Rehabilitating and (re)Installing a Spectra Newport 400

[Laughing Buddha]

The big brown truck brought my 2 Shurflo motors then the USPS mail carrier had my heat sinks. So, now its time to source a pair of 12 volt fans, and what looks like a short section of 4 inch SCHED 40 PVC pipe.




Anyone got a "fix" on the fan details I should seek out? Obviously 12V, but any flow rate/Cfm you might recommend? The cheap ones (eBay) tend to be 20-30 Cfm (less than $10) and the ones that are 60+Cfm are $30-ish. As I mock it up in card stock, looks like an 80mm fan.


Now for plumbing pieces, hose, Jubliee Clips, etc. I don't see the Quick Disconnect in my parts pile. The check valve is there. Is there a reasonable substitute?

Any and all advise welcomed. Much appreciate the encouragement too. This is coming together with all this great help!

Thanks -- Jim

[Laughing Buddha]

Well, summer is over as is my racing season, so now it is time to concentrate on cruiser preparation – specifically my re-configuring of my 24V Spectra Newport into a Spectra Cape Horn. In a momentary flash of brilliance, I sent my Clark Pump to JT (aka Tellie) to have it checked out. I suspect that anything he finds needs fixing – he’ll know what to do and get it back to me whereas I’d be spinning my wheels (so to speak). Since I’m giving him work to do, I can be one of his favorite customers. If he chimes in here and gets me straight on these plans – I could become one of his best.
I am sorting out all the parts on hand, and ordering a new membrane and filters from Rich to hand-carry to Malaysia. The rest of the bits will be in checked luggage too. But, I needed to draw out what I thought I’d need to take along.
I’ve broken the plumbing into 4 sections:
1. SEA WATER INTAKE/PUMPS/FILTERS
2. BRINE AND PRODUCTION
3. FRESH WATER FLUSH
4. SYSTEM CLEANING
Here are a few images to describe what I mean, and I’ll ask a few questions as I go.


SEA WATER INTAKE/PUMPS/FILTERS:

Thru Hull: Ok, it must have a speed scoop, facing the bow, clear of head, sink, etc exits. I recall ½” or ¾” are the desired sizes. I will locally procure this in Malaysia.
Hose: from the thru hull to the pumps, is reinforced 5/8” adequate – or should I use some wire wrapped non-collapsing hose?
Boost/Lift Pump: I note some systems do include and if not needed, one less item to carry. BUT – if there is an advantage to having one, my question; What is the desired flow rate?

Boost/Lift Pump: I see a number of mag-drive pumps on eBay producing up to 750L per hour at very reasonable prices. Any thoughts on these? The Laing Pumps Spectra uses on bigger systems are not so cheap.
Filters: I have reviewed discussions regarding using 2 filters 20 then 5 micron, or just a single 5 micron filter. That would cut the bulk and weight if I need only one. DOES THE CAPE HORN BENEFIT HAVING FILTERS– OR IS ONE 5 MICRON SUFFICIENT?



BRINE AND PRODUCTION:

Now the real work starts. Seawater is pumped to the Clark Pump, Accumulator dampens pulses, pressure in the feed line is measured, brine pumped overboard, and product directed to the Taste and Test Station and when checked OK – directed to the tank. Pretty straight forward here. But still, I have a question. My Newport came with 2 accumulators. DOES THE CAPE HORN BENEFIT HAVING 2 – OR IS ONE SUFFICIENT?
Note one is already configured with a pressure gauge. Lucky me! I’ll take along both, but if one is all that is required for my set up the other will do duty in the house water system.


FRESH WATER FLUSH:

Following Production and prior to shutdown, the system gets a Fresh Water Flush. The charcoal filter is in the circuit to keep chlorinated dock water out of the membrane. We routinely keep such a filter in our house circuit, so it begs the question; WHY NOT USE THE HOUSE FRESH WATER PUMP TO FLUSH FROM THE TANK?


SYSTEM CLEANING:

As required through use or storage the system can be cleaned. When set to clean the thru hull is bypassed with a 3-way ball valve and the cleaning agents drawn in through another hose. My previous experience with RO Systems the agent were just dumped through the system. I note on some of the Spectra systems, it is recirculated. Another Question: Should the cleaning agent (or pickling solution) be recycled during the process? If so, I will add another 3-way to the brine exit to pump into a bucket. I note some of the Spectra manuals reference a "Quick Release Port" for "Servicing." Is this required? Is there a suitable replacement available through McMaster?

