Recommendations on septic Y-valve?

[ronstory]

I found the practical sailor review on y-valves

https://www.practical-sailor.com/iss...e_10792-1.html

while i found it interesting, the data is about 6 years old now. When searching other sites with reviews the data seems to be scattered on good vs bad.

When I looked at the Jabsco, it seemed likely to leak with the extra rotating fitting with o-rings.

Any good recommendations or models to avoid?

[CaptTom]

I've come around to the idea of avoiding Y-valves altogether.

Plumb a "T" into the pumpout hose just above the tank. Connected it to a macerator on TOP of the tank, and run the discharge from that to an overboard thru-hull. Discharge the head pump directly to the holding tank.

You now have the option to pump out, or pump overboard when allowed. No Y valve to mess with. You also have the ability to work on the pump and other fittings above the "water level" of the tank, so no worries about unwanted discharge while you tinker.

[ronstory]

Cool idea, however my existing thru;hull is in head's sink cabinet along with the Y-valve but the tank is in the v-berth. So it would be a bit more more work than just looking for quality y-valve.

Something to consider on the next haul-out.

[puffcard]

My setup is like yours. I found the Raritan is very solidly built and doesn't lockup.

[ronstory]

Thanks! Quick question, How easy is the valve to turn?

I'll note that the Raritan Y-valve didn't do well in the PS testing and I haven't been able to see one physically... but I think the seal problem they found is test setup issue.

What i didn't like about PS testing protocol is that they decided to use 50 PSI test pressure for the valves, which in my opinion is not very realistic scenario. A lot of pumps maybe can support lift of 6-10 feet... *maybe* 15 feet, which is about 7 PSI for a 15 foot lift.

I understand that pressure can be higher if there is clog, tank is over full, thru-hull closed etc. However, 50 PSI seems like 'more is better' approach to testing and not what would happen in the real-world.

I wish they would have ran the test at 20 PSI or so, because some of the well constructed valves like Whale were rated at 30 PSI and leaked at the test pressure of 50 PSI. Surprise, Surprise.

[CarinaPDX]

My recommendation is to stop looking at the overpriced, underperforming plastic "marine" Y-valves and just buy a proper bronze ball valve; since going to a bronze T-valve I have had no problems.

[ronstory]

Did you use the Groco or another brand for the bronze ball valve?

[travellerw]

Holy crap.. Really...

Our boat is equipped with 2 Forespar "overpriced, underperforming" Y-Valves and they are original.. 14 YEARS OLD.. Yes really.. The crappy plastic valves have lasted 14 years.. All 14 years were either liveaboard or charter... 14 years on a $70 dollar Y-Valve and still going.. We have lived aboard for 2 full years with a family of five with both those valves(15 years old when we moved aboard). Yes we move them from tank to direct dump often and have not had a freeze up. Yes we have had them apart, and although there was some buildup, they look like new.

Sometimes this forum makes me shake my head.

[CarinaPDX]

I don't remember. I'll dig in and try to read off the valve later. It doesn't really matter who makes it - it isn't specific to marine applications. The Groco is particularly nice (https://www.groco.net/products/valve...ree-way-valves) but at around $150 isn't cheap either. The Groco valve has an on-off-on sequence, 90 degrees apart. Another option is an Apollo (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000R8B5F4/ref=biss_dp_t_asn) which is like what I have. Notice that the handle rotates in a different plane, and is on-on at 90 degrees.

Greg

[CarinaPDX]

Originally Posted by travellerw

Holy crap.. Really...

Our boat is equipped with 2 Forespar "overpriced, underperforming" Y-Valves and they are original.. 14 YEARS OLD.. Yes really.. The crappy plastic valves have lasted 14 years...

No doubt some plastic valves are made better than others. And perhaps the designs have improved since 25 years ago, when the rubber seals would stick and the handles broke off. But too many of us "old-timers" got burned and have no desire to repeat the experience (lots of folks have had problems with them, not just me!). For $30 more the problem is absolutely, positively, SOLVED.

Greg

[ronstory]

TravellerNW--

Yes, those forespar are cheap but seem to work and rotate fairly easily. The seem a bit flimsy when you turn them but I think that's the handle itself and not the valve assembly.

I have an old Bosworth and it's difficult to turn, but apparently in 2011 Bosworth made an update for easier turning.

[ronstory]

CarinaPDX--

Ah, another Portlander. ;^)

Thanks for pointing out the Apollo handle rotates away from the body in one position. I'll need to see if the position with handle aligned with the output flange will work in the sink cabinet.

Things are tight under the sink and the bosworth is a 120 degree straight fitting assembly and it pretty much suspended and supported by the three 1.5" sanitation hoses.

I just need to see if the way the hoses lie will allow we have handle aligned with the output flange in the 'tank' position so I can secure with a tie-wrap.

As for the cost, those bronze 1.5" hose barbs looks to be $20 each. That said, it the valve turns when I need it to... it's worth it.

[northwestsailor]

My advice is to avoid Y valves but if you must have one my suggestion would be to look up a pool and spa supplier. They have incredibly heavy duty valves that must withstand chlorine day in and day out. They can easily handle human waste. They are usually less that marine valves too.

[ronstory]

Another cool idea. Plus I have a friend that owns a pool and spa store for a recommendation on brand.

Although, it would be easy to just give up and buy a cheap $50 Y-valve and be done with it. Too many boat projects on 44 year old boat.

[deluxe68]

Originally Posted by CarinaPDX

I don't remember. I'll dig in and try to read off the valve later. It doesn't really matter who makes it - it isn't specific to marine applications. The Groco is particularly nice (https://www.groco.net/products/valve...ree-way-valves) but at around $150 isn't cheap either. The Groco valve has an on-off-on sequence, 90 degrees apart. Another option is an Apollo (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000R8B5F4/ref=biss_dp_t_asn) which is like what I have. Notice that the handle rotates in a different plane, and is on-on at 90 degrees.

Greg

I am going to order the Groco later today along with two straight hose adapters and one with a 45 degree angle. Discount Marine has the best prices from what I could find. The Groco looks to be the easiest to mount to the bulkhead. The next issue is trying to figure out how to get the 45 degree adapter tight yet pointing in the right place to accept the existing hose. I envision some thread sealant in my future.