Replacement Refrigeration Compressor (Engine Driven)

[Burge]

Hi All,

I have had an absolute nightmare with my engine driven refrigeration compressor with four attempts to replace the leaking shaft seal to no avail. Each technician managed to convince me they could sort it but I have finally given up and decided to buy a new replacement.

So the question is which brand? I am replacing Blissfield steel bodied compressor but just want opinion on what the best replacement compressor would be based upon quality and performance.

Obviously I want something with trouble free operation that is going to last.

I have had Sanden recommended.

I will be redoing the mounting to fit in watermaker HP pump so mounting isn't a major issue.

Thanks

Anthony

[SV THIRD DAY]

Originally Posted by Burge

I have had Sanden recommended.

While we no longer make engine driven systems, Technautics used the Sanden compressors for years and would recommend them. Good luck with the project.

[SailRedemption]

Originally Posted by Burge

Hi All,

I have had an absolute nightmare with my engine driven refrigeration compressor with four attempts to replace the leaking shaft seal to no avail. Each technician managed to convince me they could sort it but I have finally given up and decided to buy a new replacement.

So the question is which brand? I am replacing Blissfield steel bodied compressor but just want opinion on what the best replacement compressor would be based upon quality and performance.

Obviously I want something with trouble free operation that is going to last.

I have had Sanden recommended.

I will be redoing the mounting to fit in watermaker HP pump so mounting isn't a major issue.

Thanks

Anthony

I have the engine driven compressor that came off my boat still in the garage if your interested I'd be willing to sell it. I can't tell you the condition of it, but I'm assuming it worked before I got the boat. I switched to Rich and Technautics 12v compressor unit.

Let me know if you are, I can send some pictures of it for you.

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk

[wsmurdoch]

I have a Sanden SD5H14 (part no. S6664) driven by one 1/2" belt on the dual pulley. After 8 or 9 years and 150+ days per year of use, I am still happy.

[Sdwcheney]

There is a New Sea Frost engine driven compressor on Ebay for $340, Sea Frost ED75 Engine Driven Refrigeration Compressor | eBay

I hope this helps

[Scaramanga F25]

You could get a York automotive a/c compressor for less than 200$.
That is what they are.

[kismet]

I have a SELTEC 488-044041 Selden type compressor, new in the box I will sell for $120 + shipping. These sell for near $300. I bought this with the intention of installing an engine driven system, but went with solar and 12 vt instead. I can send pics if interested.

[Richard Kollmann]

I purchased a new Watkins 32 in 1983 without refrigeration. I designed my boat’s refrigeration using parts from the air conditioning system taken from a 1978 dodge Omni small car. The compressor was a Sanko SD508. Evaporator from this car was placed inside a stainless steel tank filled with a food grade glycol with eutectic solution set to freeze at +6 degrees F. The cars ½ ton expansion valve was also used to control refrigerant flow. Seawater condense, high and low pressure switches and a low on refrigerant safety switches were items I purchased new. Total cost of system $300.

The first generation of car air-conditioners allowed all belt energy pressure to be carried by bearing inside compressor that also could damage shaft seal. The second generation car compressors like the Sanko, Desiel and Sanden added mutable pistons dampening resident frequency vibration and used the clutch bearing to transfer all belt loads direct to compressor structure.

The compressor I got from junk yard after 30 years and 8000 engine hours was in original condition when I sold the boat. I think I was responsible for over 200 of these compressor used in DIY boat refrigerators. The simple fact that my system designs worked so well is slow compressor speeds and the three safety pressure switches that guard against compressor or other types of failures.

[Dougtiff]

Having built a number of engine driven systems over the year's using TECHUMSEH HGC 1000 compressors and servising them, there is no reason why YOU can't replace the shaft seal, if you keep the system long enough, you will need to replace the seal some day, why spend $ for something you don't need, if that is the only problem.

[Burge]

Hi Dougtiff,


Yes that is the exact model I have, well a Blissfield HGC1000 and I have had three different refrigeration companies replace the seal and one of them tried twice and it still leaks although I know that the seal was installed incorrectly at least once.


I know it should be a simple fix but surely after three attempts I have to call it quits.


The issue I have come up against when choosing a replacement is that I either get a York which apparently aren't the most robust after all they are intended for air con not refrig or I go for a Sanden but the only issue with them is they hold minimal oil in the sump so if the refrig system isn't returning enough oil in the refrig gas then it will seize.


Oh decision decisions!

[Richard Kollmann]

Selecting a replacement engine drive compressor has more do with engine speed and expansion valve than quantity of oil in its sump. Shaft seal failures on HG 1000 and York now Climate Control compressors are common do to internal wear of solid shaft mounting. Shaft seal failures are rare on swash plate floating shaft second generation compressors.

Another problem with HG1000 and York compressors when used with holdover plates is they are more likely to fail from liquid slugging when electric clutch in gauges do to refrigerant and oil returning to quickly. The size of holding plate evaporators should determine size of refrigerant expansion valve and not compressor maximum capacity. Compressor’s extended life depends on its capacity not exceeding holding plate evaporator ability to absorb what compressor is producing.

If the HG1000 is running at 2000 Rpm capable of producing one ton (12000 btu) enough to freeze a ton of ice in one hour and holding plates that have less than 10 gallons is a problem for compressor’s service life. The HG1000 compressors when installed on slow turning diesel engines were great but when installed on high speed engines like Yanmar 3000 rpm max cruise even the Swash Plate compressors demonstrate poor service life. My Designs for engine drive pulley size on Yanmar engines is 4 inch driving a 5.25 inch compressor pulley. Yes I like many others years ago had recommended high compressor speeds but in my last DIY book I recommend at maximum engine cruise Rpm that compressor not exceed 1600 Rpm.

Another tip, about 15 years ago I did away with manually controlling refrigeration with a timer and went fully automatic. Start engine and refrigeration is running powered by engine electrical, thermostat and the three safety switches will automatically control refrigeration until engine is shut down again.

[Burge]

Hi Richard Kollmann,


Thanks for your post I will check out pully dia ratio and see what sort of RPM the compressor will be running at.


I am leaning towards the Sanden, do you think it would be wise to put an oil separator on or like you say is the main issue just making sure it is not over reeved?

[Richard Kollmann]

The main reason for reduced compressor Rpm is to prevent liquid slugging just after compressor's clutch in gauges. A properly designed low pressure side of a refrigeration system will prevent start up liquid slugging by some sort of suction line liquid accumulator that meters any liquid slowly back to compressor. These oil and liquid refrigerant accumulators vary from circular raised areas near the end of small aluminum thin plate evaporators to inline accumulator tanks on systems with compressors larger than ½ HP. On most of my engine driven designs with Sanden type compressors I required 5/8 inch tube size at least seven ft long from holding plate to compressor to serve as an accumulator. With compressors larger then ¾ ton like the York or HG 500 and HG1000 My designs recommend suction line accumulator tanks.

Holding plate systems are more prone to compressor slugging because when compressor has stopped refrigerant and its miscible oil will migrate to the coldest part of the refrigerant loop, where this liquid mix remains in liquid phase as long as plate is cold. To reduce the possibility of liquid reaching compressor some type of slow metering back to compressor is required. I believe Crosby and Grunert the pioneers of engine driven refrigeration designs for pleasure boats used very large liquid receivers and suction line accumulators

My advice to those who have concerns of mechanical failures where expansion valve and pulley Rpm is over powering holding plates manually in gauging compressor with engine Rpm at idle will reduce liquid flooding to compressor. With in ten minutes after compressor clutch in gauges the excessive return flow to compressor regardless of TXV control valve max orifice size or even higher than necessary Rpm flow will be restricted be valves superheat adjustment.

[James Diego]

I am searching for a rebuilt kit, parts, rebuilt compressor or a replacement compressor for a Blissfield open type refrigeration compressor, model CA 996-05 for R134 refrigerant that is used a 12v DC motor in a cold plate system.

The some of the specifications of the compressor are: ¼ hp, 475-850 RPM, 1 cyl, 2.33 displacement, 3/8 suction and discharge valve, with 8 ½” flywheel.

If you have access to or know where I can find these parts, I can forward pictures and a more complete set of specifications to your or their email.

Any advice or help that you can give me would be appreciated!

I can be contacted at 6197395025 or svmichelle1@hotmail.com

Sincerely,
James Wisda

[James Diego]

I am searching for a rebuilt kit, parts, rebuilt compressor or a replacement compressor for a Blissfield open type refrigeration compressor, model CA 996-05 for R134 refrigerant that is used a 12v DC motor in a cold plate system.

The some of the specifications of the compressor are: ¼ hp, 475-850 RPM, 1 cyl, 2.33 displacement, 3/8 suction and discharge valve, with 8 ½” flywheel.

If you have access to or know where I can find these parts, I can forward pictures and a more complete set of specifications to your or their email.

Any advice or help that you can give me would be appreciated!

I can be contacted at 6197395025 or svmichelle1@hotmail.com

Sincerely,
James Wisda