Enough questions for now. Any and all answers, comments, or questions greatly appreciated. You can all see I like pictures, so if you have configurations to share – please post.

Cheers - Jim

[Laughing Buddha]

OOPS - the astute observers will note I screwed up the 3-way valve on Fresh Water Flush. I'll make sure that doesn't happen on install! Will revise my notes for the operation Handbook.

Cheers -Jim

[Tellie]

Just be forewarned. My best customers fly me out to Tahiti on their private helicopter, put me up at the best hotels, and don't think 1.5k a day is a bad deal to have the master take a look at things. It's quite easy to be one of the best.

Originally Posted by Laughing Buddha

Well, summer is over as is my racing season, so now it is time to concentrate on cruiser preparation – specifically my re-configuring of my 24V Spectra Newport into a Spectra Cape Horn. In a momentary flash of brilliance, I sent my Clark Pump to JT (aka Tellie) to have it checked out. I suspect that anything he finds needs fixing – he’ll know what to do and get it back to me whereas I’d be spinning my wheels (so to speak). Have you recently sent it? Give me a hint. Since I’m giving him work to do, I can be one of his favorite customers. Read the preamble above. If he chimes in here and gets me straight on these plans – I could become one of his best. Did I mention room service?
I am sorting out all the parts on hand, and ordering a new membrane and filters from Rich to hand-carry to Malaysia. Make sure it is a Dow Filmtec membrane. Spectras don't play nice with the other Mutant Ninga Turtle off brands. The rest of the bits will be in checked luggage too. But, I needed to draw out what I thought I’d need to take along.
I’ve broken the plumbing into 4 sections:
1. SEA WATER INTAKE/PUMPS/FILTERS
2. BRINE AND PRODUCTION
3. FRESH WATER FLUSH
4. SYSTEM CLEANING
Here are a few images to describe what I mean, and I’ll ask a few questions as I go.


SEA WATER INTAKE/PUMPS/FILTERS:

Thru Hull: Ok, it must have a speed scoop, facing the bow, clear of head, sink, etc exits. I recall ½” or ¾” are the desired sizes. I will locally procure this in Malaysia. 3/4" with a forward facing scoop and ball valve.
Hose: from the thru hull to the pumps, is reinforced 5/8” adequate – or should I use some wire wrapped non-collapsing hose? Use 3/4" non collapsible hose. the two feed pumps will create a strong vacuum. If you happen to leave the thru hull shut off or some debris blocks the intake these two pumps will crush any other hose forever weakening them.
Boost/Lift Pump: I note some systems do include and if not needed, one less item to carry. BUT – if there is an advantage to having one, my question; What is the desired flow rate? Scrap the boost pump. Where the NP400 uses one the Cape Horn Extreme does not need one at all and in fact would be a hindrance to the system if installed.

Boost/Lift Pump: I see a number of mag-drive pumps on eBay producing up to 750L per hour at very reasonable prices. Any thoughts on these? The Laing Pumps Spectra uses on bigger systems are not so cheap.
Filters: I have reviewed discussions regarding using 2 filters 20 then 5 micron, or just a single 5 micron filter. That would cut the bulk and weight if I need only one. DOES THE CAPE HORN BENEFIT HAVING FILTERS– OR IS ONE 5 MICRON SUFFICIENT? All Cape Horn Extremes only use a single 5 Micron pre-filter. A 20 Micron is over kill.



BRINE AND PRODUCTION:

Now the real work starts. Seawater is pumped to the Clark Pump, Accumulator dampens pulses, pressure in the feed line is measured, brine pumped overboard, and product directed to the Taste and Test Station and when checked OK – directed to the tank. Pretty straight forward here. But still, I have a question. My Newport came with 2 accumulators. DOES THE CAPE HORN BENEFIT HAVING 2 – OR IS ONE SUFFICIENT?
Note one is already configured with a pressure gauge. Lucky me! I’ll take along both, but if one is all that is required for my set up the other will do duty in the house water system. Use both. All our new CHE use two.


FRESH WATER FLUSH:

Following Production and prior to shutdown, the system gets a Fresh Water Flush. The charcoal filter is in the circuit to keep chlorinated dock water out of the membrane. We routinely keep such a filter in our house circuit, so it begs the question; WHY NOT USE THE HOUSE FRESH WATER PUMP TO FLUSH FROM THE TANK? You do. When you are fresh water flushing both your house pump is operating and only one feed pump on the system (either one) is operated.


