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Old 25-08-2009, 04:45   #1
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Lubricating Thru Hull Valves

The boat is on the hard and I'd like to lube the thru hull valves. None have any removable plugs through which to apply grease. Is there a way to do this without having to remove the hoses (which is a major bitch)?
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Old 25-08-2009, 06:04   #2
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ball seacocks no.........conical seacocks.......yes
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Old 25-08-2009, 06:17   #3
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you can at least lube half the ball by greasing thru the hole from the outside which should help.
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Old 25-08-2009, 06:41   #4
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I've thought about doing that too. Also thinking about trying to try adding oil to the various hoses and draining/pumping to the thru hull and then opening and closing the valve. A bucket on the ground below the various valves would catch the excess oil. Thoughts?
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Old 25-08-2009, 06:43   #5
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that should help too........
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Old 25-08-2009, 16:50   #6
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You should remove the hoses. That way you can do it properly, plus you can inspect the hose. I never had trouble with this, but I don't have those nasty sanitation hoses (we use standpipes for those, no valves required).

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Old 25-08-2009, 17:22   #7
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If you have ball valves, on a lot of designs you can take the handle off and the valve will turn either way or a full 360. So could lube both sides from the outside. But there this isn't any less trouble than taking he hose off.
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Old 25-08-2009, 20:48   #8
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Use waterproof grease, it is the green coloured stuff used in trailer wheel bearings and laundry machines. Lasts a lot longer than regular oil (a few weeks) or grease.
The best seacocks to have are the type that have a tapered rotating plug which is easily removed, cleaned and regreased even while the boat is in the water.
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Old 25-08-2009, 21:11   #9
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Tef-Gel for lubing the ball. Pull the hoses and the valves to do this correctly so they too can be inspected.
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Old 25-08-2009, 22:30   #10
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I think the price goes to Don Lucas! That is indeed the easiest way to do it. The handle should come off easily, sometimes by it's own ;-)

And I think I agree with David about TefGel although I never used it for that before... but there's no solvents in it so shouldn't hurt the seals. We normally use SuperLube, a synthetic teflon grease, but TefGel should last much longer. I don't like the wheel bearing grease (or any other non-synthetic grease) because it hardens.

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Old 27-08-2009, 21:43   #11
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i buy usp grade lanolin[ no contaminants] from a beauty supply store that sells materials for cosmetic manufacturing.
Lanolin is truly amazing, a dielectric, water insoluble lubricant, great for use with drilling thru metal, and anything that slides or galls. use between disimilar metals ie ss screws in AL masts. etc.
1lb was about $7.
it does attract grit/ and dirt like any "grease" but its one hell of a friend on a boat.
ds
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Old 21-09-2009, 14:16   #12
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THAT's where I can get lanolin. I agree - the grease in the tub is a wonder. As an experiment, coated the prop and shaft with it at last haulout to see how long it would keep growth down. Lasted much longer than I thought. I also put it on the tips of the thru hull bungs, and the threads, to prohibit growth on nonpainted bottom surfaces, and stop threads from binding. I now use a little lanicote grease on all fittings that I want to be able to take on and off easily --- the cover to the raw water strainer, the top to the big Groco antisiphong on the head that i have to keep clean, etc.

After 5 months, the diver asked what that white goo on my prop was......and no growth.
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Old 21-09-2009, 14:25   #13
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I'm a lanolin fan also, but not sure about for Ball valves. I would not remove the hoses unless you know they come off easy... often they are very hard to get off and you might damage them. I like the "remove the handle" idea, use a little acid brush and brush both sides of the ball..
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Old 21-09-2009, 17:01   #14
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My personal rant:

Stainless steel ball valves - 316 grade. Mild steel handles! gah!
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Old 21-09-2009, 19:50   #15
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Actually, you can do it by puting the grease on a popcycle stick ...

and reaching through a 1/2 closed valve. Just scrape it off on the edge and cycle the valve a few times. Works when getting to the hose is a bear. Can be done while in the water. Also common practice on reactor dump valves in the chemical industry (inside not accessible).
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