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Old 22-09-2009, 11:06   #1
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New Refrigerator Not Working

Has anybody had this problem??
I just purchased a new waeco 3.8cf refrigerator 12/24-110 volt
Installedi n the boat , runs fine on 110 volts but when using 12volts does not cycle off, meaning it runs 100%of the time. Temparture seems good
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Old 22-09-2009, 12:13   #2
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So what's not working??

Is it built in, or something like

WAECO 12-24 / 110 VOLT COOLMATIC 85 QUART PORTABLE REFRIGERATOR –FREEZER WITH COMPRESSORWAECO 12-24 / 110 VOLT COOLMATIC 85 QUART PORTABLE REFRIGERATOR –FREEZER WITH COMPRESSOR

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Old 22-09-2009, 12:37   #3
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It is a built in, The problem is on 12 volts the compressor run 100% of the time never shuts off Is that right?
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Old 22-09-2009, 12:59   #4
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have you tried calling waeco??? i bought and installed an adler barbour a few years ago, had a problem the first day. called waeco (manufacturer of adler barbour) and they solved the problem immediately over the phone, shipped me a new control box via ups, and it worked fine. haven't had a problem since....
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Old 22-09-2009, 13:06   #5
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When my wife defrosts our refrigerator, it may take 4-6 hours of 100% compressor run to pull the temperature back down to where the regulator kicks it off. As I remember, the Danfoss BD-35 compressor should remove about 300 BTU/hr, or cool down 30 pounds of contents about 10 deg F per hour with no heat leakage. It will also take about an extra 150 BTU to freeeze each pound of water.

I haven't used a Waeco 12V/110V refrigerator, but the some of the control circuits on the Danfoss compressors vary the compressor speed (and amperage draw)depending on how much electrical power is available. It could be that your Waeco unit runs the compressor hard enough on 110V (it assumes lots of power available) to get the unit to cycle off, but not hard enough on 12V.

Try turning the thermostat to the warmest setting and see if the unit cycles on 12V. If it does, then your problem may be not enough insulation.
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Old 22-09-2009, 15:04   #6
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Thanks for the info, I had emailed waeco and they provided me with the number to custormer service, I will call tomorrow
Even after I bring the temp down on 110 volt and then switch to 12 volts the compressor still runs 100%b of the time I have tried turning the thermostat down until the compressor shuts off, the next cycle still will not allow the compressor to turn off. So far I am dissopointed with this unit. Not enought insulation? maybe ambient temp was only 70* and this is a complete factory made unit I did notice when run on 110v through the supplyed power supply that the compressor recieves 28volts? waeco says this unit can run on 12 or 24 volts I am confusied
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Old 22-09-2009, 19:45   #7
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The controller generates AC to drive the compressor motor. It does sound like you may need a new controller.
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Old 25-09-2009, 10:00   #8
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UPDATE
With the help of The tech , Phil at gulfstream marine I believe I have this unit working well. I removed the defrost drip pan and eliminated the 12v -110 v power supply furnished by domestic. With the power comming directly from the batteries I have this frig cycling 13 min on and 8 min off at 38* Does this sound close?
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Old 25-09-2009, 10:02   #9
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Yea, but why isnt it working properly?
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Old 25-09-2009, 10:02   #10
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Make sure it can breathe. The heat has to go somewhere.

Steve B.
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Old 25-09-2009, 10:20   #11
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I guess the poiwer supply unit is defective The power supply converts 110 volts to 12 volts send it to the controller . the controller sends 12 volts to the compressor which then converts that to 10volts ac ,dam so may turns. So I just have it hooked up to 12 volts for now I believe dometic is sending a new power supply unit although I do nor feel I will need it as my battery easily handles the load at the dock
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Old 25-09-2009, 10:25   #12
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I was just about to buy a Dometic, now I'm hesitating....!
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Old 25-09-2009, 12:47   #13
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I have a CF50 110VAC/12-24VDC Waeco (Dometic). Using it as a freezer. Works fine & has been on continuously since purchase in April of this year. Holds zero degrees F no prob. I see no difference in performance running on 12VDC vs 110VAC. I did have to change the low voltage alarm threshold (lower). Duty cycle probably about 70% on 30% off. Have optional insulated cover which improved performance quite a bit.
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Old 26-09-2009, 10:02   #14
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Ok I have had this thing working on 12 volts for a couple of days and at 35* it seems to be operating on a 50% off -on cycle as long as the door stays shut. Ofcourse it has been cool out here on the chesapeake. I threw the power converter overboard
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