Propane system...

[Coastal Canuck]

Hello, I have a 1970 Hughes 29'. I am rebuilding the propane system as it was partly removed and well its old. Inside is the original Coleman 4 burner stove/oven and newly installed (before I bought it) Dickinson Propane heater.

my question is, on my stove its the old copper line and on the new Dickinson its the rubber hose. I would replace all to the rubber hose but the coleman has the copper line running past the burners to the input. I would rather not buy a new stove if I don't need to, however at my propane tank can I have a T valve with both rubber and copper lines going into it?

Thank you,

Michael

[Lepke]

Propane is nice to cook, but dangerous inside a hull. Propane is heaver than air and settles in the bilge if there is a leak. It then waits for a spark...

Some propane boat pics

[HappyMdRSailor]

Welcome to CF Michael!

Other than having twice the risk, maintenance, and inspection of two lines... I personally don't see any huge deal... I would put your solenoid off the tank, and tee after there... Having a valve for each just downstream so you can use either one or both... I would also have a proper gas detector/alarm inside...

If you haven't done your proper research on propane lockers, you really need to... This is the one area that is NOT open to interpretation... YOU MUST have it properly ventilated and drained...

Above is just my general thoughts... I am by no means the propane expert... Hope that others chime in and let us know!

[rwidman]

Originally Posted by Coastal Canuck

Hello, I have a 1970 Hughes 29'. I am rebuilding the propane system as it was partly removed and well its old. Inside is the original Coleman 4 burner stove/oven and newly installed (before I bought it) Dickinson Propane heater.

my question is, on my stove its the old copper line and on the new Dickinson its the rubber hose. I would replace all to the rubber hose but the coleman has the copper line running past the burners to the input. I would rather not buy a new stove if I don't need to, however at my propane tank can I have a T valve with both rubber and copper lines going into it?

Thank you,

Michael

I don't understand your question but I will try to answer it anyway:

The ABYC has a strict set of guidelines for propane systems and appliances on a boat. Get yourself a copy and study them until you're sure you understand them and can replace/repair your system to be in compliance.

One thing I know from the ABYC requirements is, there can be no connections inside the boat except at the appliance. This means you must run a separate line from the propane locker to each appliance in the boat.

Propane is pretty safe on a boat as long as the installation complies with the ABYC standards and the appliances are approved marine appliances and used and maintained correctly.

[Ukeluthier]

I agree with Ron. There is no reason not to enjoy the benefits of propane on a boat... as long as it is installed and used properly.

This means, however, having a propane locker that meets ABYC standards and having ALL propane connections -- with the exception of the one at the appliance -- inside the propane locker. This means a separate line for each appliance. You also need a switched-controlled solenoid shutoff in the cabin and should have a propane detector.

I'd worry also about the Coleman stove. I doubt if it has the flame-failure device necessary for a proper marine stove.

[Cheechako]

All T fittings etc must be outside the enclosed cabin.

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by Ukeluthier

I'd worry also about the Coleman stove. I doubt if it has the flame-failure device necessary for a proper marine stove.

I have the same concern. A proper marine stove will have sensors to detect if the heat goes away, indicating the flame has blown out.

If using a Coleman stove on a boat I would stand and watch it the entire time the gas is on at the tank.