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Old 14-01-2007, 16:10   #16
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Bucket and chuck it.
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Old 14-01-2007, 16:29   #17
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But that is the whole point. You can bucket it, but you can't chuck it. So you have to store the bucket somewhere. Hence the holding tank.
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Old 14-01-2007, 16:43   #18
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Just wait till night time

Ok so what about that airhead thing, no thru hulls, no blocks, no holding tanks, no plumbing, no smell. I'd get one imported for the new boat if it was as good as the advertising suggests, just would like to hear from someone who has one.
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Old 14-01-2007, 16:46   #19
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That must be the one that you park your bum over the bow of the boat huh?
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Old 14-01-2007, 18:04   #20
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Nope, the airhead is a composting toilet THere is still waste to dipose of, but it is supposed to be free of nitrates, and dry. The problem with the Air Head for my application, and I am sure others, is the size of the thing. It would fit my boat.
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Old 14-01-2007, 19:19   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hellosailor
At 23c per flush, I have to wonder what it would cost to just drop in a handful of pool chlorine "pellets" instead. Or plain generic supermarket bleach, if you're in civilization.
The NZ$0.23 per flush is the replacement cost of the electrode only. You can add another few cents for some salt if the flush water is not salty enough, and of course you must amortize the cost of installation.

In the US, the "Electro Scan" is an approved type 1 marine sanitation device. The manufacturer had to demonstrate that it meets the legal requirements for that device, and the user must use the device as it was intended to be used.

That means: If you don't follow the instructions, it is illegal for you to dump your sewage overboard.

Pool chemicals or bleach may kill enough bacteria to meet the legal requirements, but since you are not using an approved device according to the instructions, it is still illegal.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ronbo1
Too bad those NDZ's are becoming the rage since it dampens technology from improving these products. How often have you seen people go out "3 miles" to empty their tanks?
I make a point of emptying the holding tanks if I happen to be out beyond 3 miles, but I never went out just to dump the tanks. Lately I've been staying in the upper Chesapeake where it is two days sail to "beyond 3 miles", so even if I didn't have the Electro Scan, I wouldn't be dumping the tanks any more.

I think some people don't know that other people can tell when you dump your holding tanks -- it changes the water color near your boat. (So does the Electro Scan, but not as much as 20 gallons would.) There was a letter in a local sailing magazine about people dumping their tanks in the approach to St Michaels MD. Even though an NDZ doesn't help that situation, this sort of behaviour probably lends support to people who want an NDZ for "squeamish reasons".
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Old 19-01-2007, 07:27   #22
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Don't have the link handy but if you Google Sun-Mar you will find them.
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Old 22-01-2007, 15:34   #23
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We have the ElectroScan unit and have experienced the same problems mentioned earlier. After nine months of operation, the electrodes went out. Raritan sent an new set under warranty without question (good, because we are cruising in Turkey). Just after I got the ectrode pack installed the seal around the built in macerator motor started leaking.

Going into the unit is NOT a pleasant task. I've been into ours three times and I don't relish going in the fourth time. I don't know how the other poster got his unit onto the dock to open because once you disconnect the fill and discharge hoses sh*tty water goes everywhere. I have done mine in the bilge and the bilge pump really hates me now.

Not mentioned above, but we have continuous problems of smell. We have used Raritans Clean Potties but still you can smell a definite odor.

Were it not for the fact that one must go 3 miles offshore to dump holding tanks (and Turkey has NO pumpouts and a stiff fine for discharging), I would disconnect mine and go back to the holding tank. It is convenient when it works, though.
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Old 22-01-2007, 18:02   #24
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Here's a couple of alternatives that may not cause a "Brown Out" when used.

Sani-loo

Gradon Marine & Construction

Sani-Loo Sewage Treatment System


Auto-san

AutoSan

BLA: Boating's Leading Accessories

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Old 23-01-2007, 03:19   #25
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”Cruising With a Dry Composting Toilet” ~ by Craig Quirolo

”... For a house boat or for a boat at the dock, composting toilets work perfect. For cruising it is another story, not impossible, just call yourself "Norton" and get into it.
We successfully cruised for two months experiencing the good and bad of living with a composting toilet and I'm not ready to "deep six" it yet. There are smells, leaks, and flies to deal with, but keep in mind that the composting system has a lot of room for improvement. ...”

Full article:
Reef Line Summer 2000

SUN-MAR composting toilets: Composting Toilets By Sun-Mar - The Environmental Solution
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Old 23-01-2007, 11:22   #26
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Oooo goodie. I see we have a Mr Vic Willman of Raritan engineering just signed up. I hope you can share some of your expertese here Vic. Please jump in.
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Old 23-01-2007, 16:47   #27
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Air head is a dessicating system, not composting
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Old 23-01-2007, 16:58   #28
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It seems to me that the Lectra-san uses a big burst of battery suckin electricity to produce chlorine from saltwater, where as the AutoSan injects a shot of chlorine from a bottle, using much less electricity therefore not taxing the Battery Bank anywhere near as much.


"Used in association with a macerating electric toilet, the Auto-San STS will inject a pre determined dose of readily available liquid pool chlorine (present as Sodium Hypochlorite) that will kill algae, bacteria and viruses within five minutes of operation."

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Old 23-01-2007, 21:01   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gegroves
Going into the unit is NOT a pleasant task. I've been into ours three times and I don't relish going in the fourth time. I don't know how the other poster got his unit onto the dock to open because once you disconnect the fill and discharge hoses sh*tty water goes everywhere. I have done mine in the bilge and the bilge pump really hates me now.
The instructions say that you should unscrew the cap on top of that post in the center, then stick a hose down the hole to pump out the liquid. In principle, you can pump enough liquid out that it would not spill when you disconnect the hoses.

My installation has relatively short hoses that both slope upward from the unit. When I'm going to work on it, I pump air through the head -- i.e. just keep flushing after the water is gone. The unit is still mostly full of liquid, but if it goes well, there is a bubble at the high point in the hose. I open the hoses at the end away from the electroscan, leaving a little hose attached as I take it out. It drips a bit, but I have not had any big spills. I think one time I had to catch some of the water in a bucket. In any case, the spill has never been more severe than when servicing the pump on the head.

In any case, I find that I need access to all sides of the unit to get all 18 screws out, and of course there is material inside no matter how well you try to clear it out before you open it, so you need to be able to dispose of that.

Quote:
Not mentioned above, but we have continuous problems of smell. We have used Raritans Clean Potties but still you can smell a definite odor.
I haven't noticed a smell problem from the electroscan unit.

I sometimes have a smell problem from the water sitting in the bottom of the toilet. To fix that, I pour just a little bit of the green SeaLand head treatment (available from West Marine) into the toilet after flushing. Normally, they suggest something like 8 ounces for 20 gallons or something like that, but I just put a tiny amount -- just enough to turn the water green. The green SeaLand stuff promotes growth of aerobic bacteria, which don't make the smell. I don't use the blue SeaLand stuff.
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Old 24-01-2007, 02:32   #30
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Coot: Thanks for the tip on pumping out the unit before opening. Where I had it originally mounted it was difficult to do. After having been into it several times, I re-positioned the unit for easier maintenance. Our hose to/from also lead upward from the unit, but they are longer runs and therefore have more liquid in them. I'll try pumping the unit now before going it next time.
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