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Old 23-05-2012, 18:38   #1
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Isotherm Fridge not cooling

Hello,

I recently bought a 6 year old cruiser which has a Isotherm CR65 installed topside (there is a larger fridge in the cabin). I connected shore power the other day and turned on both fridge's. The one in the cabin cooled to around 40degrees, but the CR65 only went down to about 55degrees. The CR65 is getting power (both AC and DC), the compressor is on, the fan is on, the evaporator is cold to the touch (so refrigerant is getting to it). I pulled the fridge and found it was sitting in a hard plastic enclosure that surrounded it. The box was warm to the touch near the compressor so I am thinking it is not getting adequate air flow across the coils. To test that theory I left the fridge on the deck and powered on, if it cools to 40 degrees or so by tomorrow then I am confident it is a airflow issue.

The question I have is, why would there be a hard plastic enclosure surrounding the fridge and why would there be no air holes near the compressor? Any guesses? The AC/DC wiring runs out through a hole in the box so I am guessing it came that way from the boat manufacture (Larson). I was initially thinking it could have been installed to protect the fridge from the weather but the entire enclosure/fridge slides into a opening in the hull (there is a sink above the fridge). Any reason why I shouldn't either remove the box completely or cut the back of it off?

Thanks

Tim
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Old 23-05-2012, 20:32   #2
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Re: Isotherm Fridge not cooling

Rule #1 for efficient fridge.

It's all about VENTILATION.

Rule #2, see rule #1.
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Old 24-05-2012, 05:15   #3
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Re: Isotherm Fridge not cooling

You right. I check it this morning and it was at 15 degrees, so the enclosure was the problem. I will end up cutting the enclosure to ensure there is proper ventilation.

Thanks

Tim
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Old 25-05-2012, 10:09   #4
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Re: Isotherm Fridge not cooling

Most of the European RV refrigerators need cabinetry modification when they are installed in a boat. Isothermís CR65 model refrigerator installation instructions require an open air shaft 1 Ĺ deep by width of unit under refrigerator and extended up the back. This L shaped fresh air shaft allows cabin air to be drawn under refrigerator and rise up the back. With cool air passing over shelf where compressor and condenser are process heat can be exhausted out the top behind refrigerator. In addition to Isothermís instructions I would also advise an exhaust fan near the top because if the condenser heat is not removed your installation will never be efficient. On a Trawler I ounce was able to installed a fan in cabinet wall beside condensing unitís shelf. For information on use of fans to improve condenser cooling see FANS section on my web site at http//:www.kollmann-marine.com. Fan item number one would be a simple fan installation with at least a 40 cfm muffin 12 volt fan. Fan would only run when condenser coil was warm.
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