abyss inside me, where the love of you dwells.
I'm fighting currents to get back to you, listening to the flow of your liquid language as you beckon me, "Come Play"
Mariners Cove, CI. Anonymous.
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07-04-2009, 04:01
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#9
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Commercial Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Wherever the wind blows
Boat: Catalac Catamaran
Posts: 2,348
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbendaly
hi tropic cat
when you say every connection you mean all the connections running from thr compressor to the battery or only the ones on the compressor relay
another thing, since I am not an electric wizard and in order to be on the safe side what gage of wire do you recommend I use
thanks
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All connections....
The National Electric Code (NEC) specifies the following formular to determine the wires size in circular mils (CM) for a constant load of I amps, wire length L in feet, and voltage drop V.
CM = (25 x I x L) / V
The CM size can be converted to AWG using tables found on the internet. One example is here:
American Wire Gauge, AWG Cable Size Description for Copper Wire Cable
When I run your 'numbers' I come up with 14 gauge wire for a voltage drop of .2 volts.
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07-04-2009, 04:12
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Beirut Lebanon
Boat: 1986 aloa 27 - KAVALA
Posts: 136
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yeah it runs fine when the shore power or when the alternator charges the batteries
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live your dream don't dream your life
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07-04-2009, 04:14
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Beirut Lebanon
Boat: 1986 aloa 27 - KAVALA
Posts: 136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tropic Cat
All connections....
The National Electric Code (NEC) specifies the following formular to determine the wires size in circular mils (CM) for a constant load of I amps, wire length L in feet, and voltage drop V.
CM = (25 x I x L) / V
The CM size can be converted to AWG using tables found on the internet. One example is here:
American Wire Gauge, AWG Cable Size Description for Copper Wire Cable
When I run your 'numbers' I come up with 14 gauge wire for a voltage drop of .2 volts.
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ok tropic cat can you tell what gauge 14 is in metric ?? mm that is
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07-04-2009, 04:22
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Beirut Lebanon
Boat: 1986 aloa 27 - KAVALA
Posts: 136
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thanks
but no I am not an IT wizard
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07-04-2009, 06:50
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#14
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C.L.O.D.

Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario - 48-29N x 89-20W
Boat: (Cruiser Living On Dirt)
Posts: 23,089
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#14AWG is nearly equivalent to 2.5 mm2 (1.63 mm diameter, or 4,110 circular mills). This will be adequate for a 5 Amp RUNNING current, over a total (Pos + Neg) wire length of about 20 feet (6m).
Assuming a STARTING current of 10 Amps, you may require a #10AWG or 6 mm2 (2.59 mm dia, or 10,380 cm) wire.
__________________
Gord May
"If you didn't have the time or money to do it right in the first place, when will you get the time/$ to fix it?"
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07-04-2009, 11:55
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#15
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: FL
Posts: 576
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The Waeco's have a low voltage cut out feature, designed to save your batteries by turning off the fridge when voltage gets low. The new ones have 3 settings for that cuttoff voltage, but my understanding is that the older units only have one setting and they have been known to not run with voltage below 12.4 volts. Might be part of your problem.
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