SYSTEM CLEANING:

As required through use or storage the system can be cleaned. When set to clean the thru hull is bypassed with a 3-way ball valve and the cleaning agents drawn in through another hose. My previous experience with RO Systems the agent were just dumped through the system. I note on some of the Spectra systems, it is recirculated. Another Question: Should the cleaning agent (or pickling solution) be recycled during the process? Yes, it is recycled (with the pressure relief valve open 3/4 turn) for twenty minutes to properly saturate the membrane with storage solution. If so, I will add another 3-way to the brine exit to pump into a bucket. I note some of the Spectra manuals reference a "Quick Release Port" for "Servicing." Is this required? Is there a suitable replacement available through McMaster? Either a 3/way valve or a quick disconnect will work. Not sure if McMasters carrys a quick disconnect.

Enough questions for now. Any and all answers, comments, or questions greatly appreciated. You can all see I like pictures, so if you have configurations to share – please post.

If you want to get fancy, add a 3/4" check valve as close to the intake thru hull as possible and route your fresh water flush water to a "T" fitting just after the check valve. This way when you flush, most of the 3/4" non collapsible line from the thru hull to the watermaker will be fresh water flushed along with your raw water strainer as well. You'll fine the SS screen will last forever this way. Most watermaker companies don't do this and the slug of salt water from the thru hull to the input of the watermaker sits and bio-fouls quite quickly. Then the next time they operate the watermaker this slug of nasty water is sucked right into the system.

Cheers - Jim

Oh, a hammock between two palm trees and Rum runners delivered by native gals in grass skirts will show your true allegiance.

Best Regards
J.T. Halden aka (the ever relaxed Tahiti bound Tellie)
Halden Marine Services – Marine Watermakers, Solar Panels, Wind Generators

[Laughing Buddha]

JT -
I'm over 2 fingers through the red wine - so I'll digest your comments (Thanks Heaps) early in the morning... and make changes/additions as needed...

Yes, it is sent and Tracking says Delivered Today! So, it is in your hands - No, not the maids in grass skirts - but if you open the box - CAREFULLY - find the liquid libation - Enjoy! Just a "little something to lubricate the joints.

Thanks for the pointers - I'll make appropriate revisions based on your experience and comments and re-do my plan!

As an aside note - In 1999, I needed a new refer compressor DC motor in Tahiti for my GB system. It would have been cheaper to fly one of the guys out to hand carry than it was to ship it to me! So your "on-site" support offer is not too off the mark. But I prefer Dutch treat on arrival!

Tomorrow.

Cheers - Jim

[Tellie]

Hi Jim,

I just walked into the office five minutes ago and there it is. I'll try to get a look at it tomorrow in the afternoon.

Best Regards
J.T.

[Laughing Buddha]

Tellie

I think I have incorporated all the suggestions in the following diagram. It does not represent actual placement/location in Laughing Buddha, but a schematic of the logic, and give me a part count before packing up.

1. 3/4" with a forward facing scoop and ball valve --YES Copy and will comply
2. Use 3/4" non collapsible hose -- DITTO
3. Scrap the boost pump -- Done!
4. use a single 5 Micron pre-filter - Roger.
5. Use both. All our new CHE use two. (Accumulators) I think I have envisioned how that is done - haven't seen a diagram of the new CHEs.
6. fresh water flushing - Include the house pump - yes.
7. add a 3/4" check valve as close to the intake thru hull as possible and route your fresh water flush water to a "T" fitting just after the check valve. Got it!

I have added a few extra check valves - seems like a reasonable precaution to keep from filling the tank with sea water if the ball valve for flush is left open, also one to keep from pumping the tank over board either through the Intake or the discharge.



Hope I got it right. Looking forward to your review/test of my Clark Pump. I read alcohol is not good for an RO Membrane - but suits the innards (yours/mine) just fine.

Cheers - Jim

[Tellie]

Originally Posted by Laughing Buddha

Tellie

I think I have incorporated all the suggestions in the following diagram. It does not represent actual placement/location in Laughing Buddha, but a schematic of the logic, and give me a part count before packing up.

