Raritan Head problem after rebuild.

[jtschetter]

I have a 1985 Hunter with two Raritan heads. I installed rebuild kits in each head. A problem I had had before the rebuild is still present. On only one head, set on the dry setting, after I pull up on the handle and start pressing down, the handle is spongy like it has and air lock and you are building up pressure. As you keep pushing down on it in a bumping fashion, the handle will go down. Has anyone had a similar problem and how do I rectify it?

[cabo_sailor]

It sounds to me like you either have a full holding tank or the y-valve is set so you are trying to pump through the deck fitting, which is cranked down. If it were open you would be pumping doo-doo all over your deck.

Rich

[Dynamo1181]

Originally Posted by cabo_sailor

It sounds to me like you either have a full holding tank or the y-valve is set so you are trying to pump through the deck fitting, which is cranked down. If it were open you would be pumping doo-doo all over your deck.

Rich

You need to give the model number. If it is a PHC or a PH II, then remove the square nut on the front side of the head. Clean the rubber jocker valve and the spring load valve underneath. That will fix you up.
A

[Vasco]

Originally Posted by cabo_sailor

It sounds to me like you either have a full holding tank or the y-valve is set so you are trying to pump through the deck fitting, which is cranked down. If it were open you would be pumping doo-doo all over your deck.

Rich

This seems to be the problem.

[peghall]

Dynamo is the only one who even came close to the right diagnosis. The air valve assembly (part #1203W on the attached drawing Raritan PH II parts and drawing has finally worn out...you need a new one. It's not in the rebuild kit. You can try removing it and cleaning it, but as old as it is, I'm not optimistic that'll work.

You'll find it on the front of the pump housing...it's a little square flat nut with a hole in it that looks like it's molded into the cylinder, but is actually threaded in. When you replace it, wrap the threads in teflon tape to prevent it from leaking.

Btw...There are two versions of the PHII marine toilet--those manufactured before June of 1992 and those manufactured after June, 1992. Each has its own unique repair kit...only about half the parts in each one are interchangeable, so it's very important that you get the right one for your toilet.

The earlier version, manufactured between August, 1981 and June, 1992 uses repair kit # PHRKII. The PHII toilets manufactured after June, 1992 use repair kit PHRKIIC.

Any mfr'd before August '81 are the original PH, not PH II. Any toilet old enough to be a PH has to be pretty much worn out by now, but if you insist on grooming a dead horse, the correct kit for it is PHRK.

[Dynamo1181]

20 years livaboard with a PH II and many rebuilds I, this day, am finally replacing the old dog with the same PH II model. Its a good unit but needs attention especially to that front air valve and also the shaft sealing O-ring...the base developed a crack.
Peg, is there a source for that shaft O-ring outside the complete kit?
A

[peghall]

20 years is the average lifespan for a PHII. If your seat and lid are still in good shape, all you really need is a new pump assembly.

Peg, is there a source for that shaft O-ring outside the complete kit?

Yup...Raritan. 800-352-5630 x 6. Order a couple of new joker valves at the same time. It should be replaced annually in ANY manual marine toilet. For the reason, search this forum for "joker valve 101."

[jtschetter]

Thanks for the help, all. Using the advise above, I will check it out. I feel confident I can solve the problem.

[jtschetter]

I finally got back to my boat and cleaned the part #1203W on my troubled head. My head works like a new one. Thanks to all for the help!!