Jabsco Par Max 2.9 prone to failure?

[Franziska]

Hi, quick question, I just tried to switch on my Jabsco Par Max 2.9 freshwater pump. Before winter it was fine.

Took the pump apart and put wires directly from battery to motor (bypassing the pressure switch) It's not turning.
Still I can spin the motor by hand.
No visual damage outside of metal motor housing. And of course the housing of the motor is pressed shut in such a way that I can not open it without damaging it.
Mechanically side of pump is fine.

I wonder how this can happen????

A new one is 98€.

Are these pumps designed to fail after some years?
Should I get something else?

[Franziska]

By the way the pump looks brand new internally-no water ingress into the electric side.

[zboss]

I have no idea what may be wrong with your pump but we have been using par-max equipment for years - I don’t see them being any more or less reliable. Did you test the voltages on the wire you think is supplying power (to see if it actually is)?

Marine stuff that sits unused, fails. The only way to assure that your stuff works when you need it is to always use it and maintain it.

[lamadriver]

Ive had horrible luck with Jabsco pumps. I go through them all the time. They have a one year warranty. Usually they dont even want the pump back - so what does that tell you .

[Franziska]

Thnx.

Of course I checked the voltage. I even wired the motor directly to the 12 battery (which has 13.6v right now.
The boat was on the hard and bone dry inside.
So there is no obvious reason for it to fail.

Thats the reason why I suspect failure by timed design.
2 other smaller 12v pumps in the same circuit run fully normal.

[Franziska]

@lamadriver

Did you find a reasonable and better lasting alternative?
I guess I'm done with Jabsco.

[lamadriver]

Nope , I keep a spare

[Rapanui]

Our first 2.9 lasted about 10 years, we now have a 4 which has done 4 years so far. So not had undue trouble with the FW pumps although they are used hard and long for at least 10 weeks a year, 2 showers and 6 people onboard. Did have both shower bulge pumps , Gulper 220 go after abnormal cold croatian winter, -8 C for several days, so could freezing be a cause?
Have you measured ohms across the motor when you turn by hand?

[Rapanui]

Another thought, do you have a prefilter before the pump? Could be you might have had some debris or timescale dry out and solidify over winter and is mechanically stalling the pump?

[Franziska]

Thanks Rapanui, freezing was not an issue, pump was fully dry.
Mechanic side of pump is flawless.
Have not measured ohms.
Guess I have to buy a new one today as there is a time constraint.

Might try to find a fitting electric motor later for the defective one and keep it as a spare.

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by Franziska

Thanks Rapanui, freezing was not an issue, pump was fully dry.
Mechanic side of pump is flawless.
Have not measured ohms.
Guess I have to buy a new one today as there is a time constraint.

Might try to find a fitting electric motor later for the defective one and keep it as a spare.

I have 6-7 Parmax pumps of various sizes and types on a couple of boats and a love/hate relationship with the pumps. When they work they work well and reliably but I've had problems with three that quit due to leakage. They look pretty well sealed but can be very susceptible to drips and dribbles from outside penetrating into the motor. One was a bilge pump mounted with the pump side up/motor under. Over time some very minor drips and condensation on the outlet house leaked into the motor case and locked it up. One looked just fine externally in the pump end but had corrosion inside the motor end.

All the ones I've had you could completely disassemble without damaging the pump and I've repaired some by taking the motor apart and replacing bearings, cleaning the brushes and similar motor repair issues. One pump a case magnet came loose which I reglued and was back in operation.

[Franziska]

I had mine open, all parts can easily be moved, no rust or corrosion on the electric side either.
Motor was on top, pump mechanic below.

Can't get the press fit housing of the metal casing of the motor inside the pump open with onboard tools (spare the angle grinder).
Unfortunately it's not the old bent thongs which you can pry open any more.

Had to bite the bullet today and bought a new pump due to time constraints. Despite the old one being out of guarantee and being bought abroad they offered to have it analysed and replaced if it's a production issue.
Will see.

Anyway if tge do not replace it I will get it back free of charge and can try to hunt down a fitting electric motor.

Thanks.

[Mike Banks]

I have used these pumps, but the larger ones in the range. The design is fine--the early ones had a pressure set micro switch which was adjustable, and worked best with a pressure resevoir to stop the pump excessive switching. The later ones used a piezo electric circuit and worked fine without a resevoir of pressured air.

All of the ones that I have used have rubbish bearings. Maybe they are not all like that and I just got the exceptions. The bearings are cheap to replace with high-quality stainless steel fully sealed waterproof Japanese bearings of the same size.

My pumps, once the bearings (which lasted a couple of years) had been replaced have now gone on to last about eight years and still counting. I would far rather have paid that twenty bucks or so as an addition to the purchase price, and not had to remove the pump and replace the lousy bearing.

So--check your bearing. The motors give little trouble as long as you mount them correctly. They like to be mounted as designed. The more solid the mounting surface--the quieter they are. With the new quality sealed bearing they run sweetly and quietly. It is cheaper to replace the bearing than buy another pump.