1. 3/4" with a forward facing scoop and ball valve --YES Copy and will comply
2. Use 3/4" non collapsible hose -- DITTO
3. Scrap the boost pump -- Done!
4. use a single 5 Micron pre-filter - Roger.
5. Use both. All our new CHE use two. (Accumulators) I think I have envisioned how that is done - haven't seen a diagram of the new CHEs.
6. fresh water flushing - Include the house pump - yes.
7. add a 3/4" check valve as close to the intake thru hull as possible and route your fresh water flush water to a "T" fitting just after the check valve. Got it!

I have added a few extra check valves - seems like a reasonable precaution to keep from filling the tank with sea water if the ball valve for flush is left open, also one to keep from pumping the tank over board either through the Intake or the discharge.



Hope I got it right. Looking forward to your review/test of my Clark Pump. I read alcohol is not good for an RO Membrane - but suits the innards (yours/mine) just fine.

Cheers - Jim

I like it! Nicely laid out. That will work perfect, and in my opinion, better than factory set up. I'll get you the Clark pump part list by tomorrow afternoon.

PS Thanks for the fancy hootch. It won't go to waste.

Best Regards
J.T.
Halden Marine Services – Marine Watermakers, Solar Panels, Wind Generators

[Laughing Buddha]

Since I last posted in this thread – a lot has happened. We’re back aboard LB in Malaysia. Arrived on New Years Eve. The new Beta Engine arrived just before Chinese New Year. Finished the repower and launched after 10 weeks on the hard. Included much bilge repainting, new shaft, cutlass bearing, Max Prop, new house water system hoses – and pump; and a rough in of the Spectra Watermaker. We launched to finish up chores. New N2K all around including and Noland Engine CanBus; Maretron WSO and Optolamp LED TriColor/Strobe/Anchorat the masthead. Still waiting to get to the HF/Airmail/Outernet/SDR set ups, but that will come on first passage to Thailand. Fingers crossed.
Back to the Spectra conversion. Tellie’s support was fantastic, he did my rehab/rebuild and got it to me in time to hand carry to the boat. We usually arrive 3 hours early for departure and with our flight CNX, I could answer all and explain what it was. Then, on arrival in Malaysia, they wanted an explanation on the Membrane housing. Guess it looked like a Bazooka!
But, IMPORTANT NEWS! Today I can report a successful run minus membrane. Just a leak check, and chance to tighten fittings, etc. Made a slight mod to the layout with the Accumulators. See below:




So next is install the membrane,and report back with results -pending availability of internet. Until then, Cheers - Jim

[TheAmazingOcean]

Hi all, I'm getting ready to do this conversion also. I've got my Shurflo's in hand and now trying to sort out the connections. Is there a parts list or recommendations where to source them? My Shurflo's have female 3/8" threaded ports. Am I looking for a 3/8" NPT Male to 5/8" or 3/4" hose barb/tail to make the plumbing connections? Thank you in advance, I'm a little confused about what to order as I've found 3/8 to 1/2, but it seems from the thread I'm looking for 3/4" hose.

[Laughing Buddha]

Greetings "TheAmazingOcean!"

And Happy New Year!

Sorry I can't just buzz down to the boat - I sold it and am now making the next move to "land-yachting."
However, I do have a real good source for bits and pieces that I used; USPLASTICS.COM.

To improve your searching, I have an invoice of some of the pieces I ordered. Ought to get you moving in the right direction. Also earlier in the thread, some picture of the parts in their catalog.

https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...1&d=1672959256

Tellie was a good source of information - I note his last post was 9/11/22, but his business is/was www.HaldenMarineSerevice.com He is a supporting contractor - so should be a safe posting.



Best of luck!


Cheers - Jim

[TheAmazingOcean]

Thank you Jim!!! I was thrown off by the small size of the inlet/outlet ports on the Shurflo's and the requirement for 3/4" hoses... couldn't get my head wrapped around that as I wondered the aisle at the hardware store. On my old behemoth pump there was a fitting that went 3/8 male to 1/2 male to "upsize" the threads for the existing hose. So I was curious if I had to add one of those to each of the four ports on the pumps.

Anyhoo, really appreciate you weighing in here after all these years and I'll print out the information you sent and start trying to figure it out!

Cheers and best for a great 2023!

EDIT: Looks like your pumps might have had 1/2 ports? I see 1/2 x 2/4 adapters on the list.

[Tellie]

Let me know if I can help in any way.