Sewage Hose or PVC Pipe ?

[cappy208]

It seems amazing out of 60 posts that the most important part of this endeavor was only mentioned ONCE. Whether its the 'approved' sewage hose, the clear stuff, or PVC.


The SEACOCKS. I know where mine are. I make sure they are maintained. And most importantly (even at work) I have several bags of wooden plugs) Both on a 125' 4300 HP tug, and a little 30' Ranger. There is no issue of broken pipes (PVC or otherwise). The valves are OFF until used, shut while boat is unoccupied (Unless of course it is at work with a Duty Engineer on staff)

[Cotemar]

A few of you have said that you have areas where using schedule 40 PVC pipe is just not possible.

My Hose Foil Tape Method may help you with your smelly hose issues.

Of course you still want to use the best possible sanitation hose. The best hose right now is Trident Premium Sanitation Hose in white or black. It has the Maximum Resistance to Odor Permeation and a 5 year warranty. You can also look at Shields Poly X Sanitation Hose or a SeaLand's OdorSafe Plus Sanitation Hose.

To add more odor free life to it, try putting a foil tape jacket on the hose before installation.

You can also add the foil tape on after the hose is installed if it's a small hose and you have a bit of room around it. It goes on easily and neatness is not needed.

After it’s installed you can easily put a patch on any tears.

The Multi-Purpose Foil Tape (HVAC) is 2” inches wide x 50 yards on a roll and one roll will go a long way.

Here are a few pictures I took to help you with this type of project.

[Symphony]

Great write up, Cotemar. Thank you

[skipgundlach]

Wow - this is an OLD thread. My last post was 4 years ago or more.

See a current discussion for some pix of PVC:

Marine Hose to PVC for Head - Holding Tank - Cruisers & Sailing Forums

[wsmurdoch]

It is not hard to bend PVC pipe. Tape off one end, then fill the part near that end that you don't want to bend with room temperature sand and fill the part that that you do want to bend with hot (450 F or so) sand. When the pipe heats up, bend it, then leave it bent 'till the hot sand cools. The pipe will feel like a piece of leather when it is hot, and you can bend the hot section much like you can bend soft tubing. The sand will keep the pipe from collapsing. The sand is easy to flush out when you are through.

Look around on YouTube. There are lots of videos.

I watched an electrician bend big PVC conduit around some brickwork in my house. He did something that could not be done with stock fittings. He had a portable oven that he heated the sand filled PVC conduit inside of. It worked like a charm.

I put the stiff sanitation hose in my boat when I replaced the head to holding tank piping and also the holding tank to pump to thru hull piping. I'll not do it another time. I don't know enough cuss words to do the job again. With PVC pipe I'll be able to make the pipe go where I want to go rather than passing directly through the middle my sink cabinet and using up all the good storage space there.

You all who used PVC pipe... Can you slide the pipe over hose barb fittings while it is leather-like, put a radiator clamp on it before it cools, and end up with a leak free joint?

[skipgundlach]

Originally Posted by wsmurdoch

massive clip...


You all who used PVC pipe... Can you slide the pipe over hose barb fittings while it is leather-like, put a radiator clamp on it before it cools, and end up with a leak free joint?

I didn't do that. It's a bit scary to think of having to remove it later.

Instead, take a small length of the same 1.5" ID -HOSE- as the barb, and put it on the barb. The OD of the hose is the same as the OD on the PVC -pipe- (which is thinner). If you look at my pix, you'll see that I carefully sanded the hose segment dead flat

Carefully make your joint such that it's a clean butt - the end of the hose matches the end of the pipe.

Use a common rubber sleeve (two supplied clamps) and a third clamp for the actual seal. The third clamp goes on the now-tight butt. If you do it right, your rubber sleeve will then be clamped directly over the butt (which joint should be tight, but not watertight, of course). The ends' clamps are just insurance.

The pic I showed is under water - right next to the Y - and has never had a drop in the two times I've had it apart with a camera, nor in the several times I had it apart when I tried to rescue my original Y (the new one isn't a drop-in replacement, so the sizes are different).

Once a warmed PVC pipe was on a barb, I don't know that you could ever get it off for service...

[a64pilot]

Why not use the adaptors Hopcar posted? It seems they make the transition from pipe to hose perfectly and are inexpensive?

[HopCar]

If you try to use the gray plastic hose barbs to attach hose to pvc pipe, you’ll go nuts. The 1-1/2” barb measures 1.65”. Us the adapters from Environmental Marine and save yourself the headache.

[GordMay]

Originally Posted by skipgundlach

... Use a common rubber sleeve (two supplied clamps)...

These?
Flexible Couplings & Adapters ➥ https://www.fernco.com/plumbing/flexible-couplings

See also:
Water Activated Fiberglass Wrap ➥ https://www.fernco.com/plumbing/pow-r-repair/pow-r-wrap

[skipgundlach]

Originally Posted by GordMay

These?
Flexible Couplings & Adapters ➥ https://www.fernco.com/plumbing/flexible-couplings

See also:
Water Activated Fiberglass Wrap ➥ https://www.fernco.com/plumbing/pow-r-repair/pow-r-wrap

Maybe. This is similar to what I used:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fernco-1...-150/203310959

But mine only had ridges at the point of the two supplied clamps.

[skipgundlach]

Here's a closer look at the one I took off when I was redoing my Y:

Pictures: Flying Pig Shakedown 2013-2014/Y-Valve and Hose

[skipgundlach]

This shows my sequence (including the sleeve piece of tubing to match up to the exterior of the pipe):

Pictures: Flying Pig Shakedown 2013-2014/Y-Valve and Hose

[skipgundlach]

And a closeup from that sequence confirms that it's a Fernco:

Pictures: Flying Pig Shakedown 2013-2014/Y-Valve and Hose

[skipgundlach]

Note the no scale/no debris result of our flushing regimen on the end of the PVC:

Pictures: Flying Pig Shakedown 2013-2014/Y-Valve and Hose

Our removal was merely a matter of loosening the clamps (thru-hull valve closed, of course, after air-flush) and sliding the sleeve up the PVC. I had used KY equivalent to make that easier, and pushed it further up the pipe before reapplying as I finished the reinstallation...

[SSgtPitt]

Originally Posted by osirissail

Because marine heads/toilets are not set up for pressurized water supply, we built a "water closet" by taking a 5-gal bucket/pail (kitty litter container) and drilling two holes in the bottom. One for a thru-hull fitting attached to hose routed to each toilet, and in the other we mounted a "replacement" home toilet float water valve hooked up to the boat's potable water pressure system. The tank is bolted down to a shelf in the engine room which is above the level of the toilets so that "gravity" supply fresh water to the toilets.
As each toilet uses water from the "water closet" bucket the automatic float valve opens and refills the bucket. This has worked perfectly for almost 15 years. I carry a spare float/water valve and never have had to use it - so far.

Wow! I bow to you sir. You are my new King of Backyard Engineering, and I mean that in a good way.
You wouldn’t have any pictures of that setup would you? Cuz’ I’m gonna do the same thing.