I have a Lectra-San older model with manual timer and it works good. It is one from the late 70's thereabouts.
I have in 14 years of this boat ownership
had it apart twice. First time was to replace the electric motor seals
regrease the motors and replace lower plastic shaft bushings. Second time was the electrode pack which is pricey.
My electrode pack internal copper wire that forwards the power to the titanium plates disintegrated. I know cause I cut it apart to see what failed.
The older models with manual timer to me are much simpler and less to go wrong than the newer electronic panel circuit board. What failure with the old ones can be the meter reading too low due to some type of internal magnet failure. So you can pop off the meter cover and move the zero adjust higher. I verified my current
draw with a separate ammeter.
I also created a brine feed tank with an electric
valve to supplement in brackish water
Made up with an old Igloo cooler!
Electrode pack needs 18 to 22 amps current
draw in order to function normally.
tank with salt
showing made up brine filter
solenoid valve opens whenever electric toilet is run. All plastic valve I bought on Ebay. You want a non pressure gravity valve. A NON pressure assisted valve. A valve which opens without the aid of a pressure stream behind it.
So toilet then draws in a mix of sea water
and brine by way of a tee hooked up at toilet inlet valve.
An manual PCV valve is then used to regulate the content of brine to brackish water. If you go to salty ocean, turn off the pcv valve
If you goto fresh water open PCV valve up all the way.
Mostly I can leave it alone.
I just dont show the plastic shutoff valve and assorted piping but you get the idea of how it works.