after going through the literature at the uponor website I found out that you can use the aquapex for hydronic heating under a few conditions
1. all metal in contact with coolant
is non-ferrous (meaning does not contain Iron, including stainless steel)
contains min 50% glycol solution
3. coolant temp does not exceed 180 degrees Fahrenheit
I went with a webasto boiler (tls 17) which uses an aluminum heat exchanger
, copper fancoil units and a custom t6061 aluminum reservoir tank. no iron in contact with the coolant.
in most cases the common parts
which may have iron would be the reservoir tank (usually steel) or an expansion tank (if fitted)..... some radiators may be made of iron, but I dont see someone using it on a boat. if for any reason you have any iron, steel, or stainless steel in your heating loop only use the HE-pex.
when installing your plumbing
and heating systems it is best to color code your plumbing
, I used red for domestic-hot, blue for domestic-cold, and clear for hydronic coolant. this way there is no chance I can cross contaminate my potable water
supply..... I also used all 1/2" for potable and 3/4" for heating..... kind of a no brainer, my domestic pump is 1/2" and my hydronic circulation pump and fan coil units are all 3/4"
either way, read the documentation
for yourself and determine for yourself if you need to use he-pex
one more thing, the Milwaukee M12 propex expander is the way to go for boats, as stated above it is allot easier to get into tight spaces than the other cordless expanders and night and day difference from the hand expander. the m12 series from Milwaukee is much like the old makita cordless tools from 25 years ago. they take less space than the competitors product line and the M12 product line is still expanding with new products being introduced as they are developed. they even have a palm nailer(not that you get allot of use for a palm nailer, but who else has a cordless palm nailer?)
next on my list for the M12 tools is a hackzall (a reciprocating saw that uses a standard 6" sawzall blade) and the M12 inspection camera
. if you have the camera
, you will need the hackzall to get at the problems you discover with the camera. it is a vicious cycle