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Old 31-12-2008, 06:58   #16
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Itís common practice to back a nut off until itís flush with the end of the thread...and tap on the combination of the two, this saves the thread.

Yes!! absolutely! a lesson I learned the hard way!
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Old 31-12-2008, 16:47   #17
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One of our forum members sold me a couple of Spartans. I sent him a message to see if he might join in this thread.
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Old 22-03-2009, 16:07   #18
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Gentlepeople:

Our vessel has the original 1978 Wilcox conical type seacocks (seacox as they spelled it) which are close in design to the Spartans. Like the Spartans, they require a gasket to completely mate the hose adapters to them. It is my understanding that the original gaskets on them were leather. We are pretty confident we can lap the cones but we have this secondary problem. I have seen numerous posts that address the longevity of Spartan seacocks on 30 year old Cape Dorys, but does anyone else own a boat with the original Wilcox seacox, and has anyone else addressed the gasket problem?
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Old 23-03-2009, 03:20   #19
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Old 23-03-2009, 05:00   #20
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Thank you Gord May. Do you know if any of these replacement pieces can actually be purchased anywhere? I was under the impression that they are no longer available.
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Old 23-03-2009, 05:21   #21
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We have some old tapered bronze sea cocks, not sure of the maker. They were very stiff or frozen when we bought the boat, we applied blaster and let them soak a bit. We then dis assembled them, cleaned them up, lapped them in, cleaned again, then greased with waterproof grease. Should be good for a long time. We close all sea cocks when off the boat so they get worked regularly.

This is not a bad job, kind of like greasing a winch.

Quote:
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Gentlepeople:

Our vessel has the original 1978 Wilcox conical type seacocks (seacox as they spelled it) which are close in design to the Spartans. Like the Spartans, they require a gasket to completely mate the hose adapters to them. It is my understanding that the original gaskets on them were leather. We are pretty confident we can lap the cones but we have this secondary problem. I have seen numerous posts that address the longevity of Spartan seacocks on 30 year old Cape Dorys, but does anyone else own a boat with the original Wilcox seacox, and has anyone else addressed the gasket problem?
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Old 23-03-2009, 05:39   #22
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Old 11-08-2009, 12:29   #23
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Details...

I am looking foward to rebuilding the three bronze conical type seacocks when I haul out in the not to distant future, all of them are frozen 2 open, 1 closed. Anyways after I loosen them up and open them 1) what kind of acid do I use to clean the bronze? 2) what is lapping, how do I do it? 3) where do I get lapping compound? 4) do I need to replace the rubber/leather gaskets? 5) where are available?

Thanks yall are the best
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Old 11-08-2009, 12:45   #24
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go to an auto parts store and ask for "valve lapping compound". With some you lightly grease the cone and put some of the compound (powder) on it, others are pastes. even coverage helps. insert cone into body and rotate slowly with a LITTLE pressure, a bunch of times. check the cone and when it and the mating surface is all shiny and free of scores you're done. Remember you have to get ALL of the lapping coumpound off (kerosene and a rag) including in the ports. We then use the green synthetic tractor grease, waterproof and works pretty well (apply liberally).
Truth be told, they're a pain to use in larger sizes when they're hard to get to (loosening and tightening the nuts) Ours are original to the boat so 45 years of service. I've been replacing them from time to time with Groco ball valves. (which won't last quite as long, but are easier to operate).

DO NOT TAKE SANDPAPER TO IT, OR ACID -
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Old 11-08-2009, 14:16   #25
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Once removed, clean them up good and clean the barrel in the part that is still in the boat... get rid of all the old grease debris. The reality is that seacocks rarely get cycled. It's even possible most of them have never been shut after the original installation. I cant imagine a tapered seacock getting "worn out". If they look reasonable after cleaning, I just take some 400 grit wet sandpaper and brighten them up by wet sanding the surface circumferentially around the cone. I've never actually used lapping compound and never had a leak. While it would be the very best way to do it, I'm not convinced they came that way to start from the look of the surfaces.... If the body is in the boat you usually cant get at them well enough to do a lap job. Clean up well, apply Lanolin and reinstall... dont tighten the nut too much. If yours have the gasket under the nipple nut, any thick waterpump gasket material from NAPA works well.
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Old 11-08-2009, 18:07   #26
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S&S - someone had mentioned eariler in this thread about using some type of acid to clean the green of the outside, not to clean the cone. so if not acid how do i make them look like bronze again?
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Old 12-08-2009, 12:26   #27
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Green is good, leave 'em. The green is cuprous oxide a natural occuring corrosion barrier that occurs from the copper. You'll never keep them bronze colored anyway. You dont need to remove the bodies to service them....
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Old 12-08-2009, 13:02   #28
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Green is good, leave 'em. The green is cuprous oxide a natural occuring corrosion barrier that occurs from the copper. You'll never keep them bronze colored anyway. You dont need to remove the bodies to service them....
Agreed, unless you're displaying them somewhere, removing the oxide is just work for no benefit.
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Old 16-08-2009, 19:13   #29
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Pressure Drop: The acid that is often used to clean up bronze is 7-10%strength Muriatic Acid, available at any hardware store such as Home Depot. Everyone I know uses it to clean their props. I think it would be OK on the outside of the boat but as the others have said, not on the inside.

I have to confess that we replaced 4 of our Wilcox conical sea cocks with Apollo flange sea cocks with the chrome coated bronze balls. Not a "true" seacock according to purists because they lack cones, but affordable compared to the Spartans and their profile was low enough to fit the spaces. Many people we know had used them going on 10 years with no problems. We had considered working with what we had in place, but after many attempts we were unable to make gaskets to seal the thru-hull to hose adapter. So even had we lapped them successfully, we could have still sunk the boat over that. Then there was the concern that after we launched that they would still leak. Then what? And then we felt you could never be sure. Well, we are so glad that we replaced them because after we pulled them out we realized that they were in much worse shape then suspected.


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S&S - someone had mentioned eariler in this thread about using some type of acid to clean the green of the outside, not to clean the cone. so if not acid how do i make them look like bronze again?
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Old 17-08-2009, 05:41   #30
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Green is good, leave 'em. The green is cuprous oxide a natural occuring corrosion barrier that occurs from the copper ...
Green is good.
Pink is BAD! (bronze disease, de-zincification